Jonty Wild

Have you added your location to the Community Map (https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/communitymap/) and looked for others who maybe nearby?

Ooh yes they look like the ones. I hadn't noticed that they were different lengths so I will have a quick measure before ordering. Thanks

Good suggestion might work, thanks. The support currently sits between two of the carburettor inlets and is bent outwards to clear the carbs well with no filters. I have bought 4 filters, similar to the left hand one in the image, and they are not far off fitting - three fit perfectly. The Ramair foam might well work but I think would deform against the support, but would probably allow the bonnet to close, but I suspect would eventually dislodge as the bonnet is opened and closed. I see that they do flat foam filters in pairs and they may work without adjusting the bonnet support, I am just not sure about forking out another £70 odd, to find that don't quite do the job and, to be fair the others look better! What I should do I suppose is take that support off and see how much extension is available, maybe it will bend out more. It would be nice though to get another one, in case, and also to bend while the other one is no to make measurement simpler.

A couple of questions relating to a Sierra based 2B Plus: I have no air filters and want to fit some, so I need to adjust this bonnet stay to move it away from the carbs, where can I get a longer, bendable and adjustable version of this bonnet support? Also I need to replace the o/s steering gaiter so I want to buy a pair. I assume it is a Sierra steering rack, but gaiters I see online don't look like this n/s one - particularly the inner end (2nd image of the gaiter). Any ideas, or have they just simplified the design of the replacements to make both the same?

Also almost certainly a lot cheaper to buy one that is reasonably well built and correctly registered. Perhaps get him to create and price up (roughly) a shopping list of the main parts he will need if he builds one, then add in 50 to a 100% - this is my guess others would know better.

And now if you have room in the boot, you can carry the hammer to sort any extra big road bumps🤣 Well done! Hang on, a fist sized gap! I have just checked I can barely get 2 fingers on mine, and slightly less on one side. Should I be worried n . . . . I think I am getting paranoid.

Sorry if I missed this but you have changed the leads?

I will be interested to know how you get on. Just a thought but surely you don't want the front to be too much higher that the back for aerodynamic and stability reasons? As much as they are aerodynamic!

A coil is definitely a good suggestion.

That is very, very interesting thank you.

Higher profile tires must work, assuming sufficient wheel arch clearance is available, but I would love to hear from people who have done this and especially what that has done to handling. Obviously if you do this you need a GPS operated speedometer or its accuracy will be compromised (larger rolling diameter) whether that takes it beyond 10% can be calculated relatively easily. I have no intention of doing this (yet) but the 'B' roads in Lincolnshire are getting evermore bumpy and don't talk to me about the potholes, especially at the road edges!

Any idea why my light stays on for ages after the car has started? It doesn't seem to be causing any problems.

I am sure that you are right . . . . . . so, not knowing the consequences of the wrong person picking it up, do I feel lucky?

Thank you, now that is very interesting! I wonder if changing from 1600 to 2000 might make them think about it a little more.

None found so far. Even Ford don't want to know.

The engine number is there. It is a 205 block which means that it is a 2.0l block so there is no doubt, by no one is so far willing to sign to that effect. I it seems so obvious, I don't really understand why.

When I bought my Robin Hood 2B Plus I was aware that it was registered as a 1600cc, even though it has a 2000cc engine. It was also registered as yellow, when it is in fact orange. I did investigate the possibility of amending the engine size, but likelihood seemed to be that they would require a garage or engineers confirmation that it had been done 'properly'. Although as it has a 205 Pinto block everyone agrees that it is a 2.0l, I have never managed to persuade any garage to put pen to paper to confirm this officially. I am worried that without this I will open up a whole can of worms with the DVLA. It doesn't bother the insurance company that it is 2.0l, so in many senses it doesn't bother me. However, I think that I will get the colour changed, and am wondering about slipping the engine size in as well, hoping it goes under their bureaucracy radar. Anyone done it, got any thoughts, or any experience of falling foul of the DVLA over this?

I agree, always nice to know and it provides other readers with the information they need on what was successful. Must post some other stuff now!

Now fitted, and I no longer need a cushion behind me to drive

Just to finish this off. My car is started and running well. Although the gunge in the fuel filter would not have helped, the main problem turned out to be the battery - which I had some doubts about! - it no longer had enough oomph to turn the engine enough, to get the mechanical pump to drag the fuel through. I have also fitted a none return valve, but too soon to tell if this made any difference yet. There were other useful benefits of this investigation and fitting seat runners: It made me spot the broken earth from the windscreen washer pump (MOT failure) It made me spot how bad a length rubber fuel pipe was - looked fine but was crumbling away - must check any hidden under the car now. Found a really easy to access and available, ignition controlled live, to power an auxiliary socket - yippee, I thought this would be a nightmare.

True!!!

Update. This is what I found in the fuel filter - do other people find this an issue? The car was used last year no problem, the fuel was last year's, and it has a stainless steel tank. I have yet to prove that this is the problem causing no fuel to be drawn through, I suppose it must be, but I could blow through the filter and back in to the tank. I'll test it after the replacement filter and non-return valve have arrived, which should have been today. Still a productive day in the sun, with one set of seat runners installed - would have been two if the previous owner had used a jig to drill the holes rather than semi randomly drilling holes in the floor! Also fixed a fault with the windscreen washer spray that I didn't know I had, until I spotted the lose earth wire!

No problem, one seat was out (passenger - just in case!) so I could measure the centres. It should be captive, because obviously that makes sense . . . . but then do these cars . . . . . ? I will remove one and find out, prepare for some swearing if it is not captive! I have the same worry about the seat belt mountings, so I must have a better look as it would be so much easier to remove the whole lot to fit the slides.

Sorry it is not a Superspec so it would not have come with seats (I expect). The nuts I am talking about are in the seat. The studs will unscrew from the seat, and common sense would say they go to captive nuts, I just have visions of unscrewing them only to find the nuts wander off into the seat somewhere never to be seen again!

I am about to order runners for my RH car seats. Currently my seats are fixed and bolt through the floor, before I remove the current studs coming out of the seats is it safe to assume that they screw into captive nuts and I am not going to end up with nuts floating round the inside of the seats?