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That looks like it is EFI therefore will certainly have an ECU.

I think that ctrl/cmd means either depending on keyboard. Apple uses cmd windows uses ctrl So this means press and hold ctrl or cmd then press v this is a standard short cut for paste when editing

That is not a distributor but a coil pack. It actually contains 2 seperate coils each of which sparks 2 plugs. So aproaching TDC on cylinders 1 & 4 the first coil is triggered and sparks appear in both cylinders one of which is near the end of its exhaust stroke and so the spark does nothing, the other cylinder is near the end of its compression stroke and starts the power stroke. The next time these 2 cylinders are in this position it again fires. This is redundant spark. The other coil does the same for cylinders 2&3. The ECU uses a pickup on the front of the engine to tell it when and how fast the engine is running to trigger the sparks at the right time. Hope that this helps.

Hey I can still be Mr Numpty after 50 years messing around with cars. You are band fron using my alternative name!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1700 is a bored out Xflow Pinto is a totaly diferent engine, there never was a 1700 pinto. The pinto was made in 4 sizes 1300 (very rare), 1600 (a couple of variations), 1800 and 2000. Some aftermarket shops bore out the pinto to 2100. So you need a new manifold.

Do I understand that you have the mechanical speedo and cable? Your comment about converting to mechanical makes me think that you do. With the ford gearbox in the ford car the mechanical cable was able to exit the gearbox in a slight curve all the way to the speedo and lasted forever. Puttung the gearbox in (rather than mainly under) the transmission tunnel means that the cable has to take a very sharp bend leaving the gearbox and always snaps within the first few miles. The answere is to cut a hole in the side of the transmision tunnel and guide the cable along the floor inside the car and up and round the side of the car before comeing up under the dash and into the speedo without any sharp turns.

Most modern cars take a bit of wake up current as the various computers boot up after connecting the battery. It will take some time to see what the shut down drain is after connecting the ammeter. This could work provided you remember to wait for the reading to settle.

Rover had a tie up with Honda. In Japan the switches are this way round so the could be something like Jap spec Honda accord shipped over in error and sold bulk (cheep) to RHE.

A good switch will only have less than 0.1V drop. First thing is to always measure with the same earth point, I when doing this use the battery negative with a crock clip on the terminal and a long lead to the meter. The voltage drop you are seeing is large and probably the result of oxide buildup on the switch contacts. This happens to all unsealed switches over time. Properly designed switches self clean during operation. Maplin sell aerosols of switch cleaner that you spray into the switch as you operate the switch which can help and is cheaper than a new switch. Most switches are not designed to come appart but with care they can be dismantled and the contact surfaces directly cleaned with very fine abrasive, only try this if you are confident that you can put it back together

Rad supplied with my Exmo kit was mark 5 cortina.

My 1996 exmo is correctly registered as a robin hood and retained the doner registration. In the pre SVA/IVA days there was no fixed way for registering kit cars and it was relativly comon to retain doner reg

if it is a steel sump try hitting it with the ball of a ball pien hammer round the pickup marks to create feed channels. Simple untill you hit to many sleeping policemen. So raise front suspension.

When I built my exmo there were 2 sets of four holes and a stainless angle purpose as cb750 says

Brake fluid sensor has 3 connections. 1 is GND the other 2 are connected together in the switch. Correct wireing is switched fused power to light. Light to one of the fluid level common connections and the other common conection to the handbrake switch which connects to GND. So you test the brake fluid low warning light every time you use the handbrake.

I am guessing that this is one on the many Blacktop Zetec engines that Ford over produced before the emissions regs changed. They are still being sold new around £700 as only kit cars can use them and thus they are about half the price they would have been otherwise. Thus the spec will be the same as the very last production zetecs. ECU will be whatever the installer favored. Carbs may have been fitted in place of the injection system. There are a few threads on fitting zetecs on this site.

See my post above. The bearing supplyed is still good after 75000 miles. The butress split, no repair kit has ever been offered as the repair is so simple. You need a spreader plate under the butress I used a plate 10mm thick (material I had available 5mm would be good) the internal width of the butress and about 100mm in the length of the butress with a central hole able to take the strut rod.

Lets face it most engines work better the hotter they get. If the coolant stays in thats all that matters.

There is the tail about the guy who welded his own tank. He had seen some one useing a vac to clear the fumes. So he stuck the hose of his vac into the tank to suck out the fumes switched on...BANG! It was pointed out in A&E that some old vacs could be used to blow as well as suck.

Contact Burton power? www.burtonpower.com

Been running a 1983 leaded head in a 2.0 pinto since leaded disapeared and not had any problems. Done about 45,000 miles in that time. There appears to be no consistancy in these heads

my reaction is either a fuse for main beam or the dip switch needs spraying with switch cleaner (obtain from maplins)

I always have had problems with the durability of hammerite. My expeiance is that it goes brittle with age and then the slightest knock and it chipped

If the loom is modified from a ford doner loom dont forget that there is a hidden main fuse. The + wire from the battery has a fuse link buit in but just looks like a wire, this is the wire that does everytrhing EXCEPT power the starter.

You would not recalibrate the dipstick. The MAX mark on a dipstick is where the oil level is safe from being hit by the crank shatf and con rods.

I second that, 5 by 5 inches covered by a plate with 4 self tappers at each corner. Better a bit bigger than cutting your fingers trying to get at things.