Longboarder

SVA/IVA sets the emissions standards for a kitcar as those applicable to the effective date of manufacture of the engine fitted at time of testing. You have only told us a registration date but can you confirm the sierras reg date of 1988 and that the 2B was presented as a single donor vehicle and is not a Q plate? Registration date of the donor car is only partially relevant as it establishes a 'manufactured before' date for the engine. Ford used to be obliging enough to respond with the actual manufacture date of an engine if asked (engines effective date). It is the date of engine manufacture So assuming 1988 single donor car was presented for SVA/IVA it should have been assessed for emissions as 'a four wheeled vehicle effective date between 1 Aug 86 and 31 July 92'. These values are CO<=3.5%, HC<=1200ppm. These are the figures that should have been put in your V5C (often were not) and recorded in some dusty file or computer log and forever associated with your car at MoT time (regardless of you fitting a different engine at some later date) Having said that they did get it wrong sometimes, messed it up, lost it or the figures were eaten by a dog. Should be achievable with well tuned carbs, clean air filter etc. Check with the garage what standards DVLA have for your car. Neither donors nor 2Bs dates of registration are significant for emissions. It's all down to what SVA/IVA decided it should be.

Trying to understand how selecting reverse could affect fuel supply! The only thing I can think of is the reverse light switch and lamps causing a change in the electrical state of the car. Fuel pumps need a hefty electric supply and earth. Does the pump electric supply share with the reverse light stuff. I would check the pump relay and wiring including the earth to make sure all connections are good. Presumably the ECU has an output to switch the pump relay. Check that too.

Whistle under load, reduces if load off but car still moving, revs much the same, speed the same suggests intake or exhaust leak to me. I would go through the intake system first checking all joints and gaskets including servo pipe if you have one.

Can't say for sure if it will fit yours. I have one on mine but don't use the sierra pedal box, thus needed the adjustable bit. You don't need the adjustable bit if using the sierra pedal box. Perhaps you would be better off with a sierra cable but try releasing the toothed pawl(blue in my pic). That allows you to rotate forward the quadrant, releasing slack into the cable which allows you to insert some spacer shims to take up the slack. Then try the clutch. You need to confirm that excessive cable length is the problem.

Well that is very unusual. You have a bellhousing with facility for fitting the starter motor on left or right side. The starter cover is the lump of ally hiding the release lever. Are you are sure the cable is now in its proper place at both ends. If the auto-adjuster is working and the cable is the right length then the quadrant will not sit like the one in my picture (which is fully tight). It would sit with the quadrant partially rotated anti-clockwise in the view shown in my pic. If it sits like my pic then the cable is too long. You cant shorten the cable so you have to lengthen the cable outer. This is done with shims. They can be placed at either end of the cable outer. Or you can buy a new adjustable cable like the escort one shown below.

There should be no problem, doubt or difficulty with the release bearing lever and getting the cable end into it. It realy should look just like the pic agent Z posted. As visible and accessible as a dogs balls. Yes the lever does stick out an inch. If yours doesn't then there is a problem with the lever. Secondly if your pedal box is assembled correctly the spring you just fitted will take up the clutch cable slack automaticaly. If it's not quite right then you can try lifting the pedal and that should work. If it hopelessly wrong then it won't. Second pic is the clutch with some bits stripped away. You can see the spring. You can see the toothed pawl (blue) that is lightly sprung and gets lifted out of engagement with the ratchet quadrant (red)by the post (yellow).

3.62 LSD. ST170 will pull it easily (mine does). 3.9 will leave you overgeared and a 3.14 will take the sparkle away too much. Are you sure you have diagnosed the problem and got the right answer?

When you say it doesn't fit, do you mean you can't fit it with the engine in place. They are hard to fit on the monocoque cars. At least I found mine hard to fit and remove with the engine in the car. Once I took the head off to fit the manifold. Another time I undid the two front engine mounts and swung the engine aside on a crane which enabled me to fiddle the manifold into place.

If you are getting 12v on the B lead and the D lead with ignition on then it is probably easier to get a replacement alternator from the scrappy and swap them out.

Do you have any mechanism which tensions the clutch-release bearing against the diaphragm springs? Properly set sierra clutch pedal and sprung quadrant would be such a device.

It could be the regulator. rarely when that fails you can get normal battery light behaviour apart from glowing as you increase revs. But to help you need to identify the alternator, what connections it has and test each rather than guessing what it might be. Look at the picture below of the connectors and choose your alternator.

Still grinning enough to make your jaw ache?

What alternator please? Most have two or three wires. A big one from B post to the positive of the battery. Check its continuity and resistance. Ford went through a phase when they put a length of fuse wire in this lead. You can't see it, only test it. Second wire runs from battery pos to ignition light, through and out to 61/D/L/WL/I terminal on the alternator and may do duties just for the ign light or may also excite the field coils. Check it by removing it from the alternator, switch ignition on but don't start the engine. Your multimeter should show some volts at its end. Third wire if you have one is an ignition live and should show 12 volts at its alternator end with the ignition on. Don't start the engine with any wires removed from the alternator. Ignition light should go out at less than 1000rpm.

pic will help with the wiring connections. As for the lubrication, the motor and both wiper spindles must be removed from the car in one assembly. The motor is usually held by a jubilee type clamp bolted round its barrel. The spindles pop up through the scuttle and have two nuts each, one to secure the wiper arm and one to secure the spindle. Remove these and the motor, bowden cable and spindle boxes should be loose under the scuttle.

This is the top one, triangle to shaft. https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/de/steering-universal-joint-ford-sierra-triangle-end But you want the bottom end to the rack. Does it use a sierra rack. If it does then the splined section is 'unique'. Ford put a master spline on it, sort of double spline without the groove so it only fits one way. Also has to push on far enough for the bolt to engage the groove in the rack male bit. CBS page I posted has a selection of bits to allow you to make up something.

All engines can benefit from minor changes in cam timing, ignition timing, advance curve, cam to follower clearances, etc. There's another 2 or 3% power to be had! However you are not at that stage yet. You want nice reliable running and that comes from a safe standard set of adjustments that will suit all pintos of your type. 10 deg BTDC is a good figure. Easier starting. Very unlikely to get pre-ignition at high load. If you were tuning to max power the more ignition advance the engine can run without pre-ignition the more power it will make but for a road car and random quality pump petrol a safety margin is wise.

To add to the mix I'm surprised at the anti two pumps and a swirlpot movement. There's space in the boot for all the bits. No idea why anyone would put them under the bonnet either. I use a cheap low pressure lift pump drawing through a cheap filter to fill the pot and a restricted return from the pot back into the tank. The HP pump draws from the base of the pot and then pumps through an injection filter and via 8mm copper to the rail and back in 6mm copper to the pot. It all fits in a six inch deep space behind the boot where it keeps cool. Looks like this and admittedly is fiddly to work on due to the space. Cost £70. I have had problems with blocked filters due to dirty petrol and have had to replace both pumps at the roadside. (But I carry spares)

Well done. Ignition timing to 10 degrees before TDC with the strobe. It will almost certainly have moved when you did the cam belt. Carb's probably OK. And you're in business.

The hole for the ball joint of the top wishbone is offset in the top hat and its axis is not parallel to the tube of it. I have found mine perform best if one side is at 30clock and the other at 9oclock. See pics.

Manufacturing tolerances and build can have an effect on castor. Positioning of the wishbone brackets on the chassis and the build of the wishbones particularly. Position of the top hat can also make a big change to appearance of castor. First thing I would do is make sure the top hats position is matched left and right and then get castor, camber and toe properly measured to see if your impressions are born out by the figures. Then report back.

Are you saying I should fit a couple of hundred quids worth more of electronic gubbins to add to the grands worth that's already in there to get better cruising MPG?

Twin filiament bulbs? Check you have wired the left one correctly. As per the diagram below. If you don't get the earth on the correct terminal then either dip or main will have the two filiaments in series and thus not very bright and poor pattern.

I suspect it's locost or Haynes and as such will be narrower than a 2B nose. Wrong! Just been up in the loft to measure a nosecone I bought from GBS 2 years ago which I have not fitted yet. Almost identical dimensions to within 0.5"

I use an omex ECU. Possibly a bit different. Not interested in emissions or target AFR. Just horses. I'm happy to stick with 'at 5500rpm it makes max power at x injection volume and y ignition advance and z cam advance.' And it's one less thing to go wrong.

Not from a 2B. Robin Hood never put a return on the edges like that one.