Mrbarry

I have just moved house, after 43 years on gas we are now all electric (and oil heating) love oil heating!!!!!! Electric fan oven is also excellent. Ceramic hob is horrific. Never again!!! So it’s either gas and I’ll run it on a calor Gas 47 (wife is uk sales manager for calor so would be cheap gas) (and no I can’t get cheap bottles for other people ) or an induction hob, induction heat is very controllable, very very efficient because it doesn’t let heat pass around the pan, by definition it is only capable of heating the metal and water in its field. It can heat alloy pans depending on frequency, we use induction melting pots at work to melt tonnes of aluminium alloy for remelt. One other note, in 2025 the ‘big 6’ are going to stop supplying gas to domestic premises. There is debate over them still supplying existing customers but NO new connections will be made. It’s down to the way you can’t scrub/clean the emissions in a domestic setting but you can burn it en mass and make clean electric whilst the volume makes scrubbing viable at source. Electrical distribution is extremely clean once it’s produced. And as the big 6 supply all the smaller subsidiary sellers they will have to follow suit. Expect huge gas price hikes.

That’s a solid and helpful post indeed. I had the same idea for the filler, sit it in a tray with a drain to road, was going to use a locking cap tho. Then fit alloy covers over the ‘boot’ that fit flush under the leatherette cover, that set up will look ‘factory standard’ but be secure. A bonnet catch to lock and use the old filler cap as the pull for opening it. I am am under the impression the gear box and engine mounts are weak, will look closer. I am going to pick up off a road wheel for now I don’t have a lot of love for GPS speedos. Yes they work well but do have some foibles, me being a fussy bugger with a bit of OCD.......

I have no idea what mounts are used I didn’t do the build. I was under the illusion the diff was solid mounted? I beieve the issue to be the engine and gear box mounts allowing float, this would create articulation of the prop so that it can hit the sensor. As the sensor bracket is mounted to the body the two meet in a sticky end. More investigation needed when I have time I have machined polly engine mounts for other cars, I am new to the zero (well it sat for 18 months idle after I purchased it), I have had it mapped at Aldon automotive and it drives well. Just need a speedo :? So so far I have made a set up that reduces the throw of the accelerator, mainly to hold it 3 inches lower at rest so I can heal and toe during down shifts, I have done a bit of cosmetic work and changed the wheels. I have Carbotech brakes on order, I have fitted a new clutch master cylinder, and I’ve burned lots of fuel. The list now is Speedo, colour change, new seats, vents to get air out of the engine bay, cut a hole for the TBs to get cold air, find out if the radiator fan is switched from a sensor or the ecu and lower it’s threshold, burn more fuel. Oh, and mount the fuel filter cap inside the boot pointing skywards, sick of fuel pouring on my feet as I get to fuel up!!! (I have more of a plan then it sounds) if if I can’t do anything else I’ll mount the speedo pick up on an upright and pick up on a hub. Bloody cars haha.

I hate 4 point harnesses. Have seen a few people with smashed knees because of them. 3, 5 or 6 point harnesses all the way for me. Inertia belts are fantastic in operation, both for easy of putting on and in how they use your own inertia to pull your knees away from the steering wheel and dash if used in anger, they add nothing to your driving ability on track tho. 5/6 point are effectively the same animal and boy do they hold you tight. My zero currently has 4 point because that’s what was fitted when I got it, they will be going this summer however, I never feel safe with them. Other problem is I need comparable seats for 5 point harnesses, mine have no hole for the fifth strap. And yes I know you can get anti submarine seats, I’ve yet to see a pair in a zero however and even those have limitations.

Smaller wheels would react nice and quickly to smooth the ride out, dampers can’t react as fast as rubber, that’s why they run small rims in F1. They heat up fast due to wall flex for short circuit work too.

Just to close this thread, I did order from mx5heaven and it works a charm, be aware however if you go the same route the fluid reservoir is longer than standard so you need to swap them over, the rear ended fastens to the master cylinder body differently so you have to faff a little, but nothing major.

So I am having issues with my Speedo sensor. Main issue, I have smashed 6 in as many months. It’s getting silly now. I set the gap from the prop to the max and all is well, but one hard gear change later it goes with a rattle, few of these and it grabs and rips it to pieces. Obviously a little float in the prop at the diff end then. Sooooo. I have a Mazda based kit and I’m told there is a stock sensor option in the rear of the box?? I am told I can run a smiths Speedo from it. Has anyone got experience of this?? Tia

codes don’t work on this forum it seems. Fine on any other forum I use. Links are live anyway.

I asked a while ago about this, pounding them out with a hammer seems a bad idea, shock loading the bearings metal on metal in a direction they aren’t designed for seems questionable at best. So I decided to make a removal tool. It works like a charm and presses them out like they are made from butter. Then again it would the hydraulic pusher is a 12 tonne ram. If anyone needs ideas here are pictures. Took 20 minutes to make from 2 flanges and a male coupler. https://www.dropbox.com/s/0dcg1ep8o9bakqq/Photo 13-06-2019%2C 15 57 46.jpg?raw=1[/IMG] https://www.dropbox.com/s/5cfc7lna7cx2za4/Photo 13-06-2019%2C 15 57 57.jpg?raw=1[/IMG] https://www.dropbox.com/s/qjkk39t3dothpbk/Photo 13-06-2019%2C 16 02 56.jpg?raw=1[/IMG]

Went to get the zero out today and the clutch peddle was on the floor. Well it had around 20mm of travel. There was no fluid in the reservoir so I topped up. It simply poured out of the front seal. I was going to rebuild it but I can get a full new master and slave cylinder from MX heaven for £40. No brainer. I assume it is a standard MX5 cylinder they use on a Mazda zero kit build?? If not no point ordering that lol

Does membership still roll until December 31st or rolling 12 month?

Nothing I’ll be coming. Already looking forward to it

Well I’m off work. And I haven’t been for years, local to me too. Had many great days there....

I’m after a tool chest at a fair price that is fair quality. Not looking to spend snap on money, I don’t feel they are worth the price anyway. I’d say upto £500 for a roll along with a middle and top chest. Halford’s have a set reduced from £1050 to £479 this week. Any other suggestions or ideas.

Recently had my zero mapped and it’s running great now. My mate is booked in for his IVA but wants a decent base map if any one has one, spec is as follows. Standard GBS crate engine, zetec black top standard injectors standard plenum standard exhaust with cat no egr valve my engine is a MX5 so he can’t use mine lol. If anyone has a map you could send me we would both be very greatfull

Lots of diesel cars use low pressure lift pumps and a sort of swirl pot as standard. On petrol cars its not worth the cost for a road car. A more common solution for more sporty cars is baffled tanks, reliable as the day is long but not as good as a swirl pot. Foam filled tanks are also effective for anti surge of fuel, not only does it reduce the risk of air in the fuel it keeps the weight of the fuel fairly stable during direction changes.

Well if I was you Id read the paperwork. Not all of them are a rip off. Internet opinions (mine included) are not informed, guess work and normally bitter about things like warantees. I have had my XFR from new and it came with a 3 year warantee, after almost 3 years a headlight steamed up and needed replacing, they did it no questions asked, a new one is £997.51p supply only. After the three years they offered me an extended main dealer warantee for £1000 a year and I declined, its just over 7 years old now so that would have cost me £4000 had I taken it each year. In the last 4 years Ive replaced the rear camera loom at £40, the drivers window regulator at £140, and the rear dampers at £450. All would have been covered. But the cost is still far less than the warantee. Granted I fitted them all my self so there would have cost more fitted. Currently the electronic handbrake is playing up, about once every two or three weeks it comes on and straight off again, a red triangle and warning comes on the dash saying ebrake fault. A restart of the engine fixes it so no drama yet. When it totally fails however I believe its not a cheap fix most times. Hmmmmm.

F40. Drool!!!!!

Red or black? If something goes wrong that costs more than £450 it is, if not then no. Roulette with car parts. You will find they dont provide the warrantee but simply pay a third party company who provide warrantees and give you the paperwork. Ask who its with, you may get it cheaper direct if they are profiteering. You may find it costs you more direct because they may get group discount. If it is a genuine ford warantee for that price its very cheap.

Added bonus of that is the oil pressure at the switch tends to be the lowest anywhere in the engine, furthest from the pump etc. You need to restrict the flow to the turbo or you get much more lag and spoil up time than you should, it results in premature oil seal failure too. So many people fail to restrict the flow to turbos, they assume more oil the better On a TD04 Id use an oil feed restricter with a 1.2 - 1.5 mm hole, what oil feed lines are you using?

I use an app on my iPhone 8 that does GPS speedo reading and is extremely accurate. It can read in mph, kph, average speed if you want. It tracks your route, max speed, all sorts. Theres loads of apps that do it. Its slow to update on acceleration, perhaps 1/2 second, so no good to time 0-60 or anything but still good. I put it on my dash in my jag set to head up display where it auto adjusts to brightness and works like a charm. So whilst not a permanent speedo as such it does a job if you ever need a work around, or just a HUD for fun.

Im moving house shortly and have found a place with a big garage. Thats the important part over now onto the trivia. The house is in a village and has views on two sides of farmland as far as the eye can see. Only issue is will it be built upon in the future? You never know do you. Im paying for the views but Im not buying them. The house has a river for the boarder of the garden on two sides, the same sides as the views, so I know no one can build super close to that, but does anyone have any good sites or links to planning applications, land owners registers etc? Yes my solicitor will do these searches but whilst Im waiting I was interested in looking my self.

Never seen a set that suit the car. Its hard to get anything that doesnt look like an after thought. The cars are a 1970 design so modern lights look at best questionable IMHO. Id love to be proven wrong tho because the correct lights are agricultural at best. They are at least in keeping with the cars however.

No right answer here. Can only say dont spend a pound on a 1p job. Theres a sweet spot in life where the returns for input start to be negligible. Diminishing returns and all that. A Garret turbo will out perform a Chinese one by a mile, but GT and GTX range turbos are a mile apart on price but not performance. Do you just want to add a bit of pine and enjoy 230bhp or do you want a precision engineered thoroughbred race car? Ive seen good numbers from Chinese turbos on evos but they dont tend to last long. A Mitsubishi turbo like an TD06 can be a far more reliable turbo there but you need to match its trim to YOUR engine. Cams, breathing, desired boost level and power band. Compressor maps are a pita to read at the best of times. Get it wrong youll have lots of lag or compressor surge, but on the whole a TD04 suits most 1800 or 2.0 lumps fairly well. R&D = ££££

Well I decided to weigh those 17s with the tyres and the 15s with tyres. By fitting pro race 1.2s in 15 inch Ive saved 33kg in total, 7kg per wheel and Ive not removed the spacers at 1.25kg each. Those are accurate numbers too. Pro race 1.2 with 195/59/15 RainSport 3 is 12.8kg. Looking at that youre talking 8kg per corner unsprung weight. And because Ive removed 30mm spacers and altered the offset by 25mm they are 5mm closer to the center of the car now, shorter moment of inertia for the dampers to control. Add those two together it should be far better in the corners. Still have no idea what brand the black wheels are lol.