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I didn't know that - nice one Richy, guess what I'll be doing next time the magnet falls off...

I ran my second pink wire through a relay and it worked as it should. You still have to switch the circuits with the key to make it work or depends on how you wire up.

This might be relèvent might not. When I was wiring my 2b back in the day I had an awful time wiring up using vicky greens wiring harness schematic. In the end, a mate of mine a local auto electrician nailed it down to direct shorts and failures within the switch gear. I had three sets and all three were faulty. I did get there in the end with an exchange set from GBS. Just a thought

I made a bracket which sat the sensor on top of the prop shaft flange to diff and calibrated it on the speedo if I remember. One thing I do remember is the instructions said two magnets in opposing positions on the prop which recorded double speed against my satnav so I removed one of the magnets, and with no further calibration (I might actually be wrong here) I had a speedo. I then fitted GBS’s p&p loom and the speedo stopped so I wired it directly between sensor power and the dial. Only fails when the magnet falls off so I used some Jb weld and voilà hasn’t fallen off in 500 miles.

Scrapped that thought, I just bought an adaptor plate from J9 which will sit between the GBS thermostat housing and the head which has an M14 x 1.5 take off for the turbo coolant feed. Gosh, I'll have this running next week, thats going to be dangerous lol

Thanks all for your thoughts. I am now thinking that I can take off from the cylinder head temp sensor as this is just a sensor with no output. I have the GBS thermostat housing which provides me with both temp sensors for ecu and dial. But, there I was thinking this is straight forward that its a 1/8' npt so i ordered a 1/8" npt to an4 fitting to run coolant to the turbo and then on to the rad. Fittings arrived from Torques this morning and have just tried fitting them and no, the thread is finer than that of the npt. Any ideas would be gratefully received.

Richard, that’s great and thanks. But, can you tell me where on the cylinder head you took your feed from?

Thanks Dean, but it is unclear from the images at redseven as to where he takes the coolant feed from although both cars look quite spectacular. Cheers Craig

All, I hope you are all finding solace in your respective builds while this pandemic is raging. I started my nut and bolt rebuild to my GBS Std last December - with the rear end done and finished in no time with a completely new rear end, suspension, diff, drive shafts and hubs and brakes, I started on the front end. With the all of the suspension sorted in no time, I started on the engine bay. A refreshed hybrid ST170 block with RST pistons and steel rods ARP bolts, ported flowed BT cylinder head etc to make for a really strong engine. I have been beset by problem after problem with components being too large or not the right size - you know the gagg. One thing is changes and the repercussions and causality... I am now plumbing my newly acquired TOCA BTCC Owen Developments turbo in. While oil in and out is straight forward, my issue is where do I take the coolant feed from - there are. several opposing views on this, taking the feed from the lower intake from the radiator to the thermostat for take off. I also read somewhere that there is a port on the rear of the cylinder head for which a coolant take off could be had. Given my cramped engine bay and ease of access to the rear of the cylinder this would be my preferred option. My question is this, would it be OK to remove the 1/4" or 3/8" (not sure which at this time) plug and replace it with a coolant feed - my concern is that this isn't a plug for coolant? If anyone has an idea for this i"d be most grateful. Thanks in advance, Craig

I’ll take them if Foz doesn’t. Thanks Craig

Very interested in these but am not sure when I will be passing to collect and pay Thanks Craig

Yes although I’m using stand offs so the noggin out is a bit moot.

Hi Traktor, I was under the misapprehension that I had this sorted. However, this has now fallen through. Could I therefor bother you for your spare nr side st170 engine mount? thanks Craig

My apologies Lewis for hijacking your listing. Dean, I’ve been working on my zetec turbo build for most of this year. However due to having a young family my time is very limited although the new engine it in, I’d be interested in hearing about your ZT build. Thanks in advance Craig

Hmm, food for thought. Although having re-read Blue’s post it would seem logical to assume that I have said gearbox. I’ve just about sorted the engine mount issue and will fit a cable and see what’s what. Watch this space…

That would be awesome and thank you for your kind gesture. I did however go through the boxes of parts removed and labelled during removal of the na zetec and found exactly what you’ve referred to. I’m obviously having some elderly moments ahead of time as I now remember the removal perfectly but until reading the last post and then digging out the box labelled nr side engine mount I was at a loss. I now have a set of the steel tubes spacers which have just been painted. Any how, a big thanks to Tractor for helping out this rapidly ageing builder and for the other comments. Cheers Craig

Yes, this i purchased some time ago in advance of this installation. I reverted back to the original m12 bar with a spherical head which mates to the fork and held in place with a spring clip. I’m then able to adjust from outside the bell by way of a locking nut. Actually works well. As mentioned having spoke at length with GBS on this I decided to go ahead with the install and test once in - I now have engine installation issues as per my new listing in engines. Looks like it’s going to be a long hot summer in the garage…

So on to my next b**b hole!! Having taken out my na zetec in favour of a hybrid turbo zetec with st170 block I now find my next challenge. Anyone out there have an angle on the rwd st170 nr side engine mount and wishing to share? Please advise Thanks again Craig

The gearbox originally came from GBS with remote gear shift and adjustable clutch fork but was never fitted - I purchased it from another zero owner. That said, I did chat with GBS today and discussed the issue which they say seems ok but the only way to find our for sure is to fit the engine and try it. So fitted the engine this afternoon - wow, what an effort. I took out a Zetec n/a and I’ve fitted a hybrid turbo zetec with st170 block blah blah and found my next issue which I’ll post in engines shortly. If you’re in the know then you’ll understand my predicament with the nr side engine mount! Arrrrgh! Any how, I’m going to go with GBS’s input and see what happens when I finally get this engine in. Thanks again for now, I’ll post back shortly. Cheers, Craig

Hi Nelmo I think you undo yourself - I'm sure I take that position in builder speak... I spoke to GBS this morning and they assure me that I need their TRA0019 part which puts the clutch fork in the correct position. As it happens, I had bought one of these in anticipation of this very moment some time ago. The gearbox I had purchased had the original work around this issue, drilled and tapped and a M12 bolt with a filed end to fit the fork. This is adjustable as well but still gave this issue whereas the fork once engaged with bearing and pressure plate leaves around 1cm of travel for the clutch which is not nearly enough. I have an image of the fork at engagement of thrust bearing to pressure plate. As you can see it literally has around 1cm of travel before the fork runs out of space. Just to be clear, the bearing is a GBS part as is the fork pin. Any help with this would be gratefully received. Craig

Hi all, hope you’re all keeping well. I am replacing the current engine gearbox package with a zetec, mt75 gearbox, prop, diff and shafts with the diff, prop and shafts in and done it’s now onto bolting engine and gearbox together and installing into the car. My issue today is when mating gearbox to engine with new release bearing from GBS I literally have about an inch of meaningful travel on the clutch release fork. My flywheel is a light weight turbosport item, the clutch plate is a cg 5 paddle and the pressure plate is from a focus rs turbo. Any help would be gratefully received in working out why I have so little travel between thrust bearing engaging with pressure plate and full travel of the fork. Thanks in advance Craig

All sorted with supaforma making me a set of pcd adaptors. A big thank you to ‘theduck’

Superforma will manufacture to my exact specifications - thank you theduck Just so you know, I opted for the GBS 'new front end' - wow, what a work of art but the hubs are 4 x 100 and require bolts rather than nuts so for anyone looking to change its a new set of wheels or PCD adaptor and widen the front track by 40mm (2 x 20mm). Should add some new handling experiences rather than try and poop myself on my local roads...

Awesome and thanks for the information - will try them this coming week.

Hi, as in the title Wanted 4 x 100 to 4 x 108 pcd adaptor x 2 wheels Thanks Craig