knights_templar

"caps" plural? you should only have one pressure/vacuum cap in a system, or they will end up fighting each other. Is this a new fault, and previously everything was fine, or have you made some changes to the system?

forgive me if I haven't grasped something, but is it your handbrake not working, or/and your rear brakes in general? Bleeding the rears on the Zero is a bit of a pain, and often needs bleeding, running and re bleeding, but bleed all you want and it will have no effect on the handbrake.

if Sierra callipers, handbrake is mechanical, and on the Zero fitted up side down

You will get "continuity" when hot, the thermo switch is switched ON, unless I have misread the above your problem is that the fan remains on, so either the thermo switch is switching on too low or the engine is running at a higher temp than the switch. what does your gauge indicate when the fan starts up? You mention the VG loom, which, from my info, did not have a fan circuit, it was designed for an engine driven fan, so any circuit you have is separate to the loom, and from your description is live fed through a thermo switch OR through a relay controlled by a thermo switch, to the fan and then to ground. Have you any pictures ?

Well this is getting more heated than it really needs to. I will of coarse bow to greater knowledge of legal matters, my qualification is a little older and likely out of date. I'm just looking at what is in front of us, and it does not appear to be just GBS saying it is OK, the insurance company as well as the DVLA, who make the rules, say it is, I think that a number, including me have said get it in writing. And as Ozz says that may a little vague when actually received. whether we agree with what the DVLA says or not, if the written version is the same as the verbal, do we complain to the DVLA? decry GBS for giving out the same advise, refuse insurance with Flux? or stop blue getting back on the road? Thankfully not my call I cant speak for GBS, I have no idea what they would say or do, as implied I would, but if asked I would say the Zero is more than equal to the S7, different structure? yes, allowed to replace a vehicle of a different construction? not my call, refer to above. If it comes to responsibility in the event of an accident, is the IVA protection that a vehicle was built to a standard? and if the vehicle was pre IVA or even SVA? who then? or is that it is the drivers responsibility to make sure the vehicle is safe and legal for the road? these are rhetorical, perhaps we should just draw a line under the topic and wish blue all the best for getting his vehicle back on the road, the quickest way possible, but legally.

Maybe I misunderstood, but I have found courts work with proof, And where one side can not be proven, it is discounted. Been in a car related court case, the other side lost, because their evidence was presented by an unqualified person therefore discounted. Bit puzzeled why you think you are protecting GBS, even if I were employed, they did not make the S7, and what I understand from the above, have said nothing different to the DVLA. But I would agree it would be better to get it in writing.

If you follow topic posts are emailed to you, so deleted or not we still can see them, SO The streghth of a chassis can be calculated, a mono would need expensive computer simulation or testing to destruction, so would it not be the case that the chassis can be proven to be strong enough, not that it the more or less the same strength?

As DVLA are the people that administer everything, and they say its OK then it must be. I do acknowledge concern about lack of IVA, however an IVA is nothing to do with safety, or road worthiness, just that there is compliance to various rules and regulation at the time of a test. The MGB is homo-ligated, a re-shell just takes on the identity of the previous vehicle, rightly or wrongly, it is the drivers responsibility to make sure they are driving a legal, and safe, vehicle. This is the same thing, one car goes to car heaven and is reincarnated as a zero, the difference is that the original car was not homo-logated, and probably built pre SVA let alone IVA with very little standard applied. It will still be the responsibility of the driver that it is legal and safe to be on the road. Should it be checked? A second pair of eyes is always a good thing, a second pair of eyes checking to a standard, however floored, probably better. Is this wrong? well it will depend on your point of view, here I must declare bias, I know the Zero. The mono's are an old design, made before the riggers of ministry testing and although popular, and if looked after, able to give good service, they are not a Zero, sorry, cry foul if you wish, well, not before comparing them, GBS have some track days coming up, take yours along, then try the Zero, If I am wrong, shout then. But the mono is a very good donor for the zero, it uses the same bits, short of the weighty Sierra rear sub frame, and can be morphed to, some would argue, a far better car, Ok if not better, lets say more modern, tin hat on, cowering in bunker, JMO

if it is valve clearances or cam wear, compression will be down on the effected cylinder, so it is not a good indicator for the rest of the engine. First thing, check valve clearances, you may just have an adjuster that has come loose. you can make further assessment after that.

don't think VV was ever fitted to pinto, but may be wrong

negative terminal of coil

between wheel and hazard button https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11598108/%24_57.JPG but close look at the cowl picture above makes me think that Andi's idea is better, as the cowl does not appear to have the inter locking tabs the original Ford bits do

It's a separate bit so I doubt it, I would ask

You should have a spring clip/bridge that fits between the left and right switch top screw mounts, and allows one screw from the top to hold the top part of the cowl to the lower part

Bike carbs will only work correctly if they are at the same angle as the bike they are designed to fit. There is no way to change that, so the intake angle is important.

you can get connectors to fit the Ford switch pins, straight forward as Ford mark the pin numbers.

Lucas motors are a little strange, the park feed MUST be switched OFF before supplying power to Speed 1, or it will blow a fuse. This is done in the Lucas switch, and can be made to work on many donor switches. This is its workings, http://www.gomog.com/BLAIR/tech/electrical/wipers/2speed/2SpeedWiperMotor.html Haven't time to consider if you can connect to your switch at present will have a think this evening.

Made means they are connected, bit late to get my head around it now, will have a think.

From memory, it is just a base resistor, the instructions are in the manual, the actual calibration is done with a formula in the dash 2 or dash 2 pro, but as each setup is different, not sure which sensor you are using, I would agree with 2Bcrusing.

But as you acknowledgement there are no two chassis alike, would the cross members be there to support all chassis, some, maybe, weaker than your own. I have to say 15mm is actually quite good, the Ford Escort FWD had an accepted 35mm difference side to side, and I have seen 2B at 45mm

the difference can be seen here http://www.greatbritishsportscars.co.uk/zero-gallery/ its the angle of the wing edges nearest the ground

Smiths flight gauges have a four wire plug with three wires, not a single wire. Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200962666597 Think you have the earlier Smiths gauge, not flight

http://www.caigauge.com/documents/pdfs/pil049-iss1-flt-prsm-52mm-364.pdf no regulator, there is a resistor in the sender fly lead as I believe transducer is 5volt, gauge is ok between 11 and 17 volts sender part number shown. they do read high on the Zetec

is that like their "interpretation" of emission regulations

cable ties?, the thin ones.