megadodo

That's a tough one. I'm not sure there can be a resolution to an entrenched view like that, are there any written contracts that he has broken by issuing this ultimatum or has it always been by word of mouth? Is there a way you could still do the work and him not know?

E36 coupé, this me on the forum http://www.e36coupe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=195412 Pistons were fine, the inner lip between the piston seal and the dust cover seal were the only problems (heavy rust) causing sticking caliper, this is fixed, its just this damn judder! I'll be under the car tomorrow for a look and I'll check for run out and dodgy wishbone mounts.

Beemer 318is, calipers have been overhauled with new seals and the wishbone rear bushes have been polyflexed but your right, I should check the wishbones for movement.

Come on you wizards of all things mechanical, I need some ideas. Given that I'm NOT king of the late breakers I do seem to be plagued by brake judder issues with what ever car I drive lately although on the 2B this seems to be reducing every time I take her out for a spin. My tin top has the real issue though. I have brake judder, symptomatic of warped disk but it is inconsistent. Some days I don't get it and some days I do? I can "trigger" it by sudden firm braking usually when some artic pulls out on me on the A14 and I would bet my life that a disk is badly warped (they are new disks this year), but under normal pressure nothing. Sometime I can feel it under very light pressure but if I build the pressure slowly it goes away!? Clearly I need to measure the run out but surely if the disk/s were warped the problem would be present under all conditions and circumstances?

Trust you guys to look at things "sideways"!

If the heater was turned to cold (assuming you had one) would that not be the same as blocking the pipe anyway? Or is there not a valve in the system? I blame the builder myself ! Of course I have never not tightened up a jubilee clip properly to slowly loose a lot of coolant out of the bottom pipe!

I got my sender and adaptors from Merlin Motorsport. I'm sure they'll be able to help

My "man cave" I only bought the house 'cos it had a double garage. I have extended it to give a work room at the back, electrics, lots of sockets and lights, compressed air, heating, CD, Radio, water and although I have never used it, a lathe. I painted floor an d have run a cable for a network point although wi-fi coverage from the house is quite good. I have a small plumbed in sink as well. Just need a bog and a bed and she can kick me out completely! But no brewery.....yet!

That's just cheating! Does it have a brewery?

"My garage has a brewery in it. " has to be the winner

Well done, just be careful out there, remember there are lots of "nutters" around no matter how carefully you drive the bike! Do your IAM as soon as you can, you'll be amazed at what you DON't know about riding a bike!

I have the small outdoor 3 layer one from CBS. It fits the 2b well and seems well made and looks hard wearing.

I'm sorry no one here has seen it or knows about it. I'm sure they would have replied if they did! Apart from the odd "tiff" we are a friendly bunch on here. Best of luck with your quest.

When someone comes up with an idea that has the potential to better than mine (I'm still very competitive) I instinctively try and find a fault with it (you could argue that I'm just trying to avoid potential problems and my aim is altruistic????). I'm not proud of it but I'm too old for change! But I will admit defeat (eventually) if the idea is better, which yours was! Damn you!

I like it, and I can't think of any issues with it either (sorry, naturally sceptical of anything out of left field)! Saves the cost of a relay as well (I'm naturally tight as well as sceptical).

You could, but perhaps a neater solution would be to use the starter signal to throw a relay that breaks the fan circuit. As soon as you stop cranking the fan will cut back in again. It's easy to do but when you bring your car over to show it off I could do it for you if you want?

While your in Halfords, do they still sell those "go faster" stripes?

Better late than never from me, well done , I missed that your's had passed! We'll have to go for a blast round the area at some point!

Check your battery earths as well. One big fat lead from the battery to the engine block and another lead from the battery to the chassis. The engine earth from the battery and the starter positive should be the same diameter. I've lots of "slow" starters fixed by proper earthing. A new battery may only mask the problem.

Just to be picky, they aren't live! They are the switched earth wires, just in case anyone tries to check for +12 volts! Yours, Mr Pedant

Has the master cylinder been rebuilt or is it straight out of a donor? If out of the donor then it may be shot (especially if it has been lying around not used for a while) and if rebuilt are the seals the right way round? One should be facing the "wrong" way to all the others. I made that mistake when rebuilding mine having made the assumption they should all face the same way on both pistons and couldn't get any sort of pedal feel.!

I take it you are talking about the rears? If so then the upper mounts slide into the bottom of the roll tube and the the lower mounts go bang in the middle of the spring seat on the swinging arm so the the action of the coil overs is nearly vertical.

My donor sierra came with 1 ignition key only. I looked at a new key from ford at the better part of £100! Then I looked at a key cutting option but lots of people said they would do it for around £40 but with no guarantees that the new key would work. So on Monday I ordered one of Kitspares new barrels with 2 keys for around £13 quid plus postage. Yesterday it arrived and was fitted in 10 minutes so now I have a spare key. Highly recommended for those of you with only 1 key!

I can already hear the whining sound coming from that 'charger at full chat Tim! Will you need to run bigger injectors?