megadodo

That's just cheating! Does it have a brewery?

"My garage has a brewery in it. " has to be the winner

Well done, just be careful out there, remember there are lots of "nutters" around no matter how carefully you drive the bike! Do your IAM as soon as you can, you'll be amazed at what you DON't know about riding a bike!

I have the small outdoor 3 layer one from CBS. It fits the 2b well and seems well made and looks hard wearing.

I'm sorry no one here has seen it or knows about it. I'm sure they would have replied if they did! Apart from the odd "tiff" we are a friendly bunch on here. Best of luck with your quest.

When someone comes up with an idea that has the potential to better than mine (I'm still very competitive) I instinctively try and find a fault with it (you could argue that I'm just trying to avoid potential problems and my aim is altruistic????). I'm not proud of it but I'm too old for change! But I will admit defeat (eventually) if the idea is better, which yours was! Damn you!

I like it, and I can't think of any issues with it either (sorry, naturally sceptical of anything out of left field)! Saves the cost of a relay as well (I'm naturally tight as well as sceptical).

You could, but perhaps a neater solution would be to use the starter signal to throw a relay that breaks the fan circuit. As soon as you stop cranking the fan will cut back in again. It's easy to do but when you bring your car over to show it off I could do it for you if you want?

While your in Halfords, do they still sell those "go faster" stripes?

Better late than never from me, well done , I missed that your's had passed! We'll have to go for a blast round the area at some point!

Check your battery earths as well. One big fat lead from the battery to the engine block and another lead from the battery to the chassis. The engine earth from the battery and the starter positive should be the same diameter. I've lots of "slow" starters fixed by proper earthing. A new battery may only mask the problem.

Just to be picky, they aren't live! They are the switched earth wires, just in case anyone tries to check for +12 volts! Yours, Mr Pedant

Has the master cylinder been rebuilt or is it straight out of a donor? If out of the donor then it may be shot (especially if it has been lying around not used for a while) and if rebuilt are the seals the right way round? One should be facing the "wrong" way to all the others. I made that mistake when rebuilding mine having made the assumption they should all face the same way on both pistons and couldn't get any sort of pedal feel.!

I take it you are talking about the rears? If so then the upper mounts slide into the bottom of the roll tube and the the lower mounts go bang in the middle of the spring seat on the swinging arm so the the action of the coil overs is nearly vertical.

My donor sierra came with 1 ignition key only. I looked at a new key from ford at the better part of £100! Then I looked at a key cutting option but lots of people said they would do it for around £40 but with no guarantees that the new key would work. So on Monday I ordered one of Kitspares new barrels with 2 keys for around £13 quid plus postage. Yesterday it arrived and was fitted in 10 minutes so now I have a spare key. Highly recommended for those of you with only 1 key!

I can already hear the whining sound coming from that 'charger at full chat Tim! Will you need to run bigger injectors?

When things turn up at my house I get asked if they are for her camper van! If yes then I get asked when are they going to be fitted, if no I get asked how much they cost me?????

If you can get the seals changed then go for it. Just make sure they are the correct specification and not some cheap alternative. How much you will save over a complete re-con unit though is unknown to me?

Nothing wrong with copper brake lines if they are the correct specification of course, and they don't rust like steel lines! If you have any doubts about their condition or specification (a new set is hardly expensive) then change them but I would be surprised if any kit car uses steel brake lines!

I think you have solved most of the issue with the gasket! One of the chaps on this forum fitted a carb inlet gasket and it caused an air leak and I'm sure the injector spray pattern will be partially blocked. Don't "swap" the AFM until you have tried it with the correct gasket. Just to make clear, the filler cap breather pipe should go in to the main inlet air intake pipe between the AFM and the inlet manifold.

Pinto EFI throttle vanes are known for being dirty and sticking slightly open. Give the whole outside of the vane and the inlet manifold mating face (the bit the vane closes on) a good clean. Also ensure that the adjusting screw has not been used to hold the vane open (mine was and gave the symptoms you have!) Check the idle control valve is functioning and has no airleaks. Check that there are no air leaks between the AFM and the inlet manifold. Also check that your throttle cable is allowing the vane to close fully. The timing is critical but it sounds like you know what to do there. There are no other adjustments to make but you may have a faulty AFM (air flow meter). It may be a case of trying known working AFM and idle control valve to eliminate them as the cause. Have you used the correct EFI inlet manifold gasket? HTH

Here's mine. 3m carbon wrap, dead easy to do and hides a lot! http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy7/megadodo/Megadodos%202B%20plus/DSCF3065.jpg

Yes you can use the coil positive supply and the starter wire can be picked up anywhere between the ignition barrel and the starter motor. The immobiliser wires should be capable of being wired either way round!

Yes, starter and coil can be done but they are easy to bypass as both are under the bonnet. Which ever wire you choose to cut can just be snipped and connected to the 2 wires from the immobiliser for each circuit. I always tried to make sure that each break was well hidden and that the immobiliser wires exited the oe loom well away from where the break was made.