richyb66

That'll be Martin, I'll pm you his phone number.

Given that you've got a pair of new calipers and one new master cylinder, the chances of having 2 faulty calipers seems highly unlikely and I can't see them being completely the wrong calipers for the car. I'm not certain either that blocking off the ports on the master cylinder and getting a decent pedal proves anything if there's 2 seperate pistons in the cylinder. With 3 ports blocked off, either the front or rear circuit could be faulty but you'd still get a decent pedal. With the front ports blocked off and the rear brakes connected you also get a decent pedal, but it doesn't prove that the front circuit isn't faulty. I think I'd be looking at a collapsed seal in the master cylinder or some other fault and I'd be swapping that first or pull it to bits and check the seals.

I suggest he pays £15 and joins the club, got to be money well spent for all this advise and a home visit!!!!

http://nw.rhocar.org/SVA%20lights.htm Remember that distances from the edge of the car are measured from the WIDEST point - most likely the rear arches.

Some nice pictures there, thanks for posting them.

Yes, it still matters. They're not bothered that you're strapped in - if a surface is contactable, it needs to have the correct radius on it.

Like this? http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=25699

By vertical, I meant that the reflector must face squarely to the rear - IVA manual Section 28 RS 9. My tester got a spirit level on mine to check it was vertical!

Indicator side repeaters on the side panel are more than 400mm from the widest point of the car. They'd be better off on the front mudguards. Edge trim on the bonnet vents is probably overkill - they're functional vents so can just have blunt edges, which means thoroughly de-burred with a file.

Exhaust clamp needs turning around on the pipe so that you can't contact the sharp edges on the part that isn't the U clamp. Nut cover and edge trim on rear exhaust mount.

Rear foglamp doesn't look vertical. Front indicators look more than 400mm from the widest point of the car (probably the rear arches). Wing mirrors look too low to get a clear view over the top of the rear arches.

Weather is dry and sunny, see you there.

You know where I am if you need a hand! Good luck with the sale.

Maybe you and mowerman need to do a swap?

It's not fraud, everyone does it and they all test to the same basic rules. The playing field is pretty level for OEMs, it's just that no-one actually drives on the playing field.

Wire clips are for the early Teves caliper the spring steel clips are for the later Teves calipers.I don't think there's anything to choose between the two.

Actually they'll have been done at IDIADA in Spain which is where most European OEM's do their fuel consumption homologation. The figures are derived by actual driving but the OEM's use lots of tricks to get the best figures possible. These include looking at the weather conditions to try and test on days when the wind lightest, testing at night when the air is cooler and denser, optimising tyres to reduce their rolling resistance, adjusting mirror angles to reduce drag etc. As Andy says, the figures are basically unachieveable but they are useful for comparative purposes if you're comparing a number of vehicles and want to see which is likely to be the most economical.

A bit short notice on this one but there's a classic and sports car show at The Cottage Inn, Fillongley near Coventry, 11AM onwards on Sunday 8th September. I haven't got full details yet but if it's the same format as lat year they'll be a BBQ, pig roast and outside bar available. Local member Steve49er it going to try arranging some space in the top field for any RHOCar attendees. More details can be found here: http://cottage85.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/classic-sports-car-show-2014.html and the location details are here: http://www.thecottageinnfillongley.co.uk/findus.html The weather forecast for Sunday looks OK so this could be a good chance to make the most it and get a run out and bite to eat..

Just doing my bit to help out - the same as others have done for me in the past. I think the important thing is that members realise that help is out there if they're struggling and not to be afraid to ask. Everyone has something they can offer their fellow members, even if it's just the loan of some tools or a hand with a " two man job".

This is it here: http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=40380&hl=

Wouldn't a T5 be a better option? It's hardly any bigger than a type 9, the gear lever is in pretty much the same place,it's a third the cost of an uprated type 9 and bellhousings are easily available.

I take it that's the 6 speed Getrag box and you're sick of weedy type 9's? It looks like some of them have an integral bellhousing (6 cylinder cars) but that said, this bloke has fitted one to a cossy YB block by welding on the front end of (presumably ) a T5 bellhousing. Maybe you could do the same thing with the front of an MT75 which would be a cheaper option. http://passionford.com/forum/restorations-rebuilds-and-projects/405850-norwegian-trackday-cosworth-new-part-getrag-420g-6-speed-gearbox.html Post 15 near the very bottom is the relevant bit - the rest of the thread is just interesting reading.

Go with the Sierra wheel for the test and swap to the Mountney without a pad afterwards. Sierra wheel + Sierra column = guaranteed pass

I did wonder if anyone in the club had access to a vaccum forming machine. These would be ideal to vac form (like RC model car bodies) - the tooling is cheap and you could form the 4 parts in one go.

Someone left a note on my car at Donington on Saturday asking about the front wishbone mount covers on my car. Unfortunately I lost the note before I could call them back so if it was anyone on here (who else would be interested?), I made the covers myself from fibreglass. I made a wooden plug which was the size and shape that I wanted the cover to be, laid fibreglass over it to make a female mould and then laid up 4 covers from the mould. Once the parts were moulded, I had to cut holes in them for the wishbone to pass through and to allow clearance as the wishbones moved up and down. They turned out very well but it was time consuming and probably more trouble than it was worth in the long run so before anyone else asks - no, I don't want to make any more.