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Posts posted by theduck

  1. Hi, I assume you didnt build the car originally? Do you know if the builder used a GBS supplied loom? Its possible to buy other off the shelf looms, or of course they could have scratch built it.

  2. Yuasa NP17-12I are a good alternative to the oddysey pc680 and similar.  They can be bough for less than £50 and appear to be an identical battery.  I have fitted one to the Prefect and Steve Walford uses them in all his race cars.

  3. This has been a long time coming, but as part of the recent update to the forum software there is now a new and improved dark theme available.  To select the new dark theme scroll to the bottom of the page, select Themes and then Dark Theme 2.0.

  4. 18 minutes ago, brumster said:

    As the revs drop (as it starts to presumably cut out, although in this instance he saved it/it picked up again) the MAP reading is going down on the graph but in reality it's a negative reading (negative pressure) so it starts off at -0.67 bar (rpm @ 1400) and goes up to -0.24 bar (rpm @ 500) as it starts to stall. Assuming it's all calibrated of course, I would take the actual pressure readings with a pinch of salt but that's what the values on the graph show as.

    Ah ok that makes sense.  

  5. Just skimmed so apologies if I have missed something, but it’s a misfire at cruise right? Have you got an overrun fuel cut? If that is set incorrectly you can have that cut fuel at cruise. 

    Another thing, I can’t see the logs but dans comment seems to suggest map reading goes up when throttle closes? If so that suggest map reading is wrong side of the throttle body. 

  6. 2 hours ago, apgodden said:

    Thanks Richy.

    just to clarify the link I put on is the Superspec arches that you recommended.


    Hopefully you realised before order but the link is for ONE off side arch, not a pair of arches.

  7. Lots of people claim the monocoque robin hoods won’t go through IVA, but as I and many others have proven, they are wrong. Only things I had to do to pass were:


    - add additional bracing to the column support under the dash as the Robin Hood one alone would flex. 

    - add some panel strengthening where the lower harness bolts bolted to the chassis - this was just some angle iron welded over the panel and the harnesses bolted through that so in a crash the panel is less likely to deform. 

    - add bracing for the upper harness mounts on the rear panel

    - add large load spreading plates for the seat mounts. 

    - brace the pedal box front panel back to the fire wall to reduce flex

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