Sierra Master Brake Cylinder Wanted

[FERRINO]

Evening all - As in title, finally getting round to trying to connect up the brakes on the heap.

 

The master cylinder I have came from the previous builder and when I came to fit it found it was seized and took a good whack to free it. The pedal is now moving but it seems to be only actuating the rear circuit so I'm sure the cylinder has had it really.

 

I tried to dismantle it as per the haynes manual instructions but mine doesn't seem to have a circlip to remove to get the pistons out.

 

I know its a long shot, but If anybody has a servicable one lying around in the garage I'd be glad to swap for some beer tokens rather than shell out £80'ish on a new one.

 

Cheers

Tony

[theduck]

£40 on brakes internaational

 

http://brakeparts.co.uk/#page=parts&pageSection=BHA&mancode=FORD&brand=FORD&model=SIERRA&modelversion=SIE1*2.0+OHC+(82-89)+models

 

much better than buying 3 or 4 second hand ones like I did and finding they all need new seals.

[FERRINO]

£40 on brakes internaational

 

http://brakeparts.co...*2.0 OHC (82-89)+models

 

much better than buying 3 or 4 second hand ones like I did and finding they all need new seals.

 

Ah ok - nice one cheers. Must admit I'd much prefer a new one rather than risk the same thing again.

 

I'll give them a bell in the morning - Cheers Duck!

[Guest chris brown]

Make sure you get the correct one as there are 2 different ones with the mounting flange different but not hat different so as to recognize it when apart. So check make and or number I seem to remember one is Gurling marked up Ford and the other is Bendex.

[FERRINO]

Had a proper result at the weekend. I won this brand new master cylinder off Ebay for £32.50 delivered!

 

I only won it 10am Saturday and it was here when I got home from work tonight lol!

 

[biksz]

I was gonna put ebay do them cheap enough new lol

[Mitch]

As Chris says be careful. My doner was a 1.6 Sierra. On a j plate one of the last and has such seemed to have been a what's left use that attitude from Ford. And my master cylinder was the version from a p100 pick up took the motorfactors to find correct one. And he knew by looking what it was

 

 

Mitch

[richyb66]

Had a proper result at the weekend. I won this brand new master cylinder off Ebay for £32.50 delivered!

 

I only won it 10am Saturday and it was here when I got home from work tonight lol!

 

 

That's a bargain, the pressed steel mounting flange Lockheed cylinders are usually twice the price of the cast Girling one. I think I pad £75 for the one I bought 3 years ago.

[FERRINO]

That's a bargain, the pressed steel mounting flange Lockheed cylinders are usually twice the price of the cast Girling one. I think I pad £75 for the one I bought 3 years ago.

 

Exactly what I thought - The cheapest exact same model on Ebay is £79.99 'buy it now' - so thought £32.50 delivered was a proper bargain. It's definitely the exact same master cylinder as the one I'm replacing too - even has the same numbers on that plastic ring tag at first glance.

 

I've got to re-do the whole brake line system on the car now though . The previous builder gave me the 25ft roll of copper line he had bought to do the brakes with and I recently bent all the lines to shape in the chassis. Foolishly though I bought a 'cheapy' £18 Sealey brake flaring kit (despite all the warnings on forum sites and youtube about them). The thing is rubbish and I can't get it to produce a proper shape flare despite many-many attempts and have screwed up most of the bent runs trying to do them now. I even managed to screw up the brass T piece for the rear lines because of it. One of the flares looked 'ok' - so I popped it into the T piece and started to tighten the male insert. The shape must have been wrong though because as it tightened it started to 'squash' the copper to the shape it should have been and sent the insert off at angle which then stripped the soft brass thread

 

So after a John Cleese style tantrum where I angrily 'ripped' all the copper lines out of the car and then started 'thrashing' it with them - I calmed down and did a bit more research. The realisation that your braking system is actually pretty important hit home - I decided to do the job properly. So I've thrown the knackered copper lines away and bought a reel of kunifer (cunifer - however its spelt) as I'm a little concerned that several countries have now banned the use of the 'non alloyed' type copper in brake systems. I suspect the problems they may have seen were more to do with the runs being inadequately supported rather than the material itself - but decided not to risk it either way as its basically the same price.

 

The worse bit was having to shell out £103 this morning though for a proper 'Sykes-pickavant' flaremaster tool to make sure they get done properly when I make attempt number 2 next week lol!

[Guest davidimurray]

Kunifer is so much easier to work with, I did my fuel lines in copper, was a nightmare!

 

With regard to your brake flaring tool is it the one with the clamps and saddle with screw down dies? I had a nightmare with mine to start with until I learnt the tricks. You need to experiment and find the right protrusion, I found on mine that the height of the die didn't always give a good flare. Having too much sticking out will cause the die to wander and you get offset flares - better a little less than too much. When your ready to go, dip the die in brake fluid before you start and wet the end of the pipe/clamp. Wind the die down slowly, when it feels tight, undo, and wet the die and pipe again with brake fluid, wind down again this time a bit harder, back off and repeat until the die is against the clamp.

 

Using the method above I managed to do all the flares on my car first time. Before that I was lucky to get 1 in 10!

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Tony

Granny and sucking eggs maybe but even with a posh machine you can still make a monkey of them.

 

Try several trial flares and don't forget the science behind "single flares" and "double flares"

 

If you get them wrong you will have leaks every were.

[FERRINO]

The first kit I bought was this one:-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK506-Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Cutting-Tool-Kit-Set-10pc-in-Carry-Case-/141190350861?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20df99c80d#ht_1200wt_1041

 

I watched all the youtube videos showing how to use these types of kit and read all the guides etc and it seemed pretty straightforward but I had several issues with it tbh. The first was that the de-burring tool was garbage (as they all stated on youtube) - too big and blunt. So used a counterink bit as suggested. The second (and most worrying) was that the the 3/16" insert did not just fit straight into the 3/16" tube even though it was straight and de-burred? I had to virtually force it to get it in. Tried cutting off several test pieces and several different de-burring methods with the same result - I'm assuming it's poor diameter tolerancing on the die. Once the die was forced in, I made sure the pair of clamp bars were flat/parallel and tightened up fully. I attached the press tool above and would set it to the right as that's the way it turns when you tighten (also as shown on the video's) and it clamped down ok. I always checked to make sure the pipe had not slid down in the clamp as suggested. Getting the insert out of the tube was just as hard as getting it in there and I always worried the die would break off inside. Most of the flares were instantly recognisable as garbage and I'm not convinced the ones that did at least look ok would actually seal properly

 

I've now bought this one (as it has the benefit of being easier to flare on the car if required and has good reports):-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330620428606?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3049wt_1041

 

That's interesting what you said about dipping the tube and die in brake fluid David - never heard of that before tbh.I guess it's acting as a lubricant to help achieve the correct shape? Tbh I mostly just blindly followed the instruction to have the pipe protrude to the end of the wide ledge on the die - but I did try a couple setting the protrusion to exactly 3/16" with the verniers with the same result.

 

I'm hoping the new tool will be infinitely better quality and much easier to use (it should be really considering the price difference) - but will definitely be trying several test pieces until they look right - will probably post them up on here for opinions.

 

Cheers

Tony

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Back in the day when Nelsons dog was a pup, and I was making brake pipes on an almost daily basis I had an old file with out a handle and used to pop the pointy end into the pipe and twist it , end de-burred and made popping the flare mandrel into the pipe easy.