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nelmo

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Posts posted by nelmo

  4. Pinto 2.0 Cooling System help

    in Engine

    Posted

    Is your coolant overflowing from the header tank when it gets hot?

    I had that happen on my Zetec (which is setup like yours) and the problem for me was the cap on the header tank - it wasn't holding in the pressure, allowing the overflow. I just replaced the cap (£7) and it has been fine since.

    It could, as you say, be an airlock but if your header tank is the highest point of the system (it should be), then less likely to be that.

    • Like 1

  5. E10 or E5

    in Engine

    Posted

    I'm sure there are sites that will tell you if your car will need e10 or e5. You'll have to put in the details of the donor for your kit (eg. Ford Sierra) because they wontbhave kits in the list. If you don't know the donor, I'd suggest finding a model of car that had your engine, roughly, and use that.

    Having said that, I'm fairly sure that any Ford engine before 2000 or so really needs e5 but don't quote me.

  8. Kit car market

    in Kit car related

    Posted

    Living in the Highlands will be your biggest issue but the market has never been very active. I've had mine up for a couple of weeks and not a single call 😞 

    Back in the day, kits had amazing performance - nowadays, many warm hatches can match them and they are getting old enough to cost the same amount as a kit. And of course, those pesky MX5s are down to £3k-5k. Tough competition...

    • Thanks 1

  9. Zero Headlight issues

    in Electrics

    Posted

    I sometimes feel this sub-forum is pointless for kits 😀  - most kits have a completely unique electrical system and it's almost impossible to help remotely. My wiring loom is half of the GBS system and half my own design - no-one is going to work it out 😀

    Having said that, a halogen and LED in the same unit? Don't LEDs use a lower voltage, so they should be on separate circuits? Also, LEDs are polarity sensitive- maybe 12v in the wrong polarity is keeping the LEDs on and preventing the halogen coming on? Dunno, I would get a multimeter on the wires and see what voltages you're getting...

    • Thanks 1

  12. Blowing from the front or behind 🤔

    in Engine

    Posted · Edited by nelmo

    11 hours ago, Dcsinclair22 said:

    Yeah honestly it's sideways and ive just realised that me stating SIDEWAYS  could mean mounted along the side of the car, what i actualy mean by sideways is turned 90°🤣🤣🤣🤣 what's even stranger is.... it works, and apparently a few others have fitted the rad sideways too, my rad is fitted pushing air through the rad put the front of the car, same as on my motorhome and on my 23plate vitara, just wondered how everyone else's was and if there was any benefits to fitting the other way

    Aaahhhh, that makes sense, phew 🙂 

    Mine is mounted outside the chassis (Zero) - if yours could be mounted outside the chassis, it could probably go the right way round. But I can understand why it works, shouldn't make any difference if it's rotated or not (the top input is still at a high point of the rad for airlock prevention).

    You definitely don't want the fan sucking air out as it would be competing with the normal airflow - you want to add to the existing airflow, not fight it. I've never heard of anyone doing that on purpose - when I first wired mine up, it was going the wrong way (50/50 guess on the fan wiring and I got the wrong one).

  13. Blowing from the front or behind 🤔

    in Engine

    Posted

    Sideways?! Over a hundred years of car design really suggests that 'at the front in the airflow' is best - surely you're going to have lots of heat problems? 

    If you have to, it doesn't matter where you put the fan because you can get it to push or pull just by changing the wires to the motor. Whichever way, you want cold air blown over the rad IMO, so air from the outside pushed into the engine bay, I would say.

  14. Back at it again

    in Electrics

    Posted

    I have a similar setup but I bought the main GBS loom, so I don't know where those 3 smaller wires go to exactly.

    One thing I will warn you of, in case you haven't done this already; disconnect the battery before going anywhere near that thick wire. My first alternator died and I almost electrocuted myself trying to take that big wire off without disconnecting the battery. As it was, I literally burnt a groove in the old alternator body as I dragged that wire off the post- acted like an arc welder - scared the crap out of me 😉

  15. Should I buy or Not

    in IVA

    Posted

    Sort of depends on how handy you are - done any car work before? Restoring an old kit is much harder than just starting from scratch; corroded parts, a completely unknown electrical system etc. £700 sounds pretty cheap to me - I paid more than that for just my gearbox...depends on the condition and how much work it will need.

    Got any pics?

  18. Washers and wipers

    in Fitting & bodywork

    Posted

    I'll repeat what I said on your FB post; having a screen without wipers is worse than no screen at all. So you might pass your MOT but if you dont/can't fit wipers (you don't need demisters, I've got through MOTs without them), then leave the screen off and fit an aero screen and wear a helmet.

    My wipers stopped working on a day out when it started raining and I couldn't see a thing, I literally had to lean out the car to see. You'd think the airflow would blow the water off a little but I think because our screens are flat, that just doesn't happen.

  21. Canadian Robin Hood

    in Electrics

    Posted

    Ah man, that is a BEAUTIFUL part of the world to have a kit car in - I did an RV tour around BC back in 1997 and we went through Revelstoke....awesome area!

    BUT...

    putting an electric motor in a kit car (or any car)?! Sacrilege...don't do it.... 🙂 

  22. Priming and bleeding due master with remote reservoirs

    in Mechanics

    Posted

    I've got the GBS remote oil reservoir (similar thing) and I did use the Eazebleed system but it was hardly necessary - I could have easily done it by simply pumping the brake pedal by hand. What was useful from the Eazebleed system is a short pipe with a one-way valve on it. Attach that to each bleed nipple in turn and just pump the brake pedal until fluid runs clear without bubbles. Repeat for the other 3 calipers.

    My system has been like that for 7 years and 22k miles without any hassle (although it sadly doesn't look as clean and shiny now :) ).

    20160427_214028.jpg

  23. Robinhood Cortina Based S7 Engine Swap Pinto-MX5

    in Engine

    Posted

    Yes, I have to agree - Mazda a much better engine and the gearbox is particularly good - far better than the Type 9 or MT75 that Ford's use.

    However, it's always going to be tricky on a tight budget and, personally, I would hate to have to start with someone else's half-finished project. I guess suggesting you buy a 2nd hand chassis (often come up on eBay etc) and start from scratch is a non-starter? You could re-use anything decent on the S7 (suspension, brakes etc?) but then you get a modern chassis and you can re-do everything the way you want it?

     

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