phaeton

Pete, Can you get the car to the garage, I have a mate who lives not far along the coast from you, he knows quite a few mechanics I can ask him to ask them but I presume you will have to go to them. Alan..

Thanks all I'll check tomorrow evening I'm surprised it runs at 40 degrees TBH

It's not running right I thought it was a carb but set that back to base level screw all the way in then back out 2 turns, but even with that it's still banging & popping, refusing to rev up. So I thought I'd check the timing, read it ought to be around 8 degrees, when I checked it assuming I did i right it's had 40 degrees of advance, I'm managed to pull it back to 32 degrees but now the wiring is hitting the engine. Looks like I'll have to swap the leads back a hole & try it again tomorrow, but can you just sensecheck my logic. Engine turns clockwise, there are markings on the crank pulley, they appear to be the first mark 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2 & the last TDC with 12 being the first as the engine spins, there is also a mark on the casing, I put some ink on the last mark which I believe is TDC & started the engine, my timing light is one with a dial on the back so you turn the knob until the marks line up with TDC then read the gauge. The quality of the image isn't great but can somebody confirm that the engine is now at TDC It has just had a new camshaft fitted, could it be it's not lined up correctly & the belt is a tooth or more out?

They are great but I hope you have deep pockets, they drink dinosaur juice like it is going out of business

Think it's been changed to an electronic one, although I suppose the shaft could still be worn

Got the toffee hammer out this morning & gave the carb a few gentle taps around the float chamber, didn't really want to strip it down if I can get away with it, pulled the plugs out & found some of the sootiest plugs I have ever seen. Gave them a clean up & reset the carb back to 2 turns from the stop, after that it fired straight up, still a bit rich I think but the ignition timing is a bit off, I think I need a new rotor arm & cap. I put my timing light on at one point & it was missing sparks on No1 cylinder so hopefully get them tomorrow. What is the standard timing on a 2.0L Pinto?

Been playing with this for a while now, thought I had sorted it but it's still not 100%, there is a tin box with 3 relays in, 1 marked NC with the others marked NO, all the wires that come off them are green (lol) & seem to go to the back of the foglight switch. But what is happening now after rewiring the headlights, switch headlights on with ignition on, furthest away is full beam, middle is dip & pulling towards is now flash. However if you leave them in full beam then switch them off on the right hand switch they stay on, pulling them onto dip they go out, back to full they stay off, so it's back feeding from somewhere. I did find a loose wire & there is a buzzer which isn't connected, so I presume it's all about Section 28 of the IVA manual. Has anyone seen anything like it before? Note 4: Either of the following scenarios will also be considered acceptable: The rear fog lamp(s) may continue to operate until the position lamps are switched off, and the rear fog lamp(s) must then remain off until deliberately switched on again or, An audible warning, additional to the mandatory telltale light, must be activated if the ignition is switched off or the ignition key is withdrawn and the driver's door is opened, whether the lamps in (RS4) are on or off, whilst the rear fog lamp switch is in the "on" position. It also has an electric fuel pump which is really annoying when you're trying to find an electrical issue as it's running all the time, so I went under the back of the car to see if I could disconnect it whilst I was fiddling, only to find a switch fitted I've since moved it from the back of the car to a place reachable from the driver's seat

Does anything work, indicators, hazards, if you can get any to work leaving them on & go around just touching the relays.

Yes that is how I'm expecting it, something is not wired quite right, also when I then switch the lights off (right hand switch) but with the ignition still on the lights stay on until you switch off the ignition, which again either wrong wiring or a sticking relay, now to find the little blighter

Or I suppose I could just wheel it along kicking it every 3rd rotation of the pedals

Anybody got any they want to sell, I know you can buy new from kit spares but £636 seems an awful lot of money to me.

Once again thanks, I suppose, yes that is logical, I could make it with inserts, so it could be either spare wheel carrier or towbar & swap them over as required & run the risk of no spare wheel when I have the bike on.

It does thank you, I was sort of hoping you'd left the loop on & added the towbar at that point, as I quite like the spare wheel on the back

Got an issue with the headlights & just want to check out the logic first before tackling it, currently if you are sat in the driver's seat, with the headlight switch on the right on, then on the left stalk the furthest away position is dip beam, in the middle position it is full beam & when you pull it towards you it's a non latching flash of the full beam if the lights aren't switched on. This doesn't seem logical to me, I was expecting furthest away position being full beam, in the middle being dip beam & pulling towards you full beam flash. But it's 25 years+ since I had a Ford

Obvious answer on a kitcar is wherever the builder decided to put it

I work in Telecoms & was in a meeting probably 8 or so years ago & we were looking for new ideas. I suggested a FB app where users could call each other for free, I was talked down by those in the know as being a daft idea as it would not last.

This is what I am hoping, if ever the rain stops I'll try to have a look

Do you have any images or a write up of what you did, I have a towbar cycle carrier so a towbar would be the ideal answer

I have heard of this, but try to stay well clear.

Is there any strength in the spare wheel carrier? Would it be feasible to extend it further to make it so you could mount a bicycle on it, my MTB weighs 13.5Kg & the E-bike 23Kg only need one at once can't ride them both at the same time.

Richard just tried to send you a PM but it says you cannot receive them? Are you still doing the brackets & tie-bars? Alan..

Which model, normally there are a couple of bolts which you get at from behind, then you lift the airbag away to undo the electrical connection, then a big nut in the middle of the wheel which needs to be loosened, then leaving the nut on you rag the wheel towards you, sometimes a little left & right movement helps. Leave the nut on the shaft just in case if comes off a bit quick & you get a faceful of wheel, once it's loose undo the nut fully & remove the wheel. This is not particularly specific to MX5 but covers most Japanese cars.

My thoughts on this type of thing is you are very unlikely to be pulled on the numberplate alone, but it may be used as an excuse to talk to you about something else. I have a friend who has a motorbike with one of the silly small plates on the back, had it on for 4 years no issues, but he normally rides alone, but he was out with a group of 20 last weekend & he got pulled along with others, the plate was mentioned & he got a producer, to get it changed & checked by a garage within 7 days.

Can you explain a bit more about this, did you do it yourself or pay to have it done & what's involved? Can I also ask what the black box is?

It's a manual choke, I'll check tomorrow but I do think it's coming off as if you pull full choke it won't start. Edit:- Just to add on the invoice it says Weber 32/36 DGV 5A Carb Model 22680000500-6 if that helps