For Sale --a sheet of 304 Mirror finish S/steel--0.7mm thick--4ft x 2ft.--£20.00 plus carriage (willing to meet or pass on via other members if possible to save carriage) Other sizes available--price pro-rata.
Before you cook any more; wire a big lamp (or two) between battery positive & your cables that are supposed to connect to same--then if you get a smoke producing short ;it won't be ;'cos the lamps will glow. Makes everything go slow as well, which helps this old 'art.
My EFI pump had 15mm inlet,which is same as 15mm copper tube,so removed "swelling" on end of pipe & fitted 15/8 compression pipe fitting(some soldering involved--but NOT when on the pump) then standard fuel filter & Gates hoses.
I'm so glad I fitted a CVH engine-- with exhaust on the "wrong" side my steering coluum goes straight to the rack & so my steering wheel is square across the car--(smug at the moment) regards Bob.
About 500 or there-abouts--never bothered with jacks--just lift a corner & get your mate to slide in a block of wood a bit sharpish--but that was near 50 years ago--OMG--I am OLD.
Joel,sorry,haven't been in the work-shop this week-end (fine weather = work in garden clearing winter damage) do you still want the wish-bone measurements? Your latest post would give a very soft ride as the load is able to compress the spring more easily (I think?)
Smack that man with a stick of soggy rhubarb--bricks are only load bearing when they have a mortar bed in between to spread the load--if you're going the trad.route use blocks of wood;just make sure base dimensions are greater than height--WOOD=GOOD.
Come-on now lads; if you can build a car you can make these--a few dozen M of 25mm angle & a stick welder--not sure about your weld? Try breaking some test welds-if it bends before it breaks it's O.K--design so that loads compress ramps not shear or stretch & triangulate to ensure ridgidity.
What the hell did he mean--ALL our panels are pop-riveted--mine are all S/steel-mandrel & stem--how else did he think panels should be fixed to chassis?
Joel, I've got my 2B+ up to rolling/running chassis stage if you can tell me what measurements to take from where I'll be pleased to do same. Please bear in mind that I need a big KISS factor in the instructions.
You need to bear in mind that "sometimes" (nearly always) the hole in the Sierra trailing arm does not fall in line with the roll bar -- so the damper is being twisted off line -- I welded lugs into the arm, offset from the central hole to avoid this problem.
Would be interested in purchasing new improved wishbones--sorry can't help on the technical side--an on-line tutorial on suspension parameters would help my understanding if any-one wishes to talk to the bone-heads like me.
From other posts on here you may need to register an engine change to the Sierra in order to get an age plate for your RH--unless you're going diesel 7!!!
On our 2B I've drilled & tapped the wish-bones at mid point so the grease goes in between the nylon bushes--makes sure the steel tube/nylon mating faces are lubricated & prevents the possibility of water creeping in & rusting the tubes--which would give a less than smooth turning action,regards Bob.