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Cooling System - Build Method


nelmo

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I may be over-analysing this so apologies if it is a stupid question but...

 

I'm not using a water rail and I have a bit of a maze of ally pipes and silicone rubber bends. The final result will have a potential world record for number of jubilee clips in one engine bay :-)

 

When joining a silicone pipe to an ally pipe, is there a correct amount of pipe that must fit into each? Do I use as much pipe of each as I can (ie. a lot of overlap) or just enough to get the jubilee clip on (with a few mm either side)?

 

Intuitively, it would seem that the more overlap, the better but maybe not?

 

See very bad diagram I've attached...

 

ba60ff4c-7a99-4533-9ff9-369d99ad0b68.png

Edited by nelmo
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Guest chris brown

About twice the width of a jubilee clip is about right any more and it can be a right pig to get pipes apart after a few years. Any less and the clip may not be fully on the inner pipe.

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Bad practice to put a silicone pipe on a straight ally pipe. Silicone is very low friction material, even when clamped. The ally pipe must have a swaged end so there is a shoulder. The clamp then holds behind the shoulder and compression prevents the pipes moving.

 

Nigel

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Bad practice to put a silicone pipe on a straight ally pipe. Silicone is very low friction material, even when clamped. The ally pipe must have a swaged end so there is a shoulder. The clamp then holds behind the shoulder and compression prevents the pipes moving.

 

Nigel

Balls - really? Is there a simple method to manually swage a pipe? I don't want to pay a fortune for a dedicated tool...

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I tried allsorts when building mine even string soaked in epoxy and wrapped round the tube, punching a series of dots around the inside of the pipe ( I had a lot of aluminium tube from a tv aerial mast) .

 

Nothing really worked well except bicycle inner tube between the pipe and hose and clamped with the threaded bar type hose clamp.

 

In the end after chasing leaks for a year the method I found best in the end was to buy some of these

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Alloy-Hose-Joiners-Silicone-Pipe-Metal-Connector-Swaged-Beaded-Long-/190884993451?var=&hash=item2c71a1d9ab:m:mhPwcOjv1lF198ByGZ-FVFA

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I don't presume to question more experienced people but none of the GBS kit has swaged pipes and apart from the 100mm section in ozz's post, I can't find anyone selling decent lengths with swaged ends.

 

I'll just stick with what I have and hope the clamps are enough...

 

Back to the original question - if I overlap a lot, I might need 2 clips, no? One where each pipe ends?

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Guest 2b cruising

If in doubt I use two mikalor clamps on each end.

I live near bluebel hill near Maidstone Kent.

I earned the man company I worked for countless thousand of pounds going to the midway point of the hill to replace silicone turbo hoses and double clamps.

I never went out to the same truck twice after doing that.

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Florin's plumbing is copper pipe for all the bits that are on the engine & just a few standard hoses for engine to radiator & heater connections -- soldered joints copper pipe to copper unions & soldered olive to create a "swaged end" where changing to flexi-hose.

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An alternative to Mikalor clamps is the JCS Hi-torque, fraction of the cost, bigger range of adjustment on each size of clamp. They may look like a standard Jubilee type clamp but with the recommended 15Nm tightening torque they hold well - we use them on engines with over 5Bar pressure (70PSI old school) on silicone hose.

 

Rich

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