harvs

Hi I've started using titainium coated bits which I found to last a little longer and are cheaper than cobalt (but not as good). I've also found that if I put a lot of pressure on and use a low speed that the bits tend to last a bit longer too.

I've used a couple of those 9-way connectors on mine. They work pretty well

Wikipedia says that the 112 numbers are connected to the 999 circuits - so there's no difference between them...

Hi John I have one of the early super specs and the mounting plate & floor has pre drilled holes for the seat, seat belt and fixing hole - not sure if yours is the same of if you have to drill the holes your self? I didn't have any trouble with things overlapping. Have you definitely got the right holes for the right item?! One thing I found was that everything fitted better if I had the runners at different positions - ie one side was further forwards than the other. I removed the plastic stops and everything stayed in one piece! Another thing I found useful was welding the bolts to the runners. I found that I had to take the seats in and out a few times (including changing the seat for another type, but retaining the runners). This made it much easier to put the nuts on underneath and avoided trying to hold two spanners in awkward locations! Good luck Harvs

Yep - I've just been for a quick trip in the hood. Definitely feels like summer is on the way....(well less freezing cold anyway)

Hi John It's in section 45 Safety Glass... Not sure if they would be happy with a marking of an equivalent standard. ie if E17 is as good as E43 then they may be ok with it. You could try phoning your local IVA test centre to see what they say. Or you could just chance it.... Hope this helps Harvs

The link works - if you delete the ")" from the end. The space looks a bit tight to me!

Good thinking, thanks Ian. I took it to have them done at lunchtime - needed 25g and 35g on the back wheels. It still vibrates a bit at 65-70 ish, but it seemed a lot better on the short test trip I did. A bit uncomfortable at those speeds, but it didn't feel like something was about to drop off Cheers! Harvs

Hi I cured my previous vibration problems (prop shaft connection) but now seem to have another problem. I first noticed it when on the motorway for the first time. At around 65-70 mph, some part of the drive train makes the car vibrate somewhat alarmingly! Last night I put the car on axle stands and ran it at various speeds. It started to vibrate again at 65-70, but the vibrations seemed to go away at around 80. At 100mph, it seemed relatively smooth! So I'm guessing that there may not be any loose fixings and that it could just be the way the car is - with a resonating vibration at particular speeds. Has anyone else had a similar issue / think this is a valid conclusion / or can think of anything I can try to do which will fix it? Cheers Harvs

I went away for the weekend in the RH, so had lots of fun driving around the peak district The car ended up covered in mud though . Was thinking about adding some rubber mud flaps to go at the back of the front mud guards - but not sure how they would look. Has anyone else done this - do they work? do they look ok? Cheers Harvs

Mine passed the IVA 'as is'. Not sure if I was just lucky though

Great - many thanks for all the replies guys That's what I've gone for. Was actually quite easy to do. The broken stood doesn't look too bad and will be nearly hidden by the interior mirror. Done 5 studs now, and all went in ok. Yep - think that was partly to blame. I really didn't want to make the hole too big, so erred on the smaller side. Went 0.5mm bigger this time, and they still did up quite tight. John - that's also another good idea. I'd have maybe gone for that solution if I hadn't already been in the garage to sort it tonight! It's great being a hoodie Cheers Harvs

Ah, great - thanks Terry. I'll take a look at those

I need to use this position as one of the studs. Maybe I'll just have to take the windscreen off, and try and drill it out with it on a flat surface so I can apply a bit more pressure.... Actually, thinking about it, this may be a better method of doing it - if I have the windscreen off, I can bring it into the warm house when measuring up the hood fitting positions - rather than trying to keep the garage warm so that the material stretches. I was hoping for a quick and easy solution to getting the stud out (without taking the windscreen off). But, as with most things hoody, I guess there aren't any short cuts!

Hi I've started fitting my hood, using using lift-the-dot fasteners across the window frame. I've fitted the back plate to the hood and last night started to fit the studs to the frame Here's what the studs look like... I managed to carefully drill the hole using a hand drill, but when screwing in the stud, it sheared off. I guess the sub zero temperatures weren't helping... Anyway, here's what the frame + broken stud look like now... I've tried drilling the stud out, but the metal seems quite hard and obviously I've not been pushing too hard on the windscreen. Does anyone have any ideas of how I can fix this?! Cheers Harvs

Hi Al My engine number is like yours, but I have 84 instead of your 96, so doubt it's the year. Sorry - not much use! Harvs

I think an alternative method is to stick some brillo pads in!

Thanks Guys. Still can't find anywhere cheaper - so *expensive* must be the going rate for them! Think I'll go with Grizzly's method of just using them at the front - good idea! I spent most of last night de-rusting the 2 hood frames - 6 years of surface rust on them! Think I'll spend tonight taking the seats out so I can get the drill in position for the hood bracket holes. It feels like a lot of effort so far, and I haven't even got to the tricky bits yet......! Cheers Harvs

Thanks mower man. Price is coming out at £52 plus postage from Car Builder Solutions

Hi I'm going to brave putting on the hood soon I see that a few hoodies are recommending the lift the dot fasteners over the press stud ones supplied. I'm done quite a bit of searching and the cheapest I can find are from Wollies.... Socket & backplate £4.78 for 10 Self tapping screw £4.70 for 10 Think I'll need 24, so with postage it'll be over £30 Does anyone know of a lower cost supplier? Cheers Harvs

I've found this on the internet, which is quiet interesting. Not sure if it's been posted before, but might be worth a look if you've got a few hours to kill...! Harvs

Is anyone else excited?!

Fantastic, thanks for the replies guys. Got quite a list of stocking fillers now - cheers! Harvs

Hi Now I’m on the road I should probably think about keeping some kind of basic tool kit in the car – just in case!! I was wondering if everyone else has a tool kit and what it includes… I guess since most of us have a spare wheel on then a jack & wheel spanner must be common?! What other ‘must haves’ do you include in your car took kit? How many of you don’t bother with a tool kit / jack? Given (on some RHs) it’s difficult to lock the jack away, it would be relatively easy for someone to use your jack to jack up the car and nick the wheels – so maybe a reason for not bothering with a jack?! Interested to hear what your thoughts are... Cheers Harvs

Yep, I usually nod off to the F1 too! I've see a few of the races this year and have enjoyed them much more than ones I've seen in previous years. I think this is partly due to the range of teams which have had success this year and I think also due to the coverage being done by the BBC. In particular I think the new presenter has done a fantastic job - they also seem to be getting across the atmosphere of F1 and the ins & outs of the sport rather than just watching the cars go round the track.