Snapperpaul

Remove bulb and feed wire, check ammeter case again, if it is still live and you have 2 wires going to it reverse the wiring. If the case is now not live replace bulb and try again. If the ammeter reads differently from the original set up, was it made for a positive earth car?

I will watch your build with interest as I looked at the lightweight when it was first advertised but was seduced by the cheap series 3 that i am building now. How far down the Lightweight route are you going to go, carbon fiber is bl**dy expensive and ally is not easy to weld. What is the projected weight?

Polzeth is good for the kids and as we only play a bit once a year, my knowledge ( once again ) is much bigger than my practical skills.

Thanks for that Longboarder ( Polzeath or Newquay). I am planning to move the rad the other side of the forward bulkhead, at an angle. The dummy fit was still tighter than i thought it would be.

Did a dummy fit of the engine and gearbox at the weekend ( Series 3), first fit was hindered by the gearbox mount leaving 3 inches if propshaft spline showing out the back of the gearbox tail shaft housing. I removed the gearbox mounting and will cut the tunnel further back to fit ( already cut it back to the 5 speed mark by robin hood). Second fit without gearbox mount and the engine sat with back of the head less than an inch from metalwork but there was still a good inch of shiny propshaft visible at the back of the tail shaft housing is this O.K or do i modify further?

90% adaptors that go into the gearbox are available from Burton performance, Europa and i think deamon tweeks.

is it just the angle angle of the photo or is there a problem with the sping to seat angle. This would cause the spring to bow towards the drive shaft under compression

I am getting a large inlet standard exhaust head that has been very heavily worked, comes with an RL22. Injection block and rods with better rod bolts should take the strain. Burton performance catalogue for info, Vulcan engineering and David Visards book/bible on the pinto. Info doesn't paste well.. sorry 280/66 Fast Road Slight loss of tractability slight 'off-cam' power band 2000-6500 std carb/DGAS/DGAV40s 135+ Modified head/4 branch Kent: FR32,FR22 Piper: HR270/2K,HR270 290/86 Fast Road Loss of tractability 'off-cam' below 2200ish power band 2200-7000 40s/45s 150+ Modified head/4 into 1 Kent: FR33,FR1,RL2 Piper: BP285K,HR285K 300/90 Road Rally Poor tractability, heavy 'off-cam' below 2750 power band 2750-7500 some stand-off, 40s/45s 160+ Big valve head, long 4-1 Kent: RL30,RL31,RL21 Piper:BP300K,HR300/2K 310/105 Rally Bad tractability, heavy 'off-cam' below 3000 power band 3000-7750 lots of stand-off, 45s/48s 170+ Big valve head, long 4-1 Kent: RL32,RL1,RL22 Piper:HR300K,BP320K 320+/112 Race BAD tractability,heavy 'off-cam' below 3500 power band 3500-8000+ mega standoff,45s/48s/50s 190+ Ultra big valve head, long 4-1 Kent: RC31,RC21,RC1,WR40,GP1 Piper: HR320K,HR320/2K,HR330K To calculate duration and overlap from a set of cam timing figures note that they are generally given with the inlet timing first, followed by the exhaust timing, for example:- Inlet Exhaust 36/76 76/36 In this example the inlet valve opens 36 degrees BTDC, and closes 76 degrees ABDC to calculate duration, add the two timing figures together then add 180:- E.G. 36 + 76 = 112 + 180 = 292 degrees duration To calculate overlap, add the first inlet figure to the last exhaust figure:- E.G. 36 + 36 = 72 degrees overlap For Pinto production cams valve lift is around .390 inches , fast road cams are generally around .400-.460, Rally/Race cams are .450-.510, with the more radical cams, clearances between valves and pistons do need checking. Generally the cam manufacturer can advise when this is necessary. Do not confuse cam lift with valve lift, valve lift is higher as there is a ratio imparted by the followers.

I have joined the Boba Fett club. The knowing look from Jane said it all. Back to the loanly garage where my phsycotic behavior will only threaten inanimate objects.

OH. how brave people are when they are not face to face. i am suprised it was not moderated or removed by some sort of filter. certainly if you get away with it the site would soon fill up with abuse and the more restrained of us would move on...........

I just love the polyurethane adhesive/sealant from car builder solutions, its got super glue in it and as long as you mask up you work area and clamp it in place it will stick like the glue that blankets have trouble with.

Mail boxes are full so i dont know if anything has been recieved will persevere over the next few days, mail me with some other email addresses if you can.

Check out my thread in donor loads of info. knowing Fords as i do it is possible that almost any diff can be found on almost any car. I am going to check the diff tag on mine when i drop the tank again, hindsight etc. I have a good deal of info on diffs from a few sources but as i have been told the only sure way is to count the teeth on the crown wheel and pinion. Befor doing that i will mark the wheel and the prop and rotate them and count.

Didn't the american interstate model have twin 22 gallon tanks, i suppose you could get rid of the passenger seat and fill it with a fuel cell.

Looked in the For Sale bit of Robin Hood Eng and saw the V12 jag engined car for sale £9,000. It caused a whole load of emotions from, buy it now to bloody death trap. you must admit it would always get attention especially when you filled up every 90 miles or so.

Thanks Mark, just what i needed I was trying to attach to the rear bulkhead and found it needed multiple angles and that made it difficult to get the sensor in the best position.

Its a way off for me however if you fit the mountney pad does that make the horn push inoperative?

Don't forget to renew the camshaft spray bar while its apart, only cheap and will prolong the camshaft life.

I am doing the same with a Telemetric's, I only have a small angled peice of ally at the moment and have mounted the magnets on the rear prop uj on my series 3. Any pics of your instalation would be welcome. You may have saved me a bit of a head ache i didn't even think about the magnetic effect if the surounding metal.

Next job for me then is to drop the tank and have a good look at the diff, if it is a 3.38 then no point in going further with the build until i have corrected this. I have my eye on a 2.0L DOHC 4x4 if it has a 3.92 then it will be on my drive in a week or two. Can i leave the subframe in place on my car and just swap the diff, halfshafts and discs. I have just fitted and sealed up the suspension covers on the Series 3. Just to clarify 20L DOHC EFI 4x4 should be a 3.92 LSD and its code should be somthing like 83BG AA 392

I used to use Britania/green flag but you have to name the car and i found with more than one car in the house the AA very good. If you've got one car go for the single car people like green flag more than one car AA/RAC, you can use the AA on any car you are in as "You are the member not the car". Here endeth the sales pitch............

Found this in my piles of info, 290/86 Fast Road Loss of tractability 'off-cam' below 2200ish power band 2200-7000 40s/45s 150+BHP Modified head/4 into 1 Kent: FR33,FR1,RL2 Piper: BP285K,HR285K Big inlet valves and some inlet/exhaust port matching, dont forget to match the gaskets to the ports, and it should have good BHP.

Vapour out of the oil filler, check all the breathers could be causing excess crank case presure.

clamp a magnet to the oil filter, that should help. i have had cars with magnetic sump plugs and mine were full of fileings not uncommon when you have moving parts under stress.

Saw a barbecue in the corner off the garage in one pic, is that for when you can't liberate the microwave?