sj-bradley

Looks like a volvo http://en.wikipedia....File:B5252S.jpg Is this correct? Quote > The Volvo S60 R has a 2.5 litre turbocharged inline five-cylinder engine which is capable of generating 300 brake horsepower (224 kW) and 295 lbf·ft (400 N·m) of torque ?? Simon.

Hi, That is quite a bulge on that bell housing. I compared it with the MT75 I fitted and your starter motor bulge is quite big. If your engine mounts are equally spaced - is the engine twisted in the frame? I.e you align the geabox mounting point and the centre of the crank shaft pulley to the centre of the cross member in front of the pulley. If that is not possible because of the bulge in the bellhousing, I'm stumped for an answer I'm afraid, short of a different bellhousing or trying to modify the one you have. Anyone else? Simon.

Oh, one more thing. Make sure that the pedal when it returns will not get trapped in the "up" position. With a strong spring that is a possiblilty. Simon.

Hi, What I did to help prevent this wobble is make a large aluminium strengthener to go inside the scuttle and that helped a lot. You will remove this afterwards anyway, so any large postcard sized piece bent to shape with a hole for the bolt will do. Simon.

Solved ! Instead of a new part costing around £75 - I managed to get a used one from E Bay for about £18. It turned out to be the TMAP sensor on the top of the pipe from the intercooler to the inlet. I did a google about that part - It is *not* a repairable item It's a complicated strain gauge for pressure and combined with a temperature sensor as well. I would have to go and pick the "non standard" laguna - the 130 hp which has a different MAP sensor, different EGR valve. (Actually this one is easier to block off than the original and it is also cleaner and clogs up less than the original too ! - Except as I have now blocked this off it should be no problem anymore ) Anyway, I'm happy that it has sorted out the problem. I now have to wait for the next one .... Simon.

Ah - Now THAT's a good point ! I'll definately have to contact DVLA then about the 'spare' Simon.

Hi, You do know that the bias bar will need to be welded into a fixed position for the IVA? Adjustable ones aren't allowed. Simon.

No. You need fuel grade quality hoses or else the hose will dissolve with the fuel. Simon.

Hi Ian, You can cut out the shape for that large gap from some spare sheet aluminium and use the bolt hole to fasten it in place. That smaller gap can be cut out of thin tin plate, possibly top of a roses tin would be the right thickness. Looks like a type 9 gearbox? Simon.

Thinking about it that way, you might be right. Is this a bias bar that you're talking about ? I think if you have discs all round that the pads will have to move the same amount of distance to the discs (usually) so the mechanical advantage of the smaller piston would as you say give a higher pressure. It would have to move further than the larger bore cylinder. I stand corrected. Simon.

I have drawn a simple sketch to show what I meant. If you attach the voltmeter as shown it should show a voltage between battery and 0v and should vary with engine off/idle/medium throttle. (Pictures are worth more than words ) Forgot to add sender label on the resistor ! Simon.

I think I would have to agree (Nice idea though !) Simon.

I opted to have the panels fitted and bonded on as there are less rivets showing, but I agree that it did make access a little harder, but not impossible. Simon.

I think I recall it IS M10 but metric Fine not standard metric Coarse. (I may be wrong though) Simon.

Well well, an interesting day today Post arrived and I was pleased to find that it contained all the missing original receipts that I had posted to the DVLA. I thought that the Postal Service had found them and returned them to me. Opening it though revealed something quite different. It had actually come from the DVLA as, enclosed within, was ANOTHER plating certificate and a SECOND TAX DISC ! Odd, I thought - until I read the registration number - which was one letter DIFFERENT to the one I already have ! It seems like the DVLA had this all along yet swore blind that they hadn't received it Question is - Do I send back the second tax disc for a refund ? ! Simon.

!!!

Assuming the front and rear calipers are the same size for now. A smaller bore would move LESS fluid than the larger bore for the same amount of travel so there would be a smaller movement of the cylinders attached to that one (assume rear cylinders) so less pressure. Large Bore - more fluid - more movement on slave cylinders (if they are the same size) so more pressure on the pads. Simon.

In that case, did they also trim the side where the starter motor bolts on as that is very close otherwise. Odd though that GBS would have done this. You're fortunate though as it took me 6 hours under the car to trim that bit off with a hacksaw ! I wasn't going to pull the engine out just for that Simon.

Do you know what the sender is supposed to be "sending" when it's working? Sounds like somewhere between 0 and 12 Volts You could then try and put a known voltage from a suitable battery pack to simulate a reading from the sender to see if the gauge reads it correctly. You can also put an voltmeter instead of the gauge and see what readings you get with engine off or running. I would first disconnect both ends and do a continuity check between the ends and also between wire and ground (chassis) in case you have a short there. (Before you put an ohm meter between wire and ground, put it on volts scale and check between wire and chassis then wire and Positive 12 Volts. You should NOT get any reading if that wire goes straight from sender to gauge as it should be insulated from both ground and 12 Volts) I think (after re-reading your post) that if you have bypassed the loom and gone from sender to gauge, you should take a voltage reading between the sender-gauge wire and ground. It should be between 0 and battery positive. If it doesn't change with engine running or not running then you have a short somewhere. Sounds like you need to test the gauge on a separate supply off the car. Simon.

Hello, I used a LWB transit type van which managed to get everything and engine in it as well. It was a dreadful thing to drive and had more dents in it than the Hitchikers Guide did ! I suppose I got my own back when the differential overturned in the back and dumped the oil everywhere ! Simon.

Sorry to hear the news. Hope that you make a full and speedy recovery, Simon.

There were "VIDEOS" ? Gasp Those I wouldn't mind seeing for myself. I can convert them to DVD so if anyone has some I could borrow for a while ? I would be interested. Simon.

Hi, If your steering lock on full lock fouls the tyres, have you considered adding a spacer inside the steering rack to limit the amount of travel so that full lock is physically limited? It would go inside the steering boot I believe so would need a strip down to fit one (or two for both sides) Simon.

Hi, As far as I am aware, the only way to adjust the pinion / crownwheel tolerances is the deformable spacer that goes between pinion and housing. If you try your way, it would mean twisting the axis of the crownwheel and therefore the contact patch between pinion and crownwheel. As longboarder states. Possibly there is no problem. I heard no end of strange sounds when I first took the car for a real drive. So longboarders reply has me less worried now as well. Thanks, Simon.

There was around 1 1/2 inches difference if I recall. (I can't be exact tonight as it would mean moving all the cars to get into the garage and hunt around for the bit I chopped off. I'll try and remember tomorrow and get a picture of the bit. Simon.