fry61

Isn't it the faster the air flow the lower the pressure asthe air travels further it must be thinner therefore less pressure

Measure the major diameter (crest) of the threads & the number of crests per ?? length (in mm) & I'll work it out & get back to you,if that's any help.

If the drive-lines must be parallel what's the point of the U/J's---also if the bearings never move in their housings what about "brinelling" of the bearing housing?

On the 2B+ which we are building the front of both upper & lower wishbone are a good fit in the box section,so no possibility to adjust fore & aft. So my question is -- does the wheel offset being more (or less) help with self centering? Or is this totally missing the point & I should go stand in the corner?

Let me know what size rubber hose you be running to your servo,then I will hopefully be able to supply a suitable union & the loan of the correct tap.

We will be waiting in the lay-by just before Wilton roundabout at 09.30. Is any-one else going? Haynes is a car nut heaven.

Have a lok at Car Builder Solutions web site.

Tap size minus tap pitch = tapping drill required therefore no searching for your tap chart -- which is never where you (thought you) left it.

Been searching for similar profile for ages; the only one that came close was 3/4 round for protection on pallet racking, but miles too big.

We have 30 bodies booked in so far --- looking for replies from any more Hoods & friends who may wish to come --- especially Mac801123--Rob West--& the sparky from near Andover (who was bringing a bonfire barrel)--Vic & Wendy --- you're all welcome to come along on yer tod or with a partner/friend ---we just need to know numbers so we get enough burgers & bangers --- we promise it won't SNOW this year --- or blow a gale & break the tent pole. Regards Bob & Sylvia.

Are you excused having a horn? Folk can smell you coming!!! Jelosy comes up with the worst jokes!!

Well done,Rob, bring it for one of it's first runs to our Easter Saturday BBQ,so we can all admire your handiwork,regards Bob.

Drill a series of 6mm holes along the line where you need to bend the sheet steel (about 1 every 20mm) this will enable you to bend it more easily but still leave plenty of strength to beef-up the hand-brake. Sorry,can't help with Q2.

Have seen on E-bay --"chrome" blanks for mini wiper arm spindles ; under I think the heading "Windscreens" or how about blank plates for domestic sink unit taps .

Give me a shout if WAX-ON can't help--may be 1 lurking in the workshop loft.

If you haven't used the 2 rear-most mounts on the diff (M12 blind tappings?) how about a torque reaction bar ( or tube) towards the rear of your car; & sleeve-down the elongated holes at the front (if access is possible) by bolting on a plate with a flange welded on to match the oversize in the ally. But going back to an old post of mine --there is no where on your drive train for shock load to be absorbed--it's all metal to metal--gears,prop,bearings,casing, chassis;but then that's my particular bee & lots on here don't agree,regards Bob.

You can buy pea-gravel stuck to butyl rubber (may-be PVC) on the roll from aquatic garden centres,but it's rather expensive-- grass right to the waters edge is cheap but takes for-ever--the ducks that fly in see it as dinner at beak height. The liner on our pond is black so not so noticable;do you have an over-skirt over the edge of your liner going down into the water about 18" ? If not the sunlight will degrade your liner where it's not protected by water or rock cover.

Lovely clean carpet;what you got in the Sitting Room? Concrete!!!!

Hi, I need a short piece (about 75-80mm) of 10mm solid ali bar;could be a little larger as I have a lathe. Cash or bacon buttie waiting.

RE:- Post 9 Stainless rivnuts are available--I'm using M4 for removeable panels--they are difficult to clinch--would not like to set bigger!!

Ball-joint locking--I made a lock washer (elongated tear-drop) to fit under the ball-joint & steel rivetted the small end to the wish-bone;then with the joint done up murder tight, knocked up the washer into the castillations around the ball.

We will be there as usual--the last lot of snow has nearly gone!!

There seems to be a lot of these type of probs. about---see Mac's post.

Thanks Carole (or I n) seems I don't need to buy a new screen now--the Commodore 64 will be pleased;still having trouble with me vowels;must be me age.

If it's single concrete block--consider this as the inner skin--batten the outside say 2" thick--this will allow for some insulation--then a waterproof but breathing membrane (Tyvec ?) then ship-lap. Give the ship-lap a coat of Cuprinol or similar every 3 years or when the wood starts to turn silvery. Should keep you warm & dry. (Some of your present probs could be condensation--the insulation will help here & reduce your heating requirements--go for thicker batten & insulation if you have the room) Other-wise if it's a big garage do the above on the inside--membrane first on the walls--this is what I did with my 'shop but with 4" insulation on 4 x2 then 8ft x4ft x3/4" shuttering ply--get so warm in the afternoon I have to "work" with the door open.