richyb66

Lift off bonnet on mine, but it's hinged down the middle witha long piano hinge so I can also open each side individually. Nose cone also hinges forwards with the bonnet removed so I can access the rad and I used Screwfix lift-off stainless steel hinges so with the nose cone hinged forwards, I can silde it to the side about 40mm and remove it completely from the car. I thought about fixing the bonnet to the nose cone and hinging the whole lot forward but the nose cone is too flimsy to support the weight of the bonnet. As I'd also already fixed the 2 together, I covered the screw holes with a thin push-on rubber edge trim (also stops the bonnet chattering on the nose cone).

Conduit is optional, not compulsory, I can only see one statement regarding wiring in the IVA manual and that's "all electrical cables/wires must be free from chaffing and secured at intervals of at least 300mm unless contained in a secure hollow component".

About time you came in your car isn't it? Forecast looks not to bad tomorrow.

It that case your probably need either a direct feed from the battery (with a split charge relay) or a proper towing harness. If the car wiring is CAN bus (which it probably is), I'd be wary of breaking into the existing wiring willy nilly as it might cause problems.

Should have a 12v power socket on the left hand side of the rear load space. Not sure if it's permanent live though.

Fiesta bias valve maybe? An easy fit. http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=17561&&do=findComment&comment=143381

The trick with throwing cats in the air is to give them a bit of a spin as you throw them, that way they can't twist their body around in flight and therefore don't land on their feet. ...so I've beed told (just in case the RSPCA are reading this).

Standard Sierra Efi - EECIV by the sound of it.

It could still be registered as an MGB because BMH Limited have the rights to use th MG trademark under licence, as described on their website: "British Motor Heritage owns the Heritage trademark together with MOWOG, Nuffield, Standard, Stanpart and Steelcraft marks and the Heritage Motor Parts brand, and is licensed by the trademark owners to use MG, Mini, Austin-Healey, Triumph, Rover, Austin, Morris, Riley, Vanden Plas, Wolseley, Special Tuning and BMC trademarks and logos. Through its approval process, it is responsible for the licensing of vehicle, merchandise and publishing products and outlets using the non-current trademarks and logos originally owned by vehicle manufacturers. It is a Member of the Institute of Vehicle Engineers – SAE UK and Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs." which is probably good enough for the DVLA and a car re-shelled with a BMH body would retain the original registration as it uses "a new chassis or monocoque bodyshell (body and chassis as one unit – monocoque) of the same specification as the original supported by evidence from the dealer or manufacturer (eg receipt)" I think the key phrase is "of the same specification as the original" and obviously supported by a reciept (to prove it is actually all brand new).

In light of recent news events, my avatar Morph would like to categorically deny allegetions that he is, or ever has been, A playdohfile.

Yes it should - can a moderator change it please?

Not exclusively kit related (and I won't be there sadly) but here goes anyway: Autumn Classic at Prescott near Cheltenham. The Paddock will be buzzing with hot rockin' music from The Bravo Boys, show cars, and high octane entertainment. Special performances include stilt walkers, cheerleaders, vegas showgirls and the legendary Demon Drome Wall of Death motorcycle show (the oldest wall of death in existance). The Demon Drome use original 1920's Indian Motorcycles as they perform death defying tricks and stunts on a vertical raceway just inches from your eyes. (All entertainment is included in the admission price). Other attractions: Saturday: Bugatti Owners Club, Austin Healey Sport Speed Championship, Midland Automobile Club, Porsche Club GB, Scimitar and Sabre Speed Championship Sunday: Bugatti Owners', Vintage Sports Car Club, 500 Owners Association, Austin Healey Club, Aston Martins Owners Club, HSCC, Historic BMW, Historic AM, MGCC, TVR Club, Morgan Sports Cars ‘Techniques’ Speed Championship. The Revington TR Register Speed and Paul Matty Sportscars Classic Championships. Paddock display cars are now fully booked, and include: 1934 Ford Hot Rod, 1934 Transam, 1968 Transam, 1934 Model 40 Phaeton UXB 402, Donald Trump's origional stretch Cadillac, a 1969 Cadillac, 1968 Mustang, 57 Chevy, 1939 Hudson, 1939 Plymouth, 1923 Ford T Bucket, 1964 GMC plus many many more! End of Season American-themed Party at the Clubhouse; Saturday evening, featuring 1950's Jukebox favorites. Tickets: £18 for Saturday and £18 Sunday; tickets are per person, under 14 yrs are free (Advance tickets are currently on sale in the online shop priced £15), Camping is available at £5 per person per night payable on the day. More info is here: http://www.prescott-...ctober2011.aspx The Porsche and MG car clubs together with a number of assorted kits and specialised racers will be competing in various championships up the famous Prescott hillclimb course (including our work's MG6). If it stays dry, it should be a good day out.

I think if you look really hard, you'll find it. When I was sorting out my IVA paperwork, I couldn't find the factory reciept with my name on it for the kit I bought part-built. I though it would probably be a green A4 sheet, so I looked really, really hard and guess what, it was on top of my printer all the time.

So's neurosurgery if you know what you're doing. Maybe the OP is aware of his own ability and that's why he's looking for a Premier loom.

Premier make a Sierra based loom that lays out nicely in a 2B. All the harness breakouts have a generous amount of spare wire so you can cut them to suit and connect them to the appropriate components. They're supplied from Spain now and the price is around £150 unless you can find an unused one second hand. You could make your own loom as suggested, either by stripping out a Sierra loom or by using new wire and doing it from scratch. The first option would be cheap, but time consuming as you need to refer to a Sierra wiring diagram to identify the unwanted wires and at the end of the day, you'll have a loom made from 25 year old wire. The second option requires that you're competent enough to lay out the correct circuits using some sort of reference diagram using new wire (of which you'll need a lot, and many different colours). Again, possible but more time consuming and expensive than option 1. Personally, unless you're building on an absolute budget, I'd fork out for the Premier loom and fit that. The instructions are fairly straight forward once you've correctly identified which column stalks you're using and it's a case of matching the coloured wires in the Premier loom with the relevant wires or terminals on the Sierra components (all identified on the Premier instructions). If you can use a soldering iron, that's about all the skill you need. Any other question you've got will be answered here - plenty of us have fitted Premier looms before without major problems. Another option would be to join the club (£15 bargain), post up your location and there's a good chance a member in your area might be prepared to have a look at the car. Maybe the current wiring isn't completely beyond hope and possibly having a bit of help might mean that it's easier to get that working instead (assuming it's got one fitted).

That sounds about right but it depends on what manifold you're using. If it's the tubular 4 branch that comes with the kit then you'll be looking at something like this: http://www.colinusher.info/Robin%20Hood/pedal.html Colin's site has a wealth of information and plenty of photos. It isn't necessarily the definite way to do things (there isn't a definitive way with a 2B) but it will give you a good idea and might help you avoid a few pitfalls. Also, if you're mounting the steering column, you might want to consider this modification to the lower steering column mount that many 2B builders have used. It's a much better solution, safer and more robust: http://nw.rhocar.org/supporting_the_steering_shaft.htm

Pretty sure that Gaz has got it. We thought it might belong to Richard (who's a bit more local) so Gaz was going to get it dropped off. Are coming over to the Malt Shovel next Wednesday?

The Vicky Green loom is no longer available - get one from Premier Wiring instead, good quality and people who have fitted them (myself included) rate them highly. http://www.premierwiring.co.uk/ I think they're made to order now, not sure of the current price but probably under £150.

For now, go here to see the (14) videos from today (and possibly some other random stuff I get up to): http://www.youtube.com/user/richyb66/videos?view=0 if I can be bothered tomorrow, I'll have another crack at embedding them here.

I can't post my videos from today dammit. There appears to be a limit to the number of media files I can post (original post deleted as embedded video didn't work).

I don't think any cars can run before 10 anyway so the first hour will probably be standing around, chatting and drinking tea.

Food? Helmet is a good idea but it's not essential.

Worth a try if it's that expensive I suppose. There's at least 3 different types (blue, grey and pink). Mine was the blue one and they're only around £45

Not sure if the details are still current (latest I have are from 2009 but the Lovelace Louvre Shop (working out of the Bare Bones Rod Shop) in Sunbury on Thames can punch them in existing panels Probably worth a phone call as it's very local. Contact is Paul 07961 162265

Yes, had the same on mine. It's a fairly easy fix - as you say, just replace the cartridge inside with a new one. From memory the two knobs on the front pull off, then there's 4 phillips screws holding the cartrige in. I think it can be fitted several ways (kind of adjustable due to multiple fixing holes), it's pretty obvious when you get it to bits though. On mine, I couldn't actually isolate the water due to the house having been built by idiots (the only cocks in my house seem to the the ones that built it), so I had to swap the cartridge while the water was still turned on. I stood in the shower naked and did it (oo-er missus!) but despite working quickly I still had hot water and cold water everwhere and got soaked. I also had problems getting it to work properly afterwards. It was airlocked and the anti-scold feature was supressing the water flow. If you problems with the water flow afterwards, remove the shower head from the hose (removes some restriction) then run it on full cold first and then gradually build the temperature up from there.