geordie40

Hi Dean I used a 32mm-22mm t piece in bottom hose the a short 22mm-16mm to join to 16mm hose and then another 16mm t to join into bottom of expansion tank. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-T-Piece-Pipe-Connector-3-Way-Alloy-Joiner-for-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-/190895799380 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-Hose-Straight-Reducer-Coupler-Turbo-Intercooler-Heater-Coolant-Pipe-/112248769861 I can get photos if you need

So I was due to take the car out on its first outing of the year across to the Haynes Motor Museum for their Sunday car meet but I awoke to puddles of coolant underneath the car. As I have just re done the coolant system I thought it must just be a slightly loose jubilee clip or something which turned out to be correct, HOWEVER the "simpleton" that is me had put pipework back together with the jubilee clips facing wrong way so it was IMPOSSIBLE to get anything onto them to tighten. Hence the below picture , so as you can imaging I missed the breakfast meet So this time i took off all the jubilee clips and made sure they are easily accessible

Yeah sure do, not to bad though, someone local to me who bought a turbo superspec sent a video of his rattle and it sounded much worse. From reading your posts Alan its nothing to much to worry about an I right?

Well I've finally finished my "Winter" projects, dash and centre console finished in leather, new dash layout, replaced the old SD1 rad with a nice alloy one from "coolexperts", leather armrests on doors, leather door caps, windscreen surround painted black and a nice new "Genuine Momo" steering wheel from wife for birthday. But I now have a slight knock from propshaft when pulling away, Im hoping a good grease up will help as its been sat stationary for 5 months, oh and fuel gauge doesnt read properly (last time I buy cheap Chinese crap!!) so new etb gauges are being discussed, I managed to get a brand new etb rev counter for £80 off ebay!!

+1 for removing the ptfe tape from sender and adaptor, most senders earth through the body of the sender

Hi Phil I have a 13" Mountany, I live about 10 miles from Exeter so can drop it round for you to try. You may find a 14" or 15" will be to big and the wheel will be to close to your legs I have the boss for it as well somewhere. Other pic shows it on the car before I changed Wife just bought me a brand new Momo for my birthday!!

Just got mine from coolex, very well made and good service. http://www.coolexperts.co.uk/product/vw-polo-derived-westfield-aluminium-race-radiator/ They can tailor them to your need as well

Ive passed info on Andy

Is it advertised elsewhere as there is someone on a Facebook kit car group looking for one, ive sent him the link but coz hes not a member he can't see it

This little diagram helped me sort mine out

Both Bob and Alan are right, my alternator was only at 12v till I put a bulb in parallel with the led warning light on my dash rebuild and then hey presto 14v

Thanks for info, worked a treat and dash nearly finished now!!

Thanks Nigel I have the old filament bulbs somewhere

Seen this on kit spares, i know its whole kit but they may have the "T" seal https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1280

Its a type 6 on the picture

Thanks Alan thats exactly how I have it wired at the moment (12v and -ve) will swap to switched 12v and alternator connection and see what happens

Thanks Ian, would be great if someone could draw something up (I'm a visual kinda person) if they have got an led ignition light and it all works.

Ok ive got all of my new dash working with the exception of the alternator/battery light. It all works fine with the old dash (escort cluster) however I can't make it work with the new LED light, it won't come on when I turn the key and start the car but comes on when the alternator begins to working ( volt gauge goes from 12v on tickover then jumps to 14v once I rev the engine). If I measure voltage with ignition on but not started the I get 6v between the chassis and the connector on the alternator but if I measure from battery -ve terminal to alternator I get 12v. Am I missing something obvious. I have read about battery light not going off and to put a tungsten bulb in parallel but I can't get mine to come on until alternator begins charging.

As above, has anybody heard of them or used them? https://www.egauges.co.uk/product/gps-6-gauge-kit-premier-white/

HI Ian Tried it on the "W" connection and still no joy, Im going to put the old sender back in and see if temp gauge works then

Well looks like I may have screwed up or im just being thick!! Got oil pressure,voltmeter and speedo working ok (dash lights as well) but.... It looks like my rev counter may be for a BOAT or DIESEL engine (see photo). If theres a way to make it work please enlighten me Also my temp gauge doesn't move but it maybe I havent given it long enough or the fact that the sender had 2 wires out of it (both red) so Ive just joined them, same as above HELP Nick and Neil DONT BUY UNLESS IT GETS RESOLVED!!

I like the "low" look Shocks are next project I think (upcoming winter), need to finish of dash and rad upgrade and get mine back out on the road

Looks good, I know all about speed humps, took the oil filter of mine last year. Yours looks a bit low at rear end, what shocks did you use?

The previous owner had made it out of mahogany I think so I just covered it in leather. Will send you some pics of before

There was a super spec on eBay as well but wanted £7250 (he can but try!!)