Andy Spencer

I used to run an S7 with a 4 speed box. Upgraded from a 1600 to 2 litre. Some earlier 1600 clutches were smaller diameter - if that flywheel and clutch arrangement was transferred to to 2 litre engine and it was upgraded for power could be a potential issue. I found a clutch plate that would fit the 7/8" 20 spline 4 speed box but was a 2 litre diameter so kept the 2 litre flywheel and clutch system. If you end up dismantling may be worth checking this. Cheers

Good luck. Give me a PM if you need any more help though. There's plenty of people on here now that have also gone through the process so I'm sure you'll not be stuck for advice.

Its worth remembering that despite the cost and initial problems with the water rails they can be effective. I have a standard raceline rail. Two 3mm holes drilled in the stat itself to allow some water flow to activate it. Quick warm ups still even in winter and absolutely no probs in thousands of miles. Its not all bad news with the rails if you can get a cheap one and saves lots of other work.

I suffer from constant tinkeritis too, which isn't so good with a zetec car and Emerald setup. So like you have turned to other things. Having had a general moan recently about not having enough space about our house, we had a good clear out. Then I saw an old Suffolk punch engine on ebay that had been sat in someone local's shed for 32 years without a plug in it. A few quid later and its home, so taught my son how to strip down engines. Freed it up, sorted the seized valves, got a spark by cleaning up the points, sorted fuel leaks, stripped / cleaned carb, rebuilt and got it going. Of course there's no use for it really, although running sweet as a nut, apart from maybe thinking about building a go kart with it.... must go on the 'bay and have a look for a suitable chassis.......

I've just replaced my front discs, cost about £25 delivered off the 'bay. Had juddering and couldn't detect run out but new fronts have sorted the problem. Well done for getting on the road and enjoy.

Remember no-one has yet been able to use someone else's map to get their exact same setup running properly. That's why I freely give out the few maps I have, just to help people get going to some degree, with the proviso that they probably won't work that well and be careful about resulting damage. They do seem to be better than most base maps though. In addition my setup doesn't need to meet IVA requirements, as car was SVA'd with an '89 pinto, so the emissions go off that. Having said that my CO and HC are less than that, and without a cat. Sorry to say this but unfortunately the only way is to get a proper rolling setup done. Many others have tried to avoid this, but to no avail with the Emerald setup. Its not just about idle but also the higher rpm test. It really is very very hard to try and do this on your own. In principle it should be as easy as tweaking a carb screw and moving a dizzy but in reality it seems to be a real art..... If you must try yourself you can sit with the laptop connected with the gas analyser as well and reduce fuelling using the function keys at idle, also at the higher ranges, but its about pushing the ignition curve as far as possible without pinking as well. Headspin combination unless you're experienced. Remember the rolling road investment - do it once and do it properly - and once done, its done for good and there's no fettling required. Good luck.

We'll be down in the N Forest that weekend on hols, albeit in the Santa Fe and a sodding huge caravan. We stay at Holmsley normally but most of the Forest Holidays camp sites in the Forest are really nice. Some don't have showers / loos so be careful if / when booking. Cheers

2993cc 1979 car year (thus probably older engine) Ford Sapphire originating 4 speed box I am certain that will be an Essex V6, prob originating from the S Africa market somewhere. 200bhp possible but modifications extensive to get that. Normally about 140-150bhp. Very heavy as was also designed to be a diesel but was never built in that form (hence recessed pistons for the petrol). Parts getting scarcer but a few places around still, timing gear can be weak on old engines, gudgeon pins can come loose and score bores - engine then scrap, good secondhand ones getting dear, my Dad recently bought one out of an old Transit ambulance off ebay for reasonable money and upon stripping it was scrap. Nice engines though. And of course the probs above a fairly rare if well looked after or rebuilt. Only reason I know all this rather sad info off the top of my head is we have an AC3000ME with that engine in the family. CMA on here used to have an Essex V6 kit car (non RH) and had trouble with it as I remember trying to help him source a replacement with my Dad's contacts, he may offer some more advice as well. Have a look on the Burton Power website, they do bits, there's also HERE but not sure still trading. Scimitar, AC, Cobra replica and older TVR clubs can also be helpful if you do buy it and have trouble. Good luck

Ha Ha I passed him on the M69 on the way to Stoneliegh and headed straight to the chip van when I got there. Made my mouth water following....had to pass!!!!!!!!!!

Mine was initially mapped at R J Bradley and Son, Station Garage, Shipton Under Wychwood, Oxfordshire OX7 6BQ. Website HERE Not as good as Emerald on the ECU front but pretty good. They do carbs and jetting as well so should be able to look after you Cheers

Whereabouts in Warks are you? I take mine into work in Rugby quite a lot so might not be far either as well.....

Hi Joe Ring dave at Emerald and ask him. What you will probably find is that to get the ultimate result you will need to go and visit him, but you can get yourself on the road first by going elsewhere. Mine was mapped at a place in Oxfordshire recommended by Emerald. It ran OK but had a few flat spots and was not good at the top and bottom ends of the rev range. Finally took a day off 2 years ago ish and drove over to Norfolk and let Dave work his magic. He took it from 160 up to 175bhp, raised the torque curve, and turned it from a fun car into a fairly lunatic one, but one which is still happy to pootle around. Also did me a track, road and economy map on the 3 way switch. I can't remember whether I have given you any of my maps but I have a few you can try. Experience suggests its unlikely they will work, but there's a first time for everything. If you want them PM me your email address and I'll send them over. Cheers

Pic attached if that helps

Mine has one fitted for the zetec conversion - confess to not fitting it myself as I bought my 2b completed at 'teething probs' stage just after zetec fitment (sold a good but older S7 to buy it!!) If Rich Hall or Carl Leonard are on the board they'll know what pedal box it is but does have a bias adjustment, works well, not had any probs with that part of the installation. Thanks

My old S7 (Mk 1 Sierra) now in new hands but still very well and on the road always had some variation here, in fact it was both vertical and horizontal. True wheel alignment was all Ok I always put it down to it being a kit and the chassis / arches tolerances not perfect, the dimensions never changed over thousands of miles and having seen it at shows since hasn't changed either. Just keep an eye on it in my view if nothing's obviously mechanically wrong.

Cheers Jez Contact isn't the problem. Loads of spring and movement left in the brushes Just the Mountney boss slip ring holes are off centre. Thanks

Jez Have one too you can borrow for a fair while, no rush (well hopefully anyway!!!!) Cheers

Yes do have 3 springs, central horn button works fine. Its definitely an alignment issue. Looking at slip ring and boss they aren't quite lined up. Although not had a problem before I'm now thinking ditch this arrangement and just wire in a push button next to steering wheel to operate horn relay. Will get through MOT at least!

Have now traced problem back to slip ring, which I didn't think was the case originally. Whatever I do I can't seem to get it to work properly even though everything seems aligned. There's no adjustment in the contacts and the slip ring is fixed. Just don't know where to go with it next. Has anyone else had any trouble here? Its definitely in this area as when I remove wheel again and short across the contacts horn works. Removed slip ring and Mountney horn push switch and pressed up against contacts, pressed button and it works. So must be an alignment issue with the contacts and slip ring. Guess I could just wire in a push switch on dash next to wheel to operate horn relay but that's not ideal. Thanks for any ideas.

No probs, just PM me your email address and I'll send you several to try. Its likely none of them will work well, seems like everyone has to go on rolling roads even if exact same setup. Never quite worked out why! Thanks Andy

Hi all, I've hit an issue with electrics which is a weak area of my knowledge!! After replacing rod ends and properly centreing the rack (wasn't before) I removed steering wheel from column and turned it one hex section round to align. Then set front tracking with wheel straight. Horn now only works very intermittently. Sometimes horn just comes on when turning steering wheel or it 'blips' when operating hazards. Very strange and never done that before. Can't see any issues with the contacts on boss ring and that all seems to be properly located. MOT runs out next week (great timing) - no point in sending as is. Before I start diving into wiring diagrams etc has anyone any simple suggestions? One interesting point is that one 'fault' I've always had and lived with is that intermittent wipers have never worked - but strangely will kick in if turned on and indicator is activated. Have I got an earthing issue somewhere? Suggestions welcomed. Cheers

Passed you on the M69 just after the Hinckley junction - looked good.

Had a really good day there on Sunday. Cracking drive down and passed the veg oil powered car on the M69 (sorry don't know who you are) and ended up in a decent convoy. Followed a RHOCAR badged silver Vectra on Cov bypass and down to Stoneleigh, think it had followed me for a while as well, I gave directions at top of slip road (not signposted which was crazy if you were a newcomer), again never managed to catch up with whoever that was in the show. Didn't get much of a chance to chat to lots of people as had son and my Dad in toe but nice to see so many there. Thought the show was OK, Graham that zero is an absolute cracker, shame that some of the more family oriented stuff (fairground type rides etc) was missing, my 5 year old got a bit bored after a while, but OK it is a kit car show I guess. Thought our stand was excellent and the best turn out as usual. Must get a pass to camp over at some point soon. Glad everyone seemed to enjoy it. Had a very windy drive back - hope everyone else got back OK with no major dramas. Andy

Ah OK that's interesting....never got round to it this weekend so will try that instead during the week. Got the rubbers from HERE bought the type 1 boots. Looks like they will fit OK. Cheers for all the advice.

Cheers all - definitely Sierra TRE's have confirmed now. Bought some boots for about £4 off the net. Just got to get a ball joint splitter and will do this weekend, not a big job really.