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Theducks Build To Date In (Not So) Brief (Anymore)


theduck

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Rubber bush -- metal around to suit --- when assembled drive/press tapered steel bushes through centre to pre-load rubber ( as per the old Mini top engine steadys )

 

But then again would probably spend all day on this !!

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Guest 2b cruising

It's the right amount of rubber to take out the vibration that counts Bob.

That's why there is such a lot of rubber in the original mounts.

It's shape like a v form on the original is also designed for a reason with that material.

The more rubber, the more noise insulation. The more rubber the more movement.

Getting the balance right is not that easy.

The old classic mini ones were pretty rubbish and failed from all kind of faults.

Sheared bolts not strong enough for design. Torn rubber, worn rubber. The only good thing is they were easy to change.

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Spoil-sport !! The kit car hobby is another name for a pass-time ---- make it yourself & a lot of time passes ---sometimes not very productively but when it is you have achieved somethingother than bolting part "A" onto part "B".

 

There was a typo in my first ramble --- had an "i" instead of an "a" in pass.??

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I've done more making bits or making bits fit then I ever expected to when starting this build.

 

Got the prop in tonight, that's fun on a monocoque! Ended up with the prop cable tied to a length of wood to keep it straight, sliding it in to place and attached to gearbox then holding the prop while mrs duck pulled on the wood (ooh err).

 

Will pick up the diff mount tomorrow and ready for the weekend then to fit the diff an build it back up.

 

Keep forgetting I need to sort the throttle linkage. Not sure whether to have a go myself or get a more experienes welder to do it.

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Guest 2b cruising

If you are not in a rush, what is wrong with a bit of a play.

Find a bit of metal the same thickness, and have a little practice first.

Always worth buying a decent arc active helmet. You can actually alter the lense to suit your eyes once you have arced up.

I said arced. Sounding like a kicking k not a curly c sounding like an s.

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Guest mower man

I presume you have a flat floored mono car i.e the gear box is boxed in ,I must have been lucky prop removal was a lazy 10 mins on your back and fitting just as easy :crazy: mick

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Steve Walford's great, he let me stay in the sound proof enclosure with him while he did the tests so I could see the ignition map,rpm and tps and also the torque and power curves on his screens as they were produced. He told me to stand at the front of the car because if the transmission seized while it was on the rollers the car gets thrown backwards!

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Great morning down at Steves. First thing he said to me when he heard it start up was "that doesn't sound like a pinto". When we compression checked it we found out why. Readings were

 

175

25

25

175

 

So rocker cover off, and quickly diagnosed as the exhaust tappets being adjusted wrong and so on 2 and 3 the exhaust valves were staying open. Adjusted correctly saw the middle two rise to 150. Steve thinks will improve with use because of it having run with them staying open.

 

Then did a base power run, adjusted the jetting, and another run and finished up with 67bhp with better power for longer and a much bette drive home than the drive there.

 

I know 67bhp isn't a lot, but it is about what I could expect of this engine and so I'm happy with that, for now anyway.

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That must have been running like a 2 legged dog ! 67 at the wheels? so if its a 2.0 litre its down on power allready mick :sorry:

 

Was running surprisingly well, according to steve the only symptom would have been a lack of power, which I had put down to wrong jetting. Its an early version 1.6 with 32/36 carb so the power is about what could be expected. I'll run it like this for a season while starting to build up a 2.0 or 2.1.

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