phaeton

Are you doing this alone or is somebody with you, only asking as a quick spray of Ezistart (other brands are available) when being cranked, if it fires, it's likely to be a fueling issue, if it doesn't it's likely to be an ignition issue, that is assuming it's not a compression issue.

Just a couple of other things to consider, as an 02 plate it will have a Cat, your kit must have a Cat, your emissions will have to be the same as your donor. You cannot transfer off a Q plate to put anything else on, it bothers some people but not others

Sorry but you're too far away, happy to help out in South Yorks, North Notts, North Lincs area unless you can get it up here

Get it somewhere close & take it to a garage to get it setup correctly, one that understands what is needed, not your usual backstreet garage or kwikkyfit

Anyone Recognise what this kit is other than one that appears to have had it's identity removed, this is a total guess & not an accusation but from the looks of it it's been used, so either on the donor plates, or the plates are now on another vehicle.

Think you need to compare it with the actual temperature then

Have you briefly touch the wire on the sensor to earth to see if the gauge goes full sweep, you could also get one of those infrared temperature gauges & compare the temperature https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226475807425 this type of thing off Fleecebay

I've had to where the VOSA/MOT system & the V5C do not match, the V5C showed it registered correctly with the kit name & model, whereas the VOSA/MOT system just gave it as the make of the engine supplier, maybe the MOT tester can overwrite the name if they don't know what it is, if I remember I'll ask the lad that does mine.

What does it say on the V5C as to the type of vehicle it is, does it say it's a 2B or a Sierra?

Consider starting the car & then with it running using something like brake cleaner, or WD40 spray around your inlet manifold & throttle body to see if the engine note changes which would indicate you have an air leak & the ECU is trying to compensate. I am presuming injection engine, But WARNING although th intake side should not be hot enough to ignite the spray there is a very remote chance, so having a fire extinguisher handy might be good idea, although I have never ever needed one, or at least I haven't until I do.

Sounds like it's massively over fuelling if your plugs are black & when you touch the throttle it dumps more fuel in than it can handle. Does it have a OBD socket?

Interesting, they are only just down the road from me, I attend their evening get togethers sometimes, I'll ask when they start doing them again, with MEV it was a number of years ago, so maybe attitudes have changed at the powers that be.

I wanted to go back & check this before replying but can't, Stuart Mills of MEV (old owner) tried to produce an electric kit, he in fact built a prototype, but as far as I know the DVLA/DSA/VOSA refused to test it as it would have to be type approved which cost well into 6 figures. Moving the kitcar business into EV will be very difficult, although I personally don't think EV is the answer, although that depends on the question you ask I suppose.

Just gone back again to look & reread & I get this page, (not giving them an email address)

I stand corrected then, not had a boat anchor since the very early 80's but you'll not get away with that much slack on more modern stuff

That's for an auxiliary belt not a timing belt

Strangely enough I've just gone back & the paywall is no longer there, so not sure myself, I'm 99.99% certain I didn't dream it, but as I lose spanners mid job as if they are going out of fashion anything is possible.

Unfortunately behind a paywall so can't read it

Just done a quick Google & it's come up with https://www.shandonelectricalltd.co.uk/ but Scotland is a big place

Do you mean twin servo, or do you mean twin/dual master cylinder? As to invalidating the vehicles IVA I very much doubt there is a kit car on the road which has not been modified in anyway as to potentially invalidate the IVA if it were taken back & tested again.

Where are you based?

Do you not have a local company that can rebuild it for you?

Did you buy the battery local or have a good factors near you, take the battery off the car, charge it up & take it to them to test, they should have a decent tester that will put a load on it to prove it. If you didn't buy it from them explain what you are doing, most will do it FOC for you That way at least you know that you know the battery is good, rule of fault finding only change one thing at once & prove each bit as you go along, only work with certainties not guesses.

That to me sounds like the SM is struggling, I would have expected it to have spun quicker than that, although I have nothing to compare it with

Direct between negative & engine not chassis, if you can't get to SM then can you bypass the isolator, the only other thought is a lazy starter motor, might be worth taking it out & cleaning the com up, or get it refurbished