Peter Bell

There’s definitely one on the outside of the body that seals to the block, don’t think there is anything internally.

I’ll try to find you!

The amplifiers are pretty sturdy things, but if you’re desperate I’ve a spare or two.

Looks like you still have the spring loaded PCV valve going into the block, which is why it doesn't work. either get/make a straight through adaptor or get the older Cortina baffle unit or poke something through the valve to break it.

Also  as above one of the catch can outlets should be open to atmosphere noy connected back to the cam cover.

There was a wider version of the earlier monocoques, at least it was advertised, the Friar Tuck! 

Looks really good, any more pictures?

Recently upped the idle jets to 17.5

Mine are 1.7 and use std mechanical pump with a malpassi regulator on its lowest setting.

What does the V5 say the car is, and what is the car?

They may be a bit mythical but there's one for sale near me, Kaig if this works ok. Non registered but could be fun as a grass track racer.

Nothing to do with me but I have told him what it is.

Is there something wrong with the sender or is there just a leak at the joint? If the latter and you have the square RH tank then the majority of people had that problem, try the search system on this site and you’ll find a few solutions.

Probably a 5 year old Capri Mk I  1100 I inherited from my father in law. It looked the part, red with black vinyl roof but rotten front wings, and rust appearing in various places. It was so underpowered, brakes were terrible, tiny front disks, didn’t keep it long but can’t remember what happened to it.

KA master cylinders have been used too.

A shorter v belt may solve your problem? Are you sure it’s the alternator or could it be wiring related?

Hi John, I had replied to your message, glad you have found Andy though. 
Technically the stick on ones are usually illegal as they are supposed to be vertical, I knew someone who was done by a ‘keen’ law enforcer but it must be very rare.

I doubt if anyone apart from Richard Stuart will know but a good welder can weld it ok.

The standard set up with the manifold you have is from the pcv to a connection on the inlet manifold which keeps it nice and simple, works very well. Catch tanks are usually needed when a different carb set up is used. There is a good explanation on Dave Andrews old web site, look at water and oil control. http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/
Ps forget about connecting to the cam cover.

Throw it away! It’s not needed.

The Sierra arb is much too stiff for any RH, it prevents the suspension working correctly. Going to tie bars/ compression improves the handling no end.

There are 2 sizes of rear brakes, 8” and 9” with different auto adjusting mechanisms. The QH ones you’re looking at are the 9” but are yours 8”? The early Haynes Sierra manual shows both types.

Whenever I’ve tried adjusting float levels I’ve not noticed any difference in engine running.  

The good news Al is that it’s two more than last year!
Sorry I couldn’t come this year, I had a prior engagement.

Do a search on here there will be a few results, like this one 

As no one has replied to this yet I expect there may be little experience of using poly. The Oem ones seem to last about 30 years, I’m sure that a bit of flex helps in the ever changing geometry of a semi trailing arm arrangement too.

If you give your location there may be someone local who could help?