geoff shep

I made a s/s bracket and used 2 bobbins - wouldn't there be quite a lot of twisting moment using a single bobbin? However mine's mounting direct onto the body panel of an S7. Looks like I need some s/s bolts too.

Yes they were from early sierras - up to about A or B reg I think. The ones on my donor were pretty knackered but managed to find some in a breakers about 4-5 years ago. More difficult to find now I think.

Ty Croes The one they use on 5th gear.

Not sure, '195' is the tread width so your wing is only just a bit bigger. Mine, as supplied by RH, are about 240mm wide, over 195 tyres and are a tad too wide. If they are nice and tight, they need to be close fitting to make them look right (IMHO) so you need to know the radius too. If you search ebay for 'cycle wings' you can see others advertised where sellers are making comparative claims for width vs tyre size which might help.

I am with pipex - not the cheapest but never had a problem. I have looked at various surveys and they come out pretty well. This site is pretty useful too adslguide. Here's a comparison I did between 5 providers inc AOL and pipex Comp I have also used this little utility NetMeter which tots up your usage. There are plenty of providers who also give an idea of your monthly usage from some simple questions about your surfing habits. Have a look at uswitchalso to get some comparisons and available deals. Found this too from a provider: What can I do with a 2Gb Limit? Surfing the internet 4 hrs a day Sending JPEG pictures via email (e.g. photos) 60 JPEGs a week Receiving JPEG pictures via email (e.g. photos) 60 JPEGs a week Downloading music 10 tracks a week Downloading video clips 10 x 2 min clips a week Listening to online radio 4 hours a week Sending emails (no attachments) 200 emails a week Receiving emails (no attachments) 200 emails a week

This is the general layout and this is the 4wd sump which you would want to replace.

A prop shaft runs forward from the gearbox to the front axle. (Remember the engine in the sierra sits on the front sub frame). The front diff is offset on the right side of the engine but the left halfshaft runs through the sump. You could seal up the holes or use a std rwd sump. Got some photos somewhere but can't access them at work. Maybe later.

It appears to be a Mk1 subframe arrangement but isn't there a bit of the monococque missing at the front - there should be a front cross member thingy surely to attach the sierra subframe to.

Don't have a 3a but age related plate stuff is here DVLA

Here are some pics of my (untested) setup as bought complete. I am assuming that it can be used single or twin cable. I can take more from additional unusual angles if required. Thumbnails only to save bandwidth - click the link for full size (1024x768) Link 1Link 2

Go Kart

Take it to Halfords or somewhere similar and have it tested. They can read 12V but have no umph. Or connect it to the car and see whether it will turn the starter. I had a similarly old batt, charged all day, drove for 30 mins or so but would still not re-start the car.

Few previous answers on this eg here - see my comment. I did it 10 years ago and its still holding well - good brake results each year at MOT. Either way, a bit of solder on the cable stops the strands fraying when snipped.

These look reasonable - anyone tried them? Mesh Vents

Peter, I have just been trying to fit the spacers - using the cut in half method - but they foul slightly on the inside of the brake backplate. I need to trim the top corners slightly (which is not a problem) but I wondered if anyone else has had a similar problem and whether you should know in case a small alteration to the design was required - or maybe I'm doing it wrong (or just my backplates - they are std 2L hatch). Mine appear to need trimming as shown:

Mini heaters used to be all the rage - fitted easily in mine. VW Polo though, seems to be the current trend.

Not sure how up-to-date this is? Did front and rear wings a couple of times and the whole of the underside (monococque) it dries/or goes off best in damp/humid conditions so I guess now's a good time of year!

I think he means the bend in the under-bonnet photo further up rather than the drawing - ??

That bend might not be too bad, the original mini fit had a fair bend in it - the main point is that the bundy tubes need to be fixed - to the motor and to the wheel boxes. The flared ends fit inside the motor ferrule and inside the clamp on each wheelbox. You can't have an unsheathed bit of spiral rod - that gap in yours is causing the problem. That link talks about taking the motor apart to change the park position. All you need to do is to rotate the wheelboxes through 180 and repostion the arms. The mini motor parks with the rod extended, the first movement is towards the motor so if the rod runs above and behind the wheelbox, the first movement of the blade will be towards the motor side of the car. (top picture) Sounds like you want the left wheel box like top and right one like bottom picture for clap hands, outwards park (motor on the right) Like this:

Made mine from the vinyl stuff that came with the kit as I didn't have a big enough piece of leather. Surrounds are aluminium sheet cut and polished.

Is there normally an on/off control in the water flow - my heater always has hot water going through it - its the fan and/or airflow that's selctable.

They were to cover the ends of the rear swinging arm bolts on the early sierra models - they are called nerf panels or something similar. I never fitted mine. Its not pretty but neither are the cones. Bolt head is covered with plastic cover from top of front dampers. Picture

This is the thing you need sir, Tyre size calc

GPS should be more accurate than your speedo. You could always check it against another GPS! Without wishing to teach egg sucking etc, have you checked the GPS is set in statute miles - air/ship nav is done in nautical miles (which are bigger) and is usually one of the available settings - 60mph is about 52knots.

Mine's a '95 S7 zintec monocoque - it started to crack at the advertised place at the back of the engine bay floor panels, as Peter said, starting from the stiffening flange. I ran 2 lengths of 1" box section along the underside, hard up against the flange, all the way from the front crossmember back to below the footwell and I think it was also attached to some strengthening acroos the body around the gearbox support area. I also added some strengthening at the back over the rear spring areas.