Jamiep

I personally have learnt alot from this forum, most people keep it simple and explain even if its been mentioned before. Other forums I've been on just scream "search" at you and then go totally off topic slagging of the 'newbies' that blight their existance. Not everybody knows the correct terms so half the time search for the wrong thing.....rant over....relax.

Thanks for that, the car doesn't smoke which is why I thought it was running lean rather then over fueling to start with causing pinking and I was getting 30+ mpg which was better then my 2.0t Audi the oil level never seamed to change although it appears I used the wrong stuff for a couple hundred miles. All the cylinders are the same. Judging by the cam the engine internals look in good nick after a refurb in 02 with very little miles done since then. Is Redex similar to 10K boost? As I have used that to good effect on rovers in the past but they was injected. Only problem I have now is putting half the car back together to run again as I had to strip rad and cooling pipes off to get to bottom pulley bolt to turn the cam. As I need a new rocker cover gasket (last one appeared glued in place with sealant) is it best to get single one or full set are there any to avoid as known duffers? Would having a 1.6 carb and manifold cause any issues on a 2l as the one I have is 28/30 DFTH 2A01 which Haynes says is for 1.6? Thanks for the help, I'm learning all the time

Still having problems with the engine, I changed oil again to 20w50 mineral as suggested, changed plugs/ leads cap etc one at a time using the old ones which I have kept hold of and the car ran better with all the new stuff but the pinking (or what sounds like pinking) is still there. I've checked timing and tried tuning by ear but it made no difference. finally bit the bullet and took off the rocker cover after suggestion that it may be tappets, but they where all spot on! at .2mm inlet and .25mm exhaust and the cam looks new. One thing I not sure of, should I be able to turn the engine by hand easily with the plugs in? I was under the impression it would be very difficult. Also I get hissing from cylinders 3,4 when exhaust valves open but not 1,2 when turning by hand, could this mean little/no compression ie head gasket failure? Final info for you. After working on the cay in daylight I noticed this: the photo above is taken looking in through the spark plug hole at the top of the cylinder, it looks very sooty. could this be overheating and causing pre-ignition?

Mines a precast concrete 24' long by 11' with 8' door, it was the biggest standard size I could use without planning. Realy glad I got the bigger door as I see quite alot of people near me having to fold mirrors in every time the drive in, must be a real pain. Just wish mine wasnt full of junk so I could move around easier

Hull's an absolute nightmare at the minute. The council keeps saying report it and we'll fix within x hours, which to their credit they are trying to do but as soon as they fill one anougher apears 10 foot away! Apparently the floods of 2007 caused major underlying damage in this area which is now rearing its ugly head due to frost under the top surface. Basically were screwed! I don't think is coincidence tough that where ever theres a speed bump (Hull has most in the country apparently) there are huge pot holes around them. typical Hull road

I'm in, Ghost of the past is my team.

Thanks for all the info, this is quite an old thread now, I originaly intended to fit ducting to use the heater to heat the car and demist the window but it turns out just having the matrix there pretty much does that anyway. I picked up one of the fiesta hcv's with the latest part number new off fleebay but have not got round to fitting yet. I think its about half way down my A4 list of jobs to do before summer (if we get one).

I'm after a set on intertrims aswell but with blue piping, if my car was yellow i'd have bitten that guys hand off. I found them much more supportive then the gbs ones I tried at one of the shows.

how come the police can use them on a footpath when joe public can't, not allowed on the road either as no tax mot or insurance! same as electric scooters the kids can get, can only be used on private land get them on mini motos, that would be funny!

Why? It would be a help if I can as its very cramped down there, just changed the pump and the part I was supplied apparently superseded the option of 2 some time ago. Looks nothing like the original but the plunger sticks out the same distance and travels the same distance so stuck it on (using the original spacer, about 10mm i think it was) and it fired up fine. Not had chance to take the car out yet though so will see if it solves my problem.

Its a shame it comes to this but some people are stupid, plain and simple, they need everything written down so they don't have the extra person there just to tell them how to do it. Once something is written down it becomes a standard which then gets adopted by others until it becomes a national standard which then becomes law. Working on and around Gas terminals you kind of see why some rules have been brought in and recently in Hull a man fell from a ladder and was killed whilst working on a council house. Not sure why you can't use wooden ladders though, scaffolders use them and there bl@@dy long too! all I can think of is weight.

just had a dig around in the engine bay and my fuel pump matches this one from the haynes: and my vapour seperator matches this one which it says if from 1985: so hopefully I'll get the right one £45 seems steep though, think i'll stick to partern part, seen them from as little as £10 new. thanks for the answers. Regards, Jamie

Here goes don't laugh, Am I correct in thinking the pinto 205 block was used from 1985? if so the fuel pump I require will be 85> not 82-85. Just want to double check as QUINTON HAZELL list QFP88 for 82-85 and QFP114 for 85> and I want to send the wife shopping tomorrow! whats the difference by the way, did the early ones have the removable filter? Regards, Jamie

wow, never actualy looked to see how much pipebenders are. The springs are a couple of pounds or you can get these screwfix link

Don't forget, not everywhere has the time/ equipment to do as a guvy. Where I used to work if it was a small job like that the boss would ask one of the guys if they wanted to deal with it in their time and then they could have the cash because to put it through the company meant a minimum of £40 to £50 an hour to cover overheads extra. We certainly never had the gear to bend small bore light gauge tubing but a couple of the guys would have probably had their own gear at home. You've just got to ask around. like you say though every bit of work helps and many jobs can start as a guvy then next time they come it may be for major work!

thanks for that, mines ok then, as its same as shown.

Hello again, when looking down onto the distributor cap. Which is lead No.1 if: clockwise, 'A' is closest to timing pulley 'B' is closest to the engine 'C' is furthest away from timing pulley 'D' is furthest away from engine The reason I ask is currently my engine only runs if I have No.1 at position 'C' with firing order 1,3,4,2. When I fire the strobe gun at the bottom pulley I don't see any timing marks until I turn the dial to 60°. There is a line scribed on the top lip of the distributor which appears to be in line with my current No.1 lead also. Have I got something the wrong way round? I've never touched the distributor since having the car and it has run quite well during the summer. I read and reread the Haynes manual but all it seems to say is 'note how it is at present then replace in the same order' great! Help! Thanks Jamie

thanks for the replies, first off the plugs, cap, arm and leads (magnecor) are all new within the last couple of weeks, also flushed and changed the oil although now its mentioned I used a different grade (5w30) to that I've just looked up (10w30 to 20w50 or 10w40) as I was told it was fine for winter use I think he said maybe should have checked that story first. could this be the cause of the oily plugs assuming it must be too thin As for timing I don't have a strobe so not sure if could really check easily although I've seen one in halfords for £40 Halfords link are they any good? The car doesn't smoke when stood still but cant really see a lot when running as I've been driving with wet gear on might try a (very) cold run tomorrow, probably on the way to get some more oil If it is unsuitable oil will it have caused any damage, I've done maybe 30 miles over a couple of outings if that? edit: just looked back through old MOT's and the cars done less the 2k miles from 2002 until I got it in May 09, I've done 1k at most.

Hi all, latest problem After giving the car a service I gave it a run out yesterday and it felt poorly! It fired up the best it ever has and idled really well without stalling for a change, but when driving was making a noise similar to rattling a spray can and would splutter if I tried to accelerate out of a constant speed, ie doing 30mph and try to accelerate to 40, it didn't do it from a standing start though. is this 'pinking'? Now this may not be connected to my problem but thought I'd mention it just in case. When I changed the HT leads the other week I noticed No.4 plug was loose. Retightened best I could as it is right in line with the brake servo, then checked the other which where all tight. Just been to investigate the poor running I had yesterday and discovered plug 2 was loose? so took them all out to look at them and discovered they are oily. Bit of history and spec of the car: 2ltr pinto SOHC with 205 block and running on carb (not sure which type) I bought the car this summer after it had sat in a friends garage for about 3 years untouched, sailed through its MOT without a hitch. Before that it was rarely driven due to the owners’ illness. I have found a receipt from 19/8/02 for full recon engine plus gaskets from a local engine company but doesn't mention if its ever had the head converted to unleaded! The car was run on unleaded by the previous owner and I've been running on BP ultimate until the last couple of tanks due to it being unavailable. It’s probably something really simple.....or its going to cost me shed loads! Help please. Regards, Jamie

Cheers Daz I'll check that out.

My biggest gripe is bus lanes leading up to a junction with a right only lane, people see the sign for right only ahead and start pulling into the bus lane which has a domino effect as everyone behind does the same. I stay on the outside untill the bus lane ends and nobody lets me back in AAAAAAaaaargh! even the busses have started going up the outside then forcing their way in for the stop at the end of the lane, its rediculous..........breath.

Evening all, Does anybody have any suggestions as to removing fine rust staining from the GBSC vinyl roof. I was a bit of a plank and used a grinder to smooth of a Iron casting in the garage, totally forgetting to move the car first as it was very wet outside. Came back to the car 4 days later and the whole thing was orange Cleaned the car easy enough as its stainless but the roof is a problem. I've been using a autoglym leather cleaner and a tooth brush but its not getting it all off, any ideas? Regards, Jamie.

Not mine and not connection to me but thought it might intrest someone. mondeo v6 st24 engine, listed as very good engine. £120 link to stuff4sale Hull very tempted myself but don't think I would ever have time to fit it.

Never really had a problem, don't like to leave it too long though. Could really do with a snap off steering wheel. Once found a cat curled up asleep in the passenger seat, but it was mine so can't complain.

part 2 After fixing most of the hood down I looked at the door position and found I had to cut the windscreen pillars away in order for them to fit. After trimming the pillar down I put the door in position and marked with tape where needed adjusting then took off again and 'Beat with a big hammer'...I mean gently adjusted. Once I was happy with the doors I finished the roof fixings using turn buckles nearest the door for i bit more strength. have been using it in rain and snow and it seems to work. p.s. excuse the mess in the garage I'm in the middle of trying to find some leaks Nearly forgot, the smaller bar at the back goes into the Velcro strap on the hood and I tension the front bar back to the roll bar with light luggage straps.