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Pre-Iva Tire Kicking


WallerZ

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The E mark proves that the item meets the required standard in whichever country the mark related to E1 - Germany, E2 - France, E11 - UK etc.

However the required standard will vary between individual countries (as will the interpretation of the same standard) - much like IVA itself.

 

However the key thing is that once an item it E marked in one country, it's then (generally) accepted by other countries as being OK - even though it might not actually meet their standard. It's should also be noted that certain countries are more 'relaxed' about their approvals that others so a manufacturer of say aftermarket lamps who wished to get them E marked, might go to Turkey rather than the UK to get their approval.

 

This is a common occurance with OEM vehicles where for example a vehicle sold in the UK that may have been approved in Germany, doesn't actually comply with the UK standard but is still allowed to be sold here.

 

If you've ever wondered why the exterior styling of Audi's look so crisp and sharp, it's because they actually use much smaller radii on the exteriors of their cars, which are then approved in Germany. In the UK the minimum radius permissible would be around 2.5mm (similar to the IVA standard) so in principle, an Audi would fail IVA in exterior projections!

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I'm going to just take a briefcase of money for the IVA examiner, sounds like it'll be easier! Haha!

Well I'm not going to change the mirrors now, if they flag it up I'll make people aware and GBS too, I can't imagine it will be a problem though if they're e-marked surely??

 

Just a quick side question. Chassis VIN, can that be inscribed on (can get access to one quite easily) or does it have to be stamped?

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Chassis VIN must be on a plate that is welded onto the chassis on the drivers side - or in my case - stamped onto a part of a chassis member.

 

I suppose if you engraved it (Capitals only I think) and it's deep enough (no space allowed between letters) AND then welded on the chassis, it should be ok.

 

My opinion only

Simon.

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You need two VIN Plates. One, either welded to the chassis on the driver side, or stamped into the chassis. The second one can be riveted some place else such as the firewall. However, the second one must also have the manufactures name either stamped or engraved onto it as well.

 

Nige

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I suppose if you engraved it (Capitals only I think) and it's deep enough (no space allowed between letters) AND then welded on the chassis, it should be ok.

 

 

That's what I did on mine as I knew the stainless chassis would be difficult to stamp. Had the VIN laser engraved on a strip of stainless steel and then welded that to the chassis. Passed IVA at Derby no problems.

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Bloody hell that's come in a lot since I last saw it!

 

I don't hang about ;) Just think, February/March it was still only a spaceframe chassis! Even I can't get my head around how it used to be!

 

Ok, I'm going to go for engraving it direct to the chassis - making sure its deep and legible. Worst case is that I have to re-do it on a strip and weld it in (can get that at a push if needed)

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Guest aidankinnell

VIN letter and numbers need to be 3.5mm minimum, my numbers failed as only 3mm. Letters were fine and all from the same stamp set!

 

My grill failed, went for a fancy '7' style, failed on: 16 Exterior Extensions RS8 gaps that have a gap greater than 40mm determined by the contact points of a 100mm sphere must have a curved radius of at least 2.5mm. Interpret as you wish.

 

Trim/cowling required under the steering colum to hide any exposed ignition wiring.

 

Just a few thoughts from my recent attempt.

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