fry61

Should there be another switch in either of the lines to relay 3 coil (terminals 85 86) with-out which the fogs will be on when-ever the head/dip are on;or do I need to do better?

Thanks for input; I want to hub fit mud guards that cover more of the circumference & sit much closer to the tyre;would prefer metal ones as these are "repairable/reshapable with the all fixing 'ammer & if I can get them in ally or S/steel will remain self colour.

I would like to fit hub-mounted mudguards all round my 2B & would also like them to be made of ally or stainless; any-one know of a manufacturer?

Brake/clutch fluid or you've filled up with TRACTOR diesil!!

Made the complete boot on our 2B from S/Steel -- boxed around shocks then cut & folded a sheet to sit on chassis above diff & stepped up over petrol tank -- no tree huggers in my 'shop!!

Got the slotted tension bar/strip from the Sierra alternator ; if that's the one needed P.M address & I'll send it ASAP.

If you have rear wash/wipe on your coluum stalks could that be used via a relay?

Have a word with Tdci Boy it's one of his many jobs.

Malcolm,Give me a shout if you need some copper tube to extend your pipe runs,regards Bob.

B&Q do a very nice line in small air-cons --- 9000Btu of COOL in my work-shop to-day --- drove the temp down to 21C/70F lovely.

Sorry to report; Donnington is a NO GO; been cancelled due to redevelopement for F1 2010. (As reported in Complete Kit Car; mag recieved today)

Fitted the headlights to our 2B to-day,connected the battery for a play & ---- one sealed beam unit did a good impression of a smoke machine. Are they normally this fragile; been sitting quietely in the loft until today. Do members rate the sealed beam unit or would you recommend changing to something better/brighter? Would like to stick with 7"chrome units but need to keep cost down.

That's a pity ---I rather fancied the rubber-band ball look!!!

Have a new loom as supplied by GBS in March '07 going spare; but no paper-work was with it so not sure if Vicky Green.

Please check allignment of wish-bone mounts with straight rod/threaded bar first; bending wish-bones is very hard (fortunately) & 2 wrongs won't make the turning centres right ; it must all pivot around a common centre.

A small amount of filing to the leading "wing" of the rear wishbone chassis mount will give a big movement to the front mount -- assuming 10mm bolts for these mounts a 10mm legth of "silver steel" (from engineering supplies) will give best results for aligning all 4 holes as it will be dead right size-wise & straight (but is only 13" long in common stocks) threaded rod is undersize & may not be that straight (try rolling it on the kitchen work-top to check) any metal replaced by welding needs to be on the inside of the wing so the bush inner tube has a full surface bearing but if you only remove a very small amount of metal to obtain allignment this may not be necessary.

It's not just Sir Alan who needs an apprentice then Martin; my car building apprentice is progressing nicely & she makes a tasty dinner as well,regards Bob.

Thanks once again for the info as I hadn't intended leaving that much & would probably needed to do it again.

Went to Castle Combe on Saturday;drafty but not enouth rain to fill an egg-cup;unlike Steve Brice who abandoned the trip after being flooded-out in Exeter. About 20 Caterhams,several Westfields & some other 7's I could not I.D amonst the hundreds of tin-tops on display or hammering round the track; but unfortunately not one Hood creation as we went in our Jeep -- Florin 1.8i SMS is still in the making.

Thanks for the pic; how much clearance have you allowed - pipe to chassis & to bonnet;cheers.

Brilliant news;what a quick recovery from your rip-out --- could you post a pic of exhaust manifold - passenger side - looking for layout ideas - intend to go over the top as yours does.

Probably spent too much time building the axle stands -- was a tank a previous project or did the decimal point move when doing the calcs?

CBS over centre catch as shown is a solution ;but only after IVA. Our solution was to drill a 20mm hole in the S/steel bonnet,then a 5mm hole down through the return lip of the bonnet & on through the chassis tube;tap the chassis M6; drill out the lip to 6.5mm & secure bonnet to chassis rail with a M6 cap head set screw & speading washer. when locked tight fit 20mm blank grommet to blind hole in side. Has the added advantage of being able to close shut line between bonnet & side panel as much or little as you like without compromising security. Hope this helps.

Thanks Steve; I'll phone Steve to see if we can meet up -- weather should be good till Sunday.

I can only agree with Dan's view-- understated but smart is best-- all our running gear has been painted gloss black.