harvs

Great, thanks Guys. Just the info I need...

Another one here please!

Hi I'm thinking about doing the tracking on my superspec. It's currently on axle stands and I'm wondering if it's ok to do the tacking with the wheels off the ground - or would the alignments change when back on the floor (meaning any tracking would then be out of alignment)? Also I'm thinking of using a piece of flat steel pushed into the treads and spying down the length of it to some markings c. 3 metres away. I know this isn't going to be super accurate - just wondered if anyone has had much success doing it like this? Cheers Harvs

Great, thanks for the comments guys I'll see if I can dig out another of the bolts with the 3 lines, then at least I'm consistent. If I have any problems with the SVA, then it's an easy job to change them...

Hi I'm fitting the top seat belt mounts to the chassis (on a superspec). I have one 8.8 grade bolt, (which I believe is the correct rating) and 3 similar bolts, but with 3 radial lines marked on (rather than any numbers). I have a feeling these are ok - but just want to check I won't foul any SVA rules because they don't say 8.8? Cheers James

Yep, it should fit directly. But I think that for the SVA, you need to be able to visibly inspect the fluid levels - a bit tricky if it's tucked inside the scuttle! Here's what I did....

I had an early MGF and absolutely loved it! If you go for the TF, then you're getting a very nice car for a reasonable price which should be much less prone to HGF than the earlier models. I've been in MX5s, but do prefer the engine being in the middle - much more fun throwing it around the corners! Anyway, good luck with whatever you go for...

I've got an air horn fitted along with a relay. I'm glad I did fit the relay, because there was a bit of plastic in the horn which prevented it spinning. Blew a few fuses before I found that out - but better than frying all the wiring!

Thanks for the posts guys. I've toyed with the idea of using one of the spare locks supplied.... but the thought of trying to make a circular hole c.2.5cm diameter in the stainless steel isn't too appealing! gavinc - like the look of yours, got that smooth feel to it! I'll be off to the garage later for some more thinking time!

I've fitted my boot lid now, and am thinking about how to secure it, and wondered what everyone else has done... I'm not too worried about having a locking boot - it's so small I doubt I'd be able to fit anything of value in there! But am concerned that if I don't fit some sort of catch then it would bounce up and down over any bumps... Cheers James

I've switched to Ubuntu at home, and use it for everything now (no longer us XP). I think it's great. It look a bit of setting up, but that was mostly to get it exactly how I wanted it. There's a really good community for ubuntu - and any questions posted on there usually get answered in a few minutes! Also, my dad wants a new computer, so I'm going to build him a ubuntu box too. I think linux is probably suited to the more 'savvy' user as you do come across things which need fixing. Usually this involves a quick look on the internet and a copy and paste of a few commands. I guess it's like a robin hood builder (linux) v caterham 'builder' (windows)! Any way, good luck with it...

Or - if it's just you that uses the RH, you could just fit the seat in a new, closer position. That way, the seat won't be lifted up by new adjusters. But if you're a bit 'short'?! you probably wouldn't mind that?

Hi Eric I would pursue the matter. I don't want to appear alarmist, but I've seen whiplash injuries which can cause pain for several months, even with minor shunts. Hopefully you and your better half will be fine in a few days, but I'd say it's worth getting the ball rolling... Probably worth you getting checked out too - just to be on the safe side? Even if it's just for your own peace of mind in case any pain comes back later, at least you'll have it on record.

Hi I found this one of the more frustrating bits so far....! I used the storks as supplied, but cut them in two and positioned them either side of the column. I fixed them using a metal bar, tie wraps and loads of silicon sealer. It's now really strong and they remain fixed when using them - even when flashing the headlamps with some enthusiastic force! As for the cover, I used the plastic bits that came from RH, but cut them up loads, and covered them in cloth. I've positioned the steering wheel where I want it, and won't be moving it again, so no need to worry about trying to make them adjustable still! I think the end result is ok - a lot better then RH's attempt anyway! Anyway, good luck.

Hooray, my work has stopped blocking access to RHOCAR community. I can now log on during work, er lunch, time...!

Thanks for your responses guys - you've persuaded me! I've got some beading, but it's a little wide, and think it will 'buckle' a bit around the corners. So I'll have to get some thin stuff - I like what yours looks like enforcer! I know woollies sells this kind of stuff - but the postage always looks expensive when you're just buying one or two things. Is there anywhere else I can try? Cheers James

Hi I'm just thinking about fitting the windscreen today.... I've seen on the forum that many people have fitted trim around the windscreen pillars. Is this required for the SVA? I've thought about doing this, but I think it would be a lot of effort for me, and I think it will look ok with the pillars just pained black... Cheers James

I use a few old rugs strategically placed around the car. One has an especially thick pile - useful if I fancy a quick nap...

I spent two weekends trying to get a firm pedal with the engine on. Think it was air trapped in one of the front calipers. Finally got a reasonable pedal....just need to finish the rest off so I can test it on the road . Good luck - be patient!

Hi Jon Don't worry about the electrics - they aren't too scary if you take it slow and do a bit of research as you go along. You'll find loads of info about how relays work etc on this site, or just try a google search. As for the bullet connectors, if you're talking about the ones on the rear lights for example then you just join the bullets together using either a double or single black connector, where the bullets should just push in to either end. You might need some pliers to squeeze them in a little though... For other types of connectors it's best to get a crimping tools. These are quite cheap (c£5) from b&q etc. And look something like this: Good luck!

If you don't want to spend any cash, you could download OpenOffice which gives you word and excel equivalents for free!

Excellent news - congratulations!

You'll need a relatively large fuse. I wired mine through the same fuse and it blew a 10amp easily. Put 20amp, and all working fine...

Here's a discussion on two ways of doing it: link I think the way RH orignally said to do it (with a t-piece) leads to overheading issues. Looping the upper and lower rail pipes appears to be the best way, and is the way most super spec builders have done it. (I've done it this way too, but mine's still in the gargage!) Hope this helps. Good luck James

I'm with NTL - £9.99 per month for 2mb. Not sure if they still do this offer though.