Peter Bell

140s are possibly too big for a std pinto so if it is running lean then the jets are not the problem. unless they are blocked. Is the fuel level ok in the carb? is the fuel pump working ok? have you tried it on a std. carb? where do you live? Peter.

Once upon a time I 3/4 built a special body on a Ruby chassis and drove it along the handy farm track next door. The brakes were hopeless even though I spent a lot of time trying to set them up and the clutch was either in or out. As you say Terry how people manage to drive them in modern traffic beats me. Peter.

Phew I thought for a minute you were going to complain about the 70 mph limit slowing your Ruby! Peter

Hi Mike, any relation to Jimmy? I bet no one has said that to you before! I have a locking filler cap on the standard Sierra filler neck if that will fit. Peter

I wonder what sort of replies you would have got if you asked a silly question! Peter

Salty why not stick with the diff you have? it will be nicer on motorway runs to have the slightly higher ratios. If you go to this link http://www.rhocar.org/download.php?view.5 on the main website you can sort out your revs/speed/gears. as long as you know how far out the speedo is there is not too much of a problem. Peter.

Hi James the S7 you have was before the days of videos, all that was issued was a thinish book with bad photos in. I haven't seen the videos but I,m sure the ones that John has will be very useful. Peter

I have an RS engine and as far as I know the only difference is the shorter alloy sump, and an alloy bracket for the alternator. Peter

Richard you may find the early Transit hoses to be useful, I use a bottom one as part of an assy similar to that Dave has described. Peter

Try going back to the original rotor arm instead of the spring loaded one. Peter

As you are in Oxfordshire are you related to Oldgit? (Pete) Peter

Sean, can't be of too much help I am afraid as I have the Bosch pointless system but have you disconnected the vacuum advance when you set it at tickover? if not you will get too much advance. The Setting should be about 6° but will probably be fine at 8 or even more. The only reason I can think of running it at 2000 would be to check that the advance system is working. Good luck with the mot! Peter

Glad to see you are enjoying the Spirt of Hoodying James! Peter

Hi Neil, the problem with a low ratio diff is that first gear becomes very 'short' great for towing heavy things but you have to change up quicker. So it may not necessarily improve acceleration times. I have a 3.77 diff and often use 2nd to pull away, first just seems a bit too low. Peter

The geometry will never be quite right on a hood in cornering as the Akerman effect is wrong. It needs to have the same wheelbase as the Sierra. Peter

Don't forget Marcos! their early ones were all wood and the nice 1800 etc ones had wooden chassis. Peter

If the thread is unlubricated a lot of the tightening force is used up by friction in the assembly. When it is lubricated the friction reduces dramatically so the force tightens the thread as opposed to just overcoming the friction. Peter

Quite a few people use the chrome flexible cover from shower attachments if you don't want black or grey. Peter

Hi Alisdair, haven't seen you at the Herts meetings recently, The norm for a rear drive car is just a little toe in, 0 to a couple of degrees is fine. The idea is to have 0° when the car is on the move (ie. as all the bushes flex backwards) Peter.

Gizmo, just a thought, if your tank filler hisses when you open it then apart from the fact you need to vent it, it also means it is not your tank that is leaking cos' it would suck air in if it was! So the leak must be else where. Peter

I think you will find several places selling them at a good price at Donington, if you are going. I hope you will be able to hold onto the car in spite of your situation especially after all that work. Peter BTW why do the long wings not get through the SVA?

If they are the Zimmerframe ones then Robin Hood do them, try the Lolocost van at Doninington. Peter

Paul, the Robin hood stainless 4:1 exhaust manifold was about £120 and silencer £55. It looks from your picture that you have the twin pipe system, there must be a lot of those that have got through the SVA. Try Jims etc. idea first to get it through the test then change it later. Peter

Salty, this is on the main site and shows how the pressure reducer thng works, sorry haven't sorted out the link thing. http://www.rhocar.org/content.php?article.17 Peter

The brake inertia thingy stops the rear brakes from locking up before the fronts so if the fronts are locking then it will not prevent that, if you can't tread lighter on the pedal you could try disconnecting the servo vacuum pipe. Peter