Handbrake

[keith kelly]

not got one ozz

but I do have a pumped weed killer tank which I will convert

I got one

[knights_templar]

Air in a fluid under pressure is compressed heated and dissolves eezibleed does all of these things to any trapped air and then when the nipple is opened micro bubbles form and are expelled with the clean fluid being pushed through under pressure... Physics

 

interesting theory, can you post where the physics comes from, always been told to keep air, that tends to contain water, away from brake fluid, which is Hygroscopic.

[ozz]

 

interesting theory, can you post where the physics comes from, always been told to keep air, that tends to contain water, away from brake fluid, which is Hygroscopic.

Sorry can't post what I learned in school if you want to look it up its Henry's Law

[knights_templar]

Yes, Henry's law, did not consider that the eezbleed was able to work at the pressures, or generate the temperatures where Henry's law would have an effect with brake fluid.

 

Just interested where it was documented it was.

[tractor]

I am only assuming that the handbrake is hydraulic because I can move the handbrake lever on the calliper from stop to stop with one finger there is no resistance at all so assuming there is trapped air having an effect

[knights_templar]

Big_jim asked earlier if they are Sierra calipers. I may have missed your answer, can you confirm this?

[tractor]

can only confirm they are ford cos its stamped on them and the pads and handbrake are for a sierra

[jaimo]

If sierra they wont be hydralic they were all cable operated although i could be wrong suspect problem with the adjuster chris did u have to wind or push piston in

Edited July 11, 2016 by jaimo

[jaimo]

Any part numbers on caliper i can check it for u

[ozz]

I assume they are not the rusty ones I gave you they were xr4x4

[richyb66]

From looking at your LSD thread, your calipers look the same a mine which came off a Scorpio so it seems a fair bet Sierra and Scorpio are the same. I pulled my calipers to bits to fit new seals and the handbrake mechanism is mechanical. Operating the handbrake lever causes a push rod in the caliper to operate a smaller piston that is inside the main piston and pushes against the inside face.

 

There’s also a self adjuster inside the caliper which seems to use the difference in hydraulic pressure either side of the smaller piston to gradually take up the slack. I think it’s a fair bet that if there’s air in the caliper, the adjuster may not work. Basically, if you operate the handbrake lever manually, it should be too stiff to move by hand (so you need some leverage on it – I used a ring spanner hooked over the end), and then you should see the piston move as long as the main piston is fully wound back in to the caliper. On my calipers one piston didn’t move and the lever was easier to operate. I pulled the caliper to bits again and the circlip that retains the self adjuster spring had popped off. I hadn’t seated it correctly and the retainer and spring were loose.

 

However the circlip is a sod to fit, difficult to get to and you have to compress the spring which is very awkward. I did this:

 

Have some sturdy circlip pliers that have at least about 40mm reach, if you haven’t don’t even bother starting. Get the piston out of the caliper and take the circlip out of the piston and remove the part inside that has the coarse threaded nut part of the adjuster on it – you need this to compress the spring. I then got a 12mm domestic rad tail (thread one and that screws in to the rad and then a 15mm plain shank the other end that the lockshield valve olive clamps on to).

 

The plain shank part will fit inside the spring and it’s top hat shaped retainer but you need to trim the shank down or it’s too long (see later). Hold the caliper in a vice so the piston bore is vertical and fit the spring and retainer over the adjuster screw. Then fit the rad tail so the threaded end is at the top. You can then screw the adjuster nut on to the end of the screw and the rad tail will compress the spring. If you do a trial fit first, you can gauge how much you need to trim off the tail – the step on the end on the thread where is meets the thread is the bit that compresses the spring retainer. You need to compress the retainer fully in to the caliper but be careful it goes in centrally or the end of the retainer will catch the caliper bore, bend and stop the circlip fitting. The adjuster nut that you need to tighten has 3 holes in it, I used 2 of them and a pair of circlip pliers to tighten the nut. Once the spring and retainer are fitted, you can fit the circlip – my personal best for this is about 10 minutes so be patient.

 

With the circlip fitted, remove the spring compressor and then use a small screwdriver to make sure the circlip is fully engaged in to its groove. Should take about as long to do as it’s taken me to write this up.

[knights_templar]

 

But don't know if the adjuster requires hydraulics, found they tend to work on the bench, but that may be flook

Edited July 11, 2016 by knights_templar

[tractor]

Think I will give ken's suggestion a go before I start taking calipers apart

[Guest 2b cruising]

If you have flexi going direct to it, just a little backing of the adjusters then two mounting bolts.

Don't forget to block the pads out though.

[Guest mower man]

Why o WHy do you guys have to get so bl--dy complicated the hand brake is actuated mechanicaly the pad running clearance is hydraulic ok ,if the bleed nipple is at the bottom the calipers on the wrong bl--dy side , no matter where the pipes run it is Very doubtful you will get air trapped in the lines bleed the old way , 2 person tube and clear bottle ,end of tube covered by fluid floor pedal open bleed nipple close when either fluid or air cease ,lift pedal and repeat ensure res is at least part full at all times simples innit! mick