nelmo

Ah really? Bugger - I was hoping that the thread either in the main part of the knob or in the silver adaptor would match my lever. If not, that's even more rubbish than grub screws...

Well, having said they're all using grub screws, found a threaded one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401160279042 Not going to lose much if it turns out to be pants and the item seems to be for 2 of them? Why would anyone want 2 identical gear knobs?

Hmm, for under a tenner, I don't think the ones I've been looking at have too much of that Thanks for replies gents...

Piddling question - I fancy a different looking gear knob but all the interesting ones don't seem to be threaded but have grub screws to keep them in place. Does that fixing method work OK? I can imagine it might get a bit wobbly?

OK, panic over - wriggling the propshaft seems to have sorted it. Thanks all...

Well I had some sideways movement but I never tried turning the shafts. Now that it's in the car, I'll try turning the propshaft maybe?

Hmm, no can do - car is not on wheels yet (single garage, no space, leaving wheels as late as poss). The 'box was professionally reconditioned, so I'm not expecting it to be an actual problem with that, I'm assuming it's me not getting the lever or pedal right. Even when I first got the 'box and before I put it in the car, I was never able to put the lever into any gear - is that not normal?

I'm still building and not got as far as starting the engine but I wanted to try check the clutch and gearbox (MT75 mated to a Zetec). I've setup my clutch pedal so that the clutch arm is almost at the end of it's slot in the bellhousing with the pedal fully pressed and I've adjusted the gear lever (standard GBS quickshift) to be vertical when in neutral. However, I still can't move the lever into any gear - doesn't even feel close. I don't think I can do more on the cable end (there are 2 or 3mm left before the arm touches the end of the slot) - any suggestions about what I'm doing/done wrong?

To go off on a bit of a tangent, according to https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/make/caterham , there are currently 2,300 Caterham's registered in the UK BUT 1,500 of them are SORN'd That site works by V5 description - anyone know what is written on their V5 for a GBS or RH (I'm interested to know how many GBSs there are)? EDIT: Just noticed that 'Robin Hood' is listed as a make on that site and there are 2 (two) registered in the UK

Well, AS were good for me - no problems with delivery. They did send me 1 wrong pipe once but 1 phone call and they sent me the correct one without any charge.

I had the same dilemma. I've bought the gauges from GBS and they do sell the plugs and flying leads for the 2 main plugs on their main loom. They aren't on their website so you'll need to call and ask for them. They charged me £50 or so for both flying leads and plugs. I haven't seen the CBS instruments but being half the price suggests they may be dubious quality.

Thanks all - something was coming on but I couldn't tell if it was main or dipped. However, I think my switch is the problem...

When you switch on high beam on a standard H4 bulb, do both filaments come on or does the dipped beam filament turn off? By the way, don't try answering this by staring at your headlights and flicking main beam on, unless you want to do a Ray Charles impression for the next 10 minutes

Surely that answers your own question? Reminds me of the Blackadder lines, "doing the thing we have done 17 times before [walking across No Mans Land to attack] will totally surprise the enemy"

I'm no expert but I'm doing my dials and switches at the moment and it really helps to have a diagram of what you're doing - maybe create a schematic for what you've got at the moment and it will either become clearer about where you're going wrong or you can at least post the schematic here for wiser heads to stare at?

Ah, a man on the inside...can you give us any stats (number of thefts in last year, for example)?

I'd need some pretty major changes to my kit to take part :-)

Stencils for brake calipers - had to get them from the US off eBay...

Decided a Zetec was a bit dull for my kit so upgraded to something more exotic: https://goo.gl/photos/QBVtRa1y8wFuM1Ev6 Yup, it's the new 2L, 4-pot Ferrari engine... strangely similar looking to the Zetec, I admit...

I sold my first ever RC plane (weeks after finishing building it and never having flown it) to make room in my garage for the Zero Great looking model, that...good job.

And that's a huge plus, considering the difficulty some have had getting through an MOT. My car will be eligible for a new plate but I'm considering opting for a Q plate just for future MOTs.

Thanks for the ideas but basically, apart from 2 thefts years ago heard 3rd hand, it's not a major issue?

Do kit cars ever get stolen? I've never seen an online post on any forum mentioning it and a quick Internet search brings up nothing. I ask because I'm at the electrics stage of my build and was wondering if it's worth building an immobiliser of some sort in.

Does anyone know if a main beam flash function is an IVA requirement? I can't see any mention of it in the IVA manual. I'm not going to have stalks so I might add a button to do the flash - if I do that, does the button need to have a label/graphic on it to say what it does?

That is one great looking car - replica or not.