alantoon

But I still fel a lot safer in the Kit than I do out on my cycle, it is just a case of doing what you enjoy but minimizing the risks.

I was looking at a switched solenoid cut off which I could fit near the tank outlet that would cut the flow in the case of a split pipe-also useful as an anti theft device. At about £13 it is an easy add-on

My Exmo has alloy brackets with a single hole to fit the RS type rubber mountings, I would guess that they were from an early model sierra mine was a 1986 doner. If you need a picture I can get one for you tomorrow, hope this helps, Alan

http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/rally/plumbed-in-systems-extinguishers/jjc-2-25ltr-msa-compliant-plumbed-in-mechanical-fire-extinguisher-system

very lucky Terry, get well soon,

The correct cam belt for the short block engine is - Gates Powergrip 5068 119 teeth x 3/4 inch. hope that helps.

No good, it's got no seats in the back so no use for the school run.

Well done, I have enjoyed the saga of your build, can't wait to see and hear it in the flesh. Don't worry about the cold -the adrenaline will keep you warm, get it out when you can.

Never heard of this problem until this post, whenever I have had a judder or a vibration problem it has always been found to have a different cause (one of the usual culprits).

Well done, with luck you might get it registered as a nice Xmas present to yourself,enjoy putting some miles on it.

It has a header tank. both the top hoses come from the thermostat housing and the header tank also feeds into it as well

The radiator has two feeds into the top is there any reason why I couldn't run the smaller one to a t-piece on the main top hose- it just seems to be the bypass from the thermostat housing. If I could do that then the choice of radiator opens right up. Any thoughts?

Does anyone know of a radiator with a layout similar to the one in photo, I don't really want to spend nearly £300 on a new Sprint one if I can get something similar from a scrap yard

On the subject of tool boxes has anyone got an older rollcab/toolbox than mine it is a 40 year old Snap-on box that has been dragged round most of the forests of England and Scotland and round all the Rallycross circuits as well. Still does the job though

I have done a bit of research into the history of mine and found out that they are a bit of a mix up of bits depending what they had available at the time, Mine has the earlier chassis (square box section with factory fitted stainless panels) but it has the Dolomite front suspension subframe grafted on, The Sprint engine is mated to aTR7 gearbox and a Dolomite rear axle.

Please children don't try this at home!!!!

I had a similar problem on a Ford turbo diesel and it was caused by a gunked up turbo, it was only cured when I change the turbo.

I am so pleased for you, nice to see that the DVLA have common sense sometimes.

This is the front suspension that is on the S7 and the rear is trailing arms and coil springs with the spring and shocker mounted on the bottom trailing arm.

Thanks for the info, If it is the TR& box what are the chances that it was one of Richards early tr7 based kits ie what is the difference between the Dolomite and Tr7 suspension.

The plan is to strip it down where required over the winter, I may even give the engine a rebuild but the first plan is to get it running enough to get it the 2o miles to home.

Well I bought it. It's a 1991 Dolomite Sprint based S7 with the stainless rear end and square box chassis and stainless panels. The engine is a Sprint engine running on Weber 40s mated to a 5 speed Triumph box and the Sprint back axle Very tidy for the year with nice blue and black trim and the Triumph wood dash. It has a problem with it running for a couple of mile the stopping but it doesn't appear to be fuel related as the filter is staying full, but it will get sorted.

I have the chance to buy an early Dolomite based S7 for not a lot of money, it is a two owner car from new and is all correct on the V5, Mot for 7 months and tidy. Problem is is it worth spending time on. I know nothing about the Triumph cars bot it would be an interesting project. Anyone got any thoughts or advice. Alan

I was always taught that you looked at the end you were joining the pipe to, if it was a single flare you made up a double flare to join it and vice versa. I agree with Mower Man do not take any risks with brakes if you are not sure get someone in to advise you.

My petrol smell came from the tank sender unit, it only leaked when I was driving about. Remember when you do any repairs do not use any type of silicon sealer it gunges filters, pump, carbs and any filters in the tank.