Mrbarry

<img src=https://www.dropbox.com/s/y32fri0wojhzt26/Photo%2001-11-2017%2C%2014%2014%2022.jpg?raw=1/>

Thanks photobucket for ruining the internet!

Thats exactly what it is yes

Lol fair play. Both are cheap these days with China churning out everything on mass. Its unlikely they would do anything to suppress feedback to the supply either way. Mainstream cars these days have far more stable electrical systems than your average kit by far too, especially the questionable quality GBS looms you can buy. Shocking (no pun intended)

Depends what sort of controller the seats use too. If its resistance in series like the wiper speed control it shouldnt cause issue, but if its electronic duty cycle switching it will spike the hell out of the supply. A feed direct from the battery and a suppressor in the leads close to source will smoooooth the problem for the Ecu.

I have a 5.5hp single phase sompressor. 250L Ingersol Rand two stage job. Its not on a plug top however its hard wired into a local isolator. Not good if you want portable but its ideal for mains air pipes around my garage. I used to spray and needed reliable air. Now its just a posh way to inflate tires. I did ask for three phase to my house years ago but red tape and cost put me off lol.

Still for sale. Didnt put any effort into selling it last time. Willing to drop the price to £7k. Thats a bargain!! It hasnt moved a wheel since the original advert. Starts once a month to warm the engine and thats all.

Because it's 10,000 volts and those parts wouldn't insulate against that voltage. In bone dry conditions with rubber soles shoes and those parts you'd still get a pisser, damp shoes and bike it's game over. Having lived in a countryside house with chickens and an electric fence to keep the fox away I can tell you for sure that you don't want to get close to that fence whatever you're wearing lmao. Won't kill you, but f@ck does it make you dance. I've been 2 feet away and not touching it and had a tingle.

What pistons are they? Cast, forged etc?

I wouldn't bother with a catch can unless I was routing the air from the other side back to the inlet manifold. That causes positive crank case ventilation then. Without PCV a catch can is a pointless exercise IMHO. Just fit a breather filter and job done. PCV is common on force induced engines to protect seals and according to some reduce ring flutter. (In the engine not driver seat) I am against routing back to the inlet manifold personally because it just puts dirty air into the clean side and cacks up the manifold and head. It's not however environmentally acceptable to vent to atmosphere apparently lmaooooooo. I would rather risk seals and vent to atmosphere. The only upside to a catch can is that used your engine is suffering blow by you can get oil dripping from breather filter. Never had it happen personally tho.

I have decided to sell my zero before I've even driven it. I bought it two months ago and have only done 200 meters of driving. It has only got 23 miles on the clock from IVA! Spec is high and it has had a lot of money spent on the build. GBS Zero GT with lowered floorpan fitted with Mazda 1.8 twin cam engine. Registered Feb 2015 Spec of Car: This car is wrapped in pearlescant white with the upgraded front wings, powder coated chassis and GBS suspension parts etc etc. 1,8 Mazda engine, gearbox and diff from 1 owner MX5 1998 era, regularly serviced every 3000 miles from new. Car scrapped due to bodywork rot. All other parts are new ATR adjustable shockers New steering rack Emerald ECU GBS bespoke wiring loom GBS throttle bodies New battery. Stainless exhaust with cat fitted 17"alloys with new tyres x 5 including a space saver wheel if required. new discs and pads Smiths flight gauges Fully carpeted New belts and bucket seats. Windscreen and wipers fitted New tonneau cover partially fitted - needs studs fitting yet, New hood and sidescreens supplied with car but still need fitting. High performance aluminium radiator. Lots more but feel free to ask questions. The wrap on the nose cone isn't the best but it's not terrible. The ecu needs a good map, it runs lumpy but has only an IVA map installed at the moment. Asking £8250ovno. Thanks. 07496 160478 Barry

Dogs make more mes than a burgler tho, and I'm yet to hear of anyone needing to walk a burgler or pick up their poo, put one in kennels during holidays, take one to a vet.... Woukdnt be my first call for security. As a pet however yes, if that's your thing. Security is simply a happy extra. CCTV is like a door lock, only there to stop honest people. Those who want to take your things will, no matter what. A face mask and you have no idea who is in that video footage.

I've used them and other designs. All hit and miss. Not having any at all always results in miss tho, sooooo......

Degraded wiring would be high resistance so volts would drop in accordance to ohms law. V/IxR

Would also melt it

i don't want to get rid of the swirlpot all together, just the need for an external one. Because it takes up room in the engine bay, looks a bit rubbish, needs double the fuel lines and needs to pumps, I would rather have a tank mounted pump with internal swirlpot and one feed and return line. Ah fair enough I misunderstood.

Why would you get rid of the swirl pot? That's rather a down grade. The idea of them is to make the fuel deep and narrow so that it doesn't slosh around in corners and cavitation the pump. The head of fuel in the pot also acts as a buffer whilst cornering hard and the low pressure pump is dry.

Had it 2 years and it's the nicest one I've seen. Few subtle mods and the tank painted the same color as the fairings, looks loads better than black. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122430009791

Forgot the super spec wasn't the same as a zero. There is less to adjust. You can still do a lot tho. DIY is an option as said, but DIY with no idea of what your adjustments do isn't ideal. Have a bit of s research online there's a wealth of info on there.

Like I say that's how it should be set up. However if you're happy with it as it is then save the cash. It's not going to fall off the road if you DIY it, it just wont be operating at its best. There is SO much to suspension it's unreal, I know the basics but that's it. I do know getting it sweet isn't easy, but ruining a good set up is as simple as you like! For example as the wheel moves up and down it moves in and out on an arc so effects track. If top and bottom wish bones are different lengths you get a change in camber at the same time, this can be desirable or not depending on aplication. and as you steer camber caster etc alter with tow. This is always desirable. It is effected with ride height. Tyre wear and grip depend on getting this right, as does feedback. This is 1% of what is going on there, it's not just a shock absorber and damper it's science. Also, something that bugs me. Spring = shock absorber Damper = damper. The damper does not absorb shock beyond stichen, the spring absorbs the shock from the undulations inflicted upon the suspension. The damper dampens the oscillations within the shock absorber to return it to a static state. Withbout the damper the car would be a jelly and the tyre would bounce in and off the road like mad. To clarify, the damper is not a shocker as people always call it. It's a damper. Shocker = spring. Lol.

It's not a job for DIY to set up. There are always compromises because you have to corner weight with ballast in the drivers seat, and set up droop and sag, bound, rebound, tow, camber, caster, pre load.... each effects the next. And ride height is what it is once they are all set. If the dampers are the correct length for the car they should sit with the droop etc perfect with the wishbones in their best position. If they are too long you can only sort that out by altering the fixing positions for the dampers on the chassis. It's sure easier than raising turrets on a standard car body tho. If you have no stroke left on the dampers you will end up either bottoming them and bump steering all over the road, or you will have insufficient ellevation and lift a wheel on the slightest of corners or cambers. I started to study suspension a few years ago and quit as a bad job in the end. It's a while science in its self.

You should set the damper up for sag and droop not ride height. Ride height change is simply a result of correct suspension set up. To set ride height with disregard to droop and sag will result in very questionable handling. It can also put stress on the steering joints because the angle of the track rods changed in relation to the uprights as you alter ride height. Not to mention the geometry issues as you put the wishbones into a different part of their arc. Will you notice the difference if you use it to go to the pub on a sunny day? Unlikely. Does it matter on track or for a serious road driver? Unquestionably yes.

Read the small print whoever it is. Went on a European road trip 2 years ago from work and one lad had European AA cover. He managed to spin a shell and hole a piston so it wasn't an easy fix! AA turned up and checked his policy etc, they asked to see his service book and because he didn't have a full history they refused to do a thing. He had to pay around £800 to get trailered home. Tried to claim against AA via small claims and citizens advice but ultimately he didn't have a keg to stand on. They don't advertise the finer points when taking your hard earned!

I did look at hub adapters because they would make life easy. However they have a minimum thickness and the wheels in ford fitment are already the correct offset. I could get Mazda fitment wheels and use the spares I already have but I object to spacers after seeing so many shatter in Motorsport. I have made a jig and will be duel drilling the hubs to accept 100 and 108 wheels directly. I could easily get wheels that fit but I want a specific wheel.