richyb66
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Posts posted by richyb66
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I know what you're on about and you can get them online from rs components. A 12 way plug looks like this:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchB...t&R=4944594 and the mating socket looks like this:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchB...t&R=4944601
They're not the smallest things so if space is at a premium they might not be suitable but otherwise at under a fiver each they don't look too bad and with 5amp rated contacts they should be up to the job.
Other option is a pair of mating connectors cut from and old wiring harness and soldered and heat shrunk in place.
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i've seen a way of getting round this problem by splitting the front mudgaurd in half length ways and adding a strip of ali or stainless to the middle. a bit like the rear arches but double sided. saves any worry or buying new wider arches. i think a few people have done this now?...
robin
Sounds like a lot of extra work - I've gone with the mudguards flush with the outer face of the tyre in plan view as this is easy to set up by clamping a big board to the outside of the wheel. The actual tread of the tyre is pretty well covered so I don't think spray will be too much of a problem. If the SVA is a problem then I'll fit a pair of the wide cycle wings for £90 from GBS assuming that they're wider than 200mm.
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Apologies for highjacking the thread but I'm fitting my cycle wings at the moment too. I've got the brackets made up using the long bit of tube supplied with the kit - cut down to suit but question is the positioning of the wing relative to the tyre.
The wing is only 200mm wide, whereas the tyres are about 210mm (205/50 15). Obviously the wing won't entirely cover the tyre so I've aimed to get the outside of the wing level with the outside of the tyre in plan view (if that makes sense). The question is, is the acceptable for SVA given that I've got a portion of the inside of the tyre visible in plan view. Obviously because of the shape of the tyre, the exposed portion is mostly sidewall but as it's on the inside it's less likely to be contactable.
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I think Joel has used two of those looms on his cars & rates them....
Looks like I'll be using a Premier loom then - I'll order one up in the New Year and just carry on with other jobs over Christmas.
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I have thought about making a loom but decided against it on the basis that I frankly don't have the time. I only manage an average of about 5 hours a week working on the car and as the cost isn't particularly an issue, the time is probably better spend starting off with 75% of a complete harness rather than starting from scratch.
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I'm thinking of getting stuck into some wiring over Christmas to make a light beak from mince pies, DIY and Bond film repeats.
The plan was/is to get a loom from Premier Wiring because all the reports I've read seem positive but unfortunately they're now off on holiday and I can't get a loom until sometime in the New Year.
The question is do I get a loom from GBS instead? I've not read any reports on them and don't know who makes them so I don't want to buy one just to get it before Christmas and end up with a disaster.
Anyone got any opinions, positive or otherwise. It's not like I have to start the wiring now, I just thought that it would be a good job to do over Christmas and would make a change from all the fabricating I seem to have been doing lately.
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Hi Rich,
I still have the entire gearbox from a 1990 Astra GTE, plus the digi dash & (I think) the entire wiring set up.
If it ever warms up???? I'll take a trip to the shed & see what's there.....hope its not urgent!!!
I'm getting on a bit & starting to feel the cold...
Bob
Bob,
if you've got the dash too then it's probably worth more to you if you stick it on Ebay! Would be worth £50 depending on who's after one. Either way I'm not in a desperate rush as I'm only just starting on the wiring.
Richard.
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As the title says, I'm after a speedo transducer from an Astra as I'm going to use an Astra digital dash. Bit of a long shot but maybe someone has an Astra box kicking around from a red top conversion.
They look like this jobbie on Ebay which I may yet big on but though I'd have an aske here first.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/astra-gte-speedo-tra...A1%7C240%3A1318
Not sure if there's different types but as most modern speedos are geared at 100 turns per mile I should be able to get most to work.
Thanks
Richard.
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iam thinking of getting a jag X class and was wondering if any one on here has any experience of them and suggestions which is the best model/engine/spec to get i quite like the look of the 2.0 diesel se model any info greatly received
Yes, avoid the early 2.0 V6 petrol - they're very thirsty.
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Next thing you know, all the RHOCAR members list will be published, we will never be able to go home again for fear of the Westy guys coming around to do us over!!!!!!!!!!!
I doubt that they're hard enough!
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Doh,
got to get my ar£e in gear then!!!!!
That'll be me too I guess. Just what exactly are the differences to SVA (aside from the probably increase in cost)?
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No, but I'm assuming that it saves you having to unbolt the top ball joint taper from the hub carrier so you can rotate the ball joint to adjust it.
If the ball joint screws into this adaptor, I can't see how this could possibly fit a 2B top wishbone without some serious modifications to the wishbone.
It's not like you set the camber every 5 minutes, save youself £14 and don't bother.
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It's a bit of a long shot but has the harness still got a Rover part number on it anywhere? It'll probably start with YSB10xxx. If you can get a harness number then I'll probably be able to get a wiring diagram and stand a good chance of identifying what it is
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Can the screen wash pump be wired through a momentary switch on the dash (rather than column switches - think mine are broken), does it need a relay, and does it have to automatically trigger the wipers when you switch it?
Cheers.
Yes, no and no.
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Can't you loosen the dizzy clamp and have someone twist the dizzy round while you try and start it - should get it running at least and then you can get a light on it to get it spot on.
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Push in type have no visible bolt heads anywhere along the shaft, lobro joints have 6 bolt heads aroud both the inner and outer joints. No puller needed to do the push in type, just remove the wheel, brake drum and the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the backplate. Th shaft will then pull out of the diff and slide out through the trailing arm (make sure you've got a couple of feet clearance each side and watch for oil spillage from the diff.
Did mine about a month ago - inner and outer both sides and used the stretchy gaiters and bought a Draper plastic cone which was about 15 quid. Unlikely I'll use the tool again but as pretty well everything I'm likely to own is fwd I suppose you never know.
The proper gaiters have a steel can on them that slides around the outside of the joint and is staked over the joint to hold the joint together. I just cut off the old rubber part of the gaiter and left the cans in place
The gaiters take an unbelieveable amount of stetching - the bit that goes around the shaft (~25mm dia) has to stretch to fit over the joint (~70mm) but if you ease it over the cone carefully and use plenty of lubricant (oo er missus), it's not too bad.
I had to use a small screwdriver to help it along and ended up putting a pin hole in the gaiter but managed to just super glue that up easily enough so a blunter tool would have been a better idea.
I'm sceptical that a cut down Coke bottle would work as a cone, the tension on the gaiter was such that I think it would just collapse the big open end of the cone but then if someone has actually done it then it must be possible.
Finally, I left the hub and drive flange in place on the shaft (didn't undo the main driveshaft nut) so fitted the outer gaiters first, then turned the inner gaiter inside out, before sliding it on the cone and turning it back the right way round as I slid it off the cone onto the joint otherwise you end up with the inner gaiter back to front on the shaft.
Take your time so you don't damage the gaiters and you're probably looking at 3 hours to do all 4.
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zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz........................
The whole 'sport' is a farce - why does anyone waste their time following it? I'd find Saturday afternoon wrestling on World of Sport more believeable.
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ok i think ill save, want to do it right, what about the front suspension, whats the difference between sliding piller and one that works off a wishbone? has anyone get a conversion guide and perhaps a picture of one woth and one without?
Rich
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Richard I think Dave is on holiday at the moment so you may not get a reply til the weekend.
Peter,
thanks for that, yes he is, but he managed to get a text to me yesterday and we're going to speak when he gets back.
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i could find a home for that, but not a chance in hell of me getting there in the next 2 weekends
dave
Dave,
PM sent.
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Hi,
my sister bought a rover earlier this year and we've just realised we dont have the key for the locking wheel nuts. We do have the code though. Is there anywhere that we can order one to fit?
cheers
Assuming that they're OEM wheelnuts the locking tool should be in the moulded tray in the centre of the spare wheel. Genuine Rover loking wheelnut sets aren't cheap - about £60 a set if it's a R25/R45 or about £35 if it's a R75. The locking nut has a stainless steel cover over it that you have to remove with a plastic tool and then the nut has two recesses in the edge of it that are loosened by round pins on the unlocking tool.
I'd try one of the 55 new MG dealers - most of them are just the old MG Rover dealers and there's a good chance that they might still have the dealer set of wheelnut removing tools which would at least get the old ones off without damaging the wheels and then you might be able to get something else to replace them.
Go here http://www.mg-uk.co.uk/ask-mg/dealer-locator to see if there's one near you.
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Bench mounted sheet folder, surplus to requirements. This was made by my good self a while back for another vehicle project I was working on. It's been in a mates garage and as he's having a clearout and I no longer need it, it's got to go.
Works a treat on mild steel and I'm sure it'll do stainless too. It's a hefty bit of kit - should fold up to about 4' wide and the whole thing is getting on for 5' wide in all. Ideally wants to be bolted or clamped to a sturdy bench.
Looks like this
Could possibly do with a lick of paint if you were picky but might be just what someone here needs if they're doing a bit of sheet fabrication.
This is too good to throw away so it's Free to anyone who wants it, however you'll need to either come and get it this coming weekend (30th/31st August) when I'm around or else one night in the week. Item is located in Tamworth and you'll need at least a hatchback as it's heavy and long.
As it's free I'd prefer someone who's actually going to use it has it, rather than just come and get it for the sake of it - unless they're a loan shark of course.
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Mini front damper bolt is BH606321 - plenty for sale on Ebay. The part number decyphers as a 3/8" UNF x 4" long bolt Grade 8.8
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Remember it's a left hand thread on one side.
Garrett T3 Turbo Oil Drain Union/connection
in Wanted
Posted
I'm assuming it's the oval shape flange style with a 2 bolt fixing in which case there's some on Ebay for around £35 incl P+P from Japan which isn't exactly cheap.
I think I might have a new pipe off an Audi 80tdi kicking around in the garage - I'll have a look tonight and see what I can find. It's about 300mm long from memory with a braided flexible bit in the middle and a threaded union at the other end.