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Pinto Efi trouble after winter


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After any advice what so ever.

so after taking the Robin Hood for IVA back in November I Decided to park her up in the garage until now  and then do the remedial works ready for retest at the end of the month. When i parked her up she was running fine{excellent in fact). Now i cant get her to run at all, shes flooding as soon as fireing up, Ive removed plugs and dried up cylinders replaced plugs and fired up, ok for abour 15 seconds and then floods again. Ive checked timing, leads, plugs are fireing fine whilst out but put them back in and it floods up rightaway after a short run. what are peoples thoughts on the ECU packing up througe winter or can anyone point me in the right direction as  to a sensorto check. Im totally baffled, 

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Does the exhaust smell rich/fuelly or sooty?

Have you looked at the air flow meter? is there anything preventing movement of the vane inside?

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1 hour ago, Grim said:

Does the exhaust smell rich/fuelly or sooty?

Have you looked at the air flow meter? is there anything preventing movement of the vane inside?

Yes the exhaust is very rich with white smoke when it runs temporarily. Air flow meter works. 

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10 minutes ago, IanS said:

White smoke can be steam due to leaking head or inlet gasket.

Was there enough antifreeze?

Yes and I ain't losing any water just smell of fuel 

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I diagnosed a number of faults with my EFI Pinto using an electric drill to turn the dizzy. You can hear the injectors clicking without the noise of the starter motor. I had a spare dizzy which made it easy. I have also attached some information regarding the system which may help.

 

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Ok can I ask you say it floods. So do I take it the plugs are wet ?  Plumes of black smoke while it’s running bad smell of petrol ?? 

What are the symptoms you actually have please. 

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Today I stripped down the injectors,  when cracking the fuel line the bar was still pressurised does this mean the injectors are not stuck open. I've lost no water so maybe not a gasket, exhaust puffing white smoke when I can briefly get it to run and it smells very rich. I have ordered a second hand ecu and I have checked all injectors on a 12v supply. Anything else I've missed. Thanks for all your replies. 

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There is a pressure  regulator that releases excess fuel from the fuel line back to the tank/swirl pot keeping a constant pressure in the fuel line.

If it is stuck closed then the fuel line will over pressurise and the injectors will pass to much fuel.

When the high pressure pump is running is fuel returning to the tank/swirl pot?

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3 minutes ago, IanS said:

There is a pressure  regulator that releases excess fuel from the fuel line back to the tank/swirl pot keeping a constant pressure in the fuel line.

If it is stuck closed then the fuel line will over pressurise and the injectors will pass to much fuel.

When the high pressure pump is running is fuel returning to the tank/swirl pot?

I'm not sure. I suppose a way of checking that would be to remove the hose from the bottom is that correct. It sounds possible as all plugs are wetting up. Thanks for the advice I will check tomorrow. 

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Is it possible the plugs are wet because of a poor spark causing a misfire? Oxidation / dampness in the rotor cap/arm, or dirty/damp ignition leads. Clean the ht cap (and oxidation of the terminals in the cap), rotor arm and leads etc.

Check out the air flow meter wiring by backprobing the connectors in the ecu as per the instructions in Derek's post. Looks like you should measure 0.5 to 4.8v over pins 25 and 46 (or maybe 25 and 43?) when the vane in the AFM is moved. I'll have to check the diagram in the haynes manual - I've got scribbled notes in my manual I've made from when I did it last.

Also check out any earth connections, there are a few in the engine loom.

Whenever I've seen problems with overfuelling it's been AFM related - but running was very lumpy and it was spitting out plenty of soot.

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9 hours ago, Grim said:

Is it possible the plugs are wet because of a poor spark causing a misfire? Oxidation / dampness in the rotor cap/arm, or dirty/damp ignition leads. Clean the ht cap (and oxidation of the terminals in the cap), rotor arm and leads etc.

Check out the air flow meter wiring by backprobing the connectors in the ecu as per the instructions in Derek's post. Looks like you should measure 0.5 to 4.8v over pins 25 and 46 (or maybe 25 and 43?) when the vane in the AFM is moved. I'll have to check the diagram in the haynes manual - I've got scribbled notes in my manual I've made from when I did it last.

Also check out any earth connections, there are a few in the engine loom.

Whenever I've seen problems with overfuelling it's been AFM related - but running was very lumpy and it was spitting out plenty of soot.

Thanks will check all this out over weekend going to be busy. 

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Just now, Lee Raybould said:

Thanks will check all this out over weekend going to be busy. 

I must add I've renewed all plugs, leads, distributor, rotor arm and coil, all the basics getting frustrated now as it was running perfect and needs to be on the 29th as booked for iva. 

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