cb750

Go for it I know how you feel! This is the way I did it. I covered the bonnet with 75mm wide masking tape to protect it marked the centre line and cut it in half with a 22 tooth hacksaw blade ( I don't trust my angle grinder for this). Refit the bonnet to make sure that it still lines up then took 2 more cuts to allow 8mm for the hinge pin. Cut the hinge to length making sure that the hinge sections are equally balanced and mark out for the rivets or in my case m4 dome head bolts and nuts on the bonnet sections. Drill the holes in the bonnet sections, I used a 4.1 carbide drill in a bench drill, then clamp the sections one at a time to the hinge and drill through. I put nuts and bolts in at about 4 hole intervals as I went to keep everything straight. Dismantle it, slightly countersink all holes and assemble. That's basically how I did it.

Yes Bob, just the metal centre that has the female 23 tooth spline in it. Rob

Yes it's fixed, the difficult part was getting the angle of the brackets correct. To get the bonnet off you undo the front bracket bolt (the knurled part helps you spin the bolt with your fingers) and remove the bracket then slide the bonnet forward lifting up at the same time and the bonnets off.

Best winter mod finished! Bonnet converted to centre hinge type giving easy access and only a couple of minutes to lift off.

Has anyone got a scrap Pinto/Type 9 clutch friction plate they don't want? I just need the 23 splined steel centre section from it for a project tool that I need to make.

Are you using the enrichment (choke) while its warming up as it may run rough until the engines warm. As above, check the balance on the carbs first then tweak the mixture screws

Just looked at the Burton site, it looks like the cable comes with an adjuster

You need to provide some sort of cable length adjuster similar to the motorcycle one. That will allow you fine adjustment of pedal take up position and also compensate for any future cable stretch

When I bought my car it had a long deep scratch on the scuttle which spoilt it. I used wet and dry paper from 240 down to 2000 grit in stages working each grade paper at right angles to make sure each grit was worked out. Finished with Solvol Autosol. Looks good and has a high shine, certainly better than the deep scratch BUT as said above, you won't get the original mirror finish back. Be warned, it took 2 days to do as I had to do the whole scuttle to blend it in! Good job I'm retired!

Mine are fireblade carbs so can't help with yours but mine have a barrel nipple soldered on the end of the cable, the cable then hooks on to the operating mechanism. My choke (enrichment) cable is operated by the original Ford bonnet release that's on the steering column.

Found one photo of pedal box end of mine. I turned up a ball ended piece of hex to fit the pedal but you could make something similar without a lathe. Pedal stops allow you to adjust the total movement of the cable. Hope it helps, Rob .

Metals4u list 139 x 5mm wall. gives 129 ID https://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/c6/tube/c2239/tube/c56/139mm-od-x-5mm/p8864

The pinto is in the sierra manual. As above, find the year from the engine number (Burton Power has an ID chart) and get the manual to suit. I bought the early and late manuals as the early manual showed a strip down of the type 9 gearbox.

Used to use waxoyl every time but have changed to Dinitrol as its thinner and creeps better. Be warned, it WILL drip out if you use too much!

I had a set similar to those. The one problem I had was that the seat base "wings" have steel reinforcement with moulded hard foam over them. They pressed hard into the back of my legs and my wife found them really uncomfortable. I had a trimmer remove the seat base cover and alter the steel, cut away some of the foam and replace it with softer grade foam cut to shape. These gave a much more comfortable seat. It really depends how wide you are!

Did you drain the carbs before mothballing the car? If not then you may have to clean the float bowls out to get rid of possible "crud". Have you put fresh fuel in the tank?

Well done. Did you end up with 12mm or 10mm thick spacers as your final list shows 10mm?

Looking back at my original set up, I think the weight of the intake was the problem on mine. It's now been changed to a different set up pulling air in from the nose cone

Chris, I think it's a bit of belt and braces with me. I had the bank of carbs fall off just as was pulling into the driveway after a long fast run. Still don't know why as they were seated correctly and the Honda clips were nice and tight. Rob

I don't use the silicon hoses only the original bike rubber ones BUT I found I had to bracket the carb bank back to a manifold stud to take some of the weight. I haven't suffered with fuel level due to any increased vibration

I've used hockey stick wing piping (CBS no. TRMPI2) glued with Tigerseal into the rebate on the nose cone to take the front edge of the bonnet and ribbed neoprene sponge (CBS no. TRMRIB2) to take the back edge but it depends on what your catches will allow

As Stu says, I was recommended Rainsport 3s for all round use.

Shouldn't it read the same as both are 4 cylinder engines?

I fill mine to the top. The expansion coolant flows out to a collection tank and pulls back in to the expansion tank when the engine is off.

Depending on the type, bearingkits have 1 left www.bearingkits.co.uk/Ford-Sierra-&-Granada-Scorpio-MT75...