knights_templar

Hi again you are looking for a pin on the wiper part of the switch that goes live when the wiper switch is OFF, and no power when switched ON. On the Sierra switch it is either pin B1 or B2. may possibly be the same coding on other ford switches. this has to go to pin 2 of the wiper motor 1 3 2 5 4 you probable have the rest figured out. if not re post regards

I will eat humble pie, can't even read what's on my calculator, must admit was a bit surprised at difference. teach me to wear my glasses, and not read forums whilst painting the bathroom. assuming I haven't had another mental lapse, 0.66 is over half as much again, isn't it? Anyway, lots off people do it, all appear happy, and I'm not judging their decision in any way, probably would have done the mod myself in my younger days. did have a Reece Fish carburettor on a 1303S beetle once, advanced timing, centrifugal advance distributor, straight through exhaust, high lift rockers etc................ that went well, till it seized No 3, pulling away from some hot hatch, that was embarrassing to, and expensive. probably accounts for my caution now I've got old. Regards

Hi mower man Have an Amal mono for my triumph 5TA. 500 cc twin Same engine was fitted with twin Amal's think it was the T100 and from memory smaller diameter. Two 5TA carbs or four T100's will feed 1000cc no issue with that, they are designed for that volume of air. 600cc carbs on 2000cc engine? A carb is a carb it mixes fuel and air, what it is fitted on doesn't really matter, more fuel and air bigger bank more power, no quibble. Have set enough up in my time. my point is how well is it doing it? that's all, it works, just doubt some of the stories out there as to how well. And to go back to the start of the thread, Thrashed was at a rolling road to set up for IVA, at that point we did not know he was going for age related, which will make life a lot easier, but he may well have to go back again to undo IVA set-up afterward. Just appeared a lot of time, and possible expense, when the bog standard carb will meet the requirement, put the bike carbs on afterward and tune for power on the rolling road. Discussion is irrelevant really, bikes moved to injection in 2009 so the supply of carbs will eventually dry up, or become less cost effective, and with the number of people fitting them, probably sooner than we think. Regards

Like a good discussion 150cc theoretical max intake per induction stroke x 14000 rpm is 210000cc as you only get induction every second revolutions / 2 = 105000cc 500cc --------------------------"---------------- x 7000 rpm is 3500000cc ---------------------------"----------------------- / 2 = 1750000cc 1750000/105000 is 16.66 times greater than design. they are variable venturi or constant depression carbs just like the SU and its copiers Zenith/Stromberg (diaphragm instead of piston) Nikki (SU patent ignored) and even the Ford VV (an ill fated attempt to get around SU patent) all designed for cars. Your right, this type of card has a number of advantages over fixed venturi. but only when used in the application for which they were designed. have a look at http://www.dansmc.com/carbs2.htm, you will see what I mean about tuning. anyway theory aside have a look at the carbs on a bike when it is running, the sliders stay steady at what ever revs you set, then have a look at them fitted to a larger capacity engine, the sliders pulse quite violently at tick-over, less so on steady revs, and on full revs some actually top out. as slider position has the greatest effect of fuel delivery, how can this be correct for the engine? Not arguing they don't do what is intended, they do give more power, not efficiently, and not economically and some would say not reliably. but maybe its just me, always been one to buck a "trend", everyone is doing it, just look at you-tube, so it must be right? would probably have been hung draw and quartered in the past, more likely to argue the world was round, coz everyone else said it was flat. Regards

Hi No, quite correct, that's how you get more air in, so you can add more fuel, and get bigger bang. have no problem with that theory. The problem comes with the volume of air. In theory 600cc draws 150cc of air at max throttle (actually less if you take into account air cleaner restrictions, inlet track throttle shaft, valve etc). A 2.0 litre will try and suck in 500cc of air through the same carb in the same time span. without going into the mists of how carbs work their magic. http://www.dansmc.com/carbs2.htm if your interested, just looking at the carbs at tickover will show they are working hard and way out of their build tolerance, and as for fuelling, just drilling out the main jet is a very crude way of tuning an engine. whilst I can understand the draw of cheaper power, I worry about the extra load on the carbs and the risk of major engine problems due to incorrect fuelling. So what you gain in one hand can easily be taken by the other. Regards

Hi for a 2.0ltr, that's over three times greater than the carb was designed for. I know its the "cheap" way of getting more power, let more air in, and tip in enough fuel, and your bound to. and I know its the "in thing" on the forums, but have always considered a very inefficient way of doing it. anyway, if you now have the fitting sorted, should be relatively easy to get a age plate, given time and a gas analyser. but I suspect you will have to do it again after the test to get it to run properly. If you have the original carb for the engine, I'd stick that on, its designed to meet the requirement and is easily tweaked at the test centre if out. what happens afterward, well everything stays as it was at the test, doesn't it? regards

Hi Question:- engine is not known, lets assume 1600 cc pinto, carbs are designed to feed 600 cc (zx6). so a carb designed to feed each cylinder with 150cc of air and mix it with fuel every induction stroke is asked to deliver 400cc of air. with fuel, every induction stroke. drill out the jets, and throw fuel down it and you get the power. emissions? Fitting of carbs are fine with GBS setup, provided they are seated correctly. can vibrate loose if not fitted perfectly. note bike carbs have special inlet collars, that are expensive, and are not designed to fit car engines. As for IVA. I know of one vehicle that was able to pass current regulations and get a new plate. If you are going for age related it will be easier, but still a problem. regards

Hi talk to Richard at GBS. he know all about them, as he worked at Robin Hood, with the companies founder. Regards

Hi you are running Zetec, what are you running it with. e.g carbs, injection, ecu ? Regards

Hi again just noticed your last post re stalks. Haven't got any info on them, sorry If you have a haines manual with a switch internal circuit you can post should be able to work it out. will have a google regards

Hi The bike type mirrors are designed to fit on the screen brackets. holes for brackets are "approx" 12 to 13 cm from the bottom of the scuttle, which is to low to fit the mirrors. two options drill an extra hole where the scuttle bends, with the screen bracket mounted it should be behind the top of the triangle bit, this can be bunged and is hidden by the screen bracket. or ask if GBS can put the car through the test, they have a number of short cut devices to get cars through, including special mirror brackets. Regards

Hi Not sure what you mean by Mk5 switch, but if you can give me some more info I have sorted all the different ford switches to provide park signal, as you can not put a continual feed with the slow speed switched on or the fuse blow. Regards

Hi You do have to trim the nose as David S says. There are two moulds, one will fit over the front, top wishbone bracket, which avoids having to trim the bracket for IVA the other doesn't so don't forget to trim. Also a point that I know has caught some people out. The rad requires a mod to fit in between the brackets, the front of the rad fits to the brackets, if you fit to the back of the rad the spoiler part of the nose will prevent it going back far enough. Regards

Have you asked GBS They build them Regards

Hi Wouldn't bother fitting one myself, tends to be a tight fit between gearbox and tunnel on a zero. If you are running any other engine than the Pinto, there is no back-plate to the engine that fits the bell housing so plenty of holes to let dust out and muck in anyway. Regards

"Something to stop the sphere of doom contacting the Lambda sensor / mounting. - that bit gets seriously hot so no idea how to do that" Fabricate a shield from alloy, "and the most popular problem at the minute..... can you easily access the harness lower adjusters with the seats furthest forward (if adjustable) - my seats are on runns, but you can hardly move them forward anyway and as soon as they do move forard there is enough space to get in and play with the slack (the issue is when they are as far backas they can go)" One tester tests with the seat fully forward, don't know which station. Nottingham testers say it should NOT be tested fully forward, and generally move the seat to a "Mr Average" position. "In the opinion of the tester at the time of testing" Regards

Hi Try GBS kitspares. http://www.kitspares.co.uk two items may be of interest, http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.php?cat=16&product=5161&catsub=0 http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.php?cat=16&product=5160&catsub=0 But give Richard a ring at GBS first. Regards

Have heard of this. looks a nice job. Has one been through IVA ? Regards

Hi again Just had a look at your blog pics. looks good. Just a bit puzzled with the fuel tank connections that appear to be on top of the tank. Sure the GBS tank doesn't have them there ? Regards Simon

Hi If you are using the ford stalks there are two different feeds to the headlight switch (left stalk), a brown wire that feeds the flash (pin 15) and a brown with black tracer (pin 56) that should connect to the light switch (pin 56) on the other stalk. Assuming the side lights work check this connection if they don't check the feed to the lights red wire (pin 30). The fact one headlight works and the other doesn't would point to the connection to that light as the feed is shared from the relay up to the n/s/f suspension. It then splits to both headlights. regards Simon

Try GBS Regards

Hi There is a weak point on the Ford gasket, where the front engine cover and rear main oil seal cover attach to either end of the block. Ford advise a bead of sealant at these four points (along the gasket) to take up any differences in levels. Have had a similar problem with the raised sump of another manufacturer, and even though I had fitted the sealant as advised it took two applications, and more sealant than I would have liked to make up the .5 mm difference in level between the rear main end plate and the crank case. Gasket should take re-use. I use the wurth liquid gasket but provided the surfaces are clean, a silicon based sealant should work. Just let it set a while before filling with oil. Regards Simon

Hi Can confirm play in drive plate is NOT normal, you need to remove the clutch cover and have a look you also noted in a later post that you have not had the clutch off since purchase. The engine does not normally come with a spigot bush, which you have to fit to support the gearbox input shaft. to fit this you have to remove the clutch. from your video I would say you have one fitted, possibly at GBS but you need to check. regards

Hi Yanto moment of truth? :-) The advice given above regarding oil pressure is sound, however the engine is not "dry" as with a rebuild so I wouldn't worry to much. Only low oil pressure I have noted was incorrect short oil filter. You will need to prime the fuel system before trying to start. The ECU will only run the pumps a few seconds and then wait for a crank signal before restarting them, with a dry system this can take a while, Just switch the ignition on and off a few times, allowing the pumps to go through the cycle, you will hear the high pressure pump note change, when it is delivering full pressure. Calibrate the TPS in the ECU or it may get a little confused. Common fault on first start is balance on Jenvey throttles. if it fails to start, or runs uneven PM me. set tick-over, but if you do adjust, remember to re calibrate TPS. If you have installed the performance map, the coin test may not be possible, only ever seen that on a roller engine 20/25 circa 1920's but it ticked over at 400rpm. approx 950rpm should be fine. Regards

movement in input shaft is taken care of by spigot bush, and is normal when not in position. The boss you are moving in your first video is not rigidly connected to the centre plate. and is designed to move against the springs mounted in the plate, a device to aid the smooth take up of drive. I must admit the movement appears excessive to what I remember, however I know where a new engine resides, and can check it tomorrow. Will let you know asap. Type 9 box pivot mod requires the clutch arm pivot point moving approx 10 - 15mm nearer the clutch. The easiest way is to remove the the old pivot, drift will get it out, keep the thrust washer. Find a bolt that will go through the new hole in the box the bolt head replaces the flat top of the pivot you removed put on the thrust washer and a plane flat body washer, followed by a nylock nut. adjust the nut toward the bolt head but allow sufficient space between the bolt head and thrust washer for the clutch release arm fork to sit between them and pivot freely. add another nylock and a washer, adjust this nut until there is approx 10 - 15mm between the last washer fitted and the face of the thrust washer. the bolt can then be pushed through the bell housing, from the clutch side. secure with a nut on the outside of the bell housing. when you have the gearbox back in position just check the movement of the release arm, you need it to come back far enough so that it releases. and that nothing catches. should be sufficient. If above is unclear GBS workshop should help, or PM me. Regards