Mrbarry

I have two Halfords advance tool chests. Soft close draws. 30kg per draw rating. Very high quality. For the wheeled chest, middle chest and top chest they retail at £525. £185 cheaper than buying them all Individually. If you’re a trade customer £425 will get you the three. I’ve had US pro ones. Not close to Halford’s advance for quality or strength. The biggest advantage of the Halford’s ones is depth, most middle chests are a good 100mm smaller front to back than the wheeled trolly. This looses you sooooo much storage space. I keep mine inside cupboards so they are hidden from view and for security. Just stops them being blatant. I never move mine but you could cut the floor out of The cupboard if that was your thing.

Nothing complex about a car loom really. As for head lights. Cable size depends on current, side lights use very little current they tend to be 5w so under 0.5 amps. Head lights are generally 55w IIRC so under 5 amps. Main beam 55W so under 5 amps. It’s 1 amp per 12 watts. Could you let me know what each of your lamp wattages are? side light: dipped: Main beam: driving light: When exactly do you want them to operate? (Especially in relevance to each other and ignition) ill do you a drawing and quick explanation and post pictures for you. Reverse and stop lamps etc are a doddle.

I’ll do you a drawing later. what is the original wiring? You got a diagram? not at home atm.

Only just seen this thread. If you need any more help let me know. This is what I do for a living lol.

Pub

If you live by a TFM (Telford Farmers Market) they sell batteries. They are about a tenner cheaper than Tayna for an 063

Agreed these are not cars for the safety conscious amongst us. I just like to pass on info if I can help people out. If you’re buying new harnesses anyway it just seems worth buying better ones. In for a penny and all that. Only problem a fifth strap creates is you need a compatible seat, if you have no hole for said strap to feed thru you're buggered. I drive a motorbike, if safety was my main concern that would be a big no no lol. The zero is much safer option to that, even with no belts at all!

All that said, I have some old out of date fall attest harnesses. They have those plastic parts on to stop the flappy bits getting in the way. I will measure them. If they are the right size you’re welcome to the clips they are no good to me

Three point belts use your own weigh in your favour. In a front impact your torso hits the longer diagonal part of the belt pulling the shorter horizontal part in, this results in your butt being pulled rearwards Keeping your legs as far as possible from the steering and dash components. As we know 5 or 6 point harnesses simply lock you in hard. 4 point are terrible, they are normally worn too loose because the cheap ones most people use don’t stay where you adjust them, and as you say submarining is a big problem if you like walking after an impact. May seem dramatic but I’ve seen a lot of track cars rolled and smashed, the guys with 4 point harnesses all ended up with leg injuries or cuts and bruises, not to mention friction burns up their front where they slid under their belts. There’s a few things racing and showing cars has taught me over the years. No 4 point harnesses is one. Always chain your filler caps and anything that can be stolen at public shows in another had about £250 of parts stolen off my track car on Toyotas main stand at Goodwood festival of speed.

Better idea, get some five or three point replacements. Your knees will thank you if you ever use them in anger! Four point harnesses are horrific in a front impact. I am a hypocrite tho I haven’t replaced mine yet, my car came with four point harnesses.

All good. I have a feeling air will flow out of it not in at some speeds. I’m trying to design one for my car purely as engine bay cooling, NASCAR’s have these cents the other way around with a round hole underneath 65-68% sectional area of the scoop. The lee behind causing a vacuum and scavenging hot air from the engine bay. Looking at the cross section of the nose cone in comparison with a scoop you could have higher pressure in the engine bay than over the mouth of the scoop/vent. All depends how well the underside of the engine bay evacuates air.

All good I like to float a few ideas around if I can inspire people. Two heads and all that. There’s many ways to skin a cat with electrical installations. Preferred/standard methods are just the go to ideas usually but can always be improved upon.

Have you ever put short lengths of string on the leading Lower edge of the bonnet scoop and observed the air flow at different speeds? I’m intrigued as to the results because I have an idea the airflow will do all sorts of stuff.

You have numerous options for spotlights, I like to treat the room as a single luminaire, by that I mean do your loop live circuit as normal then in the room with the spots mount the rose or a JB in the void between ceiling and floor boards. That means it’s still a loop live system etc but you have nothing visible from below. The cable from the rose/JB you can take to the first spot and loop it around spot to spot. Alternatively use a JB with terminal rail and jumpers and feed a flex back from each spot to the rail, this is more industrial in reality but I’m a big fan. Weidmuller SAK2.5 terminals with jumper bars on top hat rail, end plates and earth terminals, you can even buy brown and blue terminals if you want to make it obvious what is a phase and neutral conductor. I use 20mm S compression glands as strain relief and put the JB in a nice accessible place to make it easy if ever you need to fault find; ie in the loft I mount it on a wall or in a convenient working area, for ground floor lighting in the corner of an upstairs room to reduce the carpet and boards you would have to lift to gain access if there is ever a fault. It’s a costly way of doing it that’s why it’s not the norm, a brittle brown JB with 4 cheap brass termination points will do the job but it’s not so elegant.

Loop live is a standard really. It’s fast, economical, easy to fault find, easy to expand, logical, safer than having singles everywhere or neutral connections in switch boxes, makes inspection and testing straightforward, is easy to follow when the next spark comes on site, reduces cables in switch drops..... Why do you not like loop live? It only applies to lighting circuits anyway, sockets will be ring or radial, shaver sockets should ideally have a dedicated supply direct from CCU, all other circuits should be dedicated too.

I was a member of an owners club for many years and there we had owners postage. Ok we had loads of members but it would still work here. Basic idea is you have something hard to post and are in no rush (for me once a projector) and post it’s start and finish locations. People will add locations together that they will be travelling in the coming days and weeks and thread a free postal service. Free lifts and the like where also an option. just an idea.

Thanks guys I’ll have a tinker. I’ve been working 14 hour days all over Christmas (have to work every other Christmas) so I haven’t had chance yet. Brumster you’re always welcome to pop over, I’ll get the laptop out the weekend and play a little. I am an Emerarld virgin, on MoTeC I was happy to add and assign inputs and outputs etc, but fueling I only touched once, added 3% globally and removed 1 degree global ignition advance when I swapped engines and didn’t have time for a remap before a race event, was a risk but paid off nicely.

Mid week does sound a better idea. So does sunshine, see if you can organise a bit of that

It’s a Mazda 1800cc MX5 engine. Cranking amps are fine or starting voltage drops, V/IR ohms law. I’ve covered the electrical side that’s my trade. Just looking for experience with mapping and starting with aftermarket ECUs. I have Jenvy ITBs too btw, and fueling is metered via MAP not MAF. Engine compression is good.

I have my zero running quite nicely these days. All re-trimmed inside, everything working well, temperatures are all healthy etc. It drives a treat and the fuelling is good too, but starting can be a bind. I have a new battery fitted and cranking voltage stays around 11v so that’s all ok, I have two earths to the block, one from the battery direct and one via the chassis, and the positive conductors are clean 35mm CSA, electrically it’s as good as it gets. I have questioned the starter motor, it seems to be a bit slow turning over some times, but my biggest suspicion is mapping. I have an emerald K6 and it was mapped by Aldon Auto, I have had Motec ECUs in the past and starting is never as good as a factory ECU. I would like to know what other people experience with after market ECUs regards to starting. It’s poor hot and cold and can be embarrassing in public, I know it always starts but it can take a few turns.

A dehumidifier might help? You can buy none electric ones cheap enough. It’s a bit like trying to dehumidify the world tho unless you seal the cover but it should help. Or totally the other end of the scale to sealing the thing up, I had damp issues in my garage this winter, I had sealed up the gaps around the windows in the summer so I removed the pvc strips to allow good airflow and now the damp is gone, so maybe ventilation would be a good idea too. I’m going to double skin the garage and add heating next summer rather than this tho, sooooo cold working in there. These look ok and a pair of replacement filters/absorbers is £4 and last 6 months allegedly https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/unibond-450g-aero-360-moisture-absorber/p/0286745?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI29XJgZa95gIVDbDtCh1nEg-AEAQYDSABEgKDZPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Must say it’s no fun in the bad weather. Was bad enough driving to bridge north and back last week in damp cold roads. The car and my right arm where thick of mud when I go home. Was a good drive out tho.

How did you get on then? I’m working all weekend or I’d have made an appearance. The mrs is at the hairdressers all day today.

Mine is loud but my MOT tester has bad ears

You can tune into an exhaust note (any frequency) and if you know the distance calculate the exact dB at source. Distance would be easy in this day and age. Sound decays at an exact rate in free air over distance. I would assume 74db would be at the sensor tho because it’s very low