Shaft

That is the funniest thing i've read in a long, long time. I think we can all relate to it!! Sat and read it all, with the wife keep glaring at me for laughing out loud while she's watching crap on the telly. Bravo to that man, 10/10. Nick.

Very nice....... Are you going to machine a pattern from the Cad and then make a mould or machine a reverse of your model to create a mould?? What you going for, glass fibre or carbon?? Should be well smart when finished, certainly looks good on the screen dumps you've posted. Regards, Nick

Hi Jon, "Dia of shim washers" simply means:- The Diameter, (the distance from one side of the circle to the other passing through the centre point) needs to be the same diameter as the nylon bushes. The hole in the washer (or Shim as it was called) needs to be the same diameter as the steel tube. (14mm) HTH. Nick.

Hi Dinger, I've got a Rangerover one (Grey) or a Discovery one (black). Have a look at one in real life if you can (they're not as big as you might think). Let me know if interested, they're yours for the price of postage. Should only be £3 or £4 mate. HTH, Nick.

Hi Rob. Suspension mount bolts need to be 'kin tight. Torque setting these would be a struggle, as they deform the chassis mountings to suit the width of the liner tube in the wishbone ends. You could easily tighten to a torque value before they had pulled up properly. I did mine to 3.2 grunts (or in metric, 81.28) Trackrod ends etc, i intend to torque set as per Sierra. HTH, Nick.

DVD????????????????????? All i got was a CD with an assortment of random photo's of various cars. Oh well, it makes it more interesting. Nick.

Time served precision engineer / toolmaker. Spent 11 years milling/turning (mainly CNC) in the aerospace industry. Moved into the composite industry 7 years ago. Now more on the 3D CadCam design side, but still have a play on a couple of 5 axis millers. Make parts for 3 F1 teams and aerospace. I'm trying to talk the gaffer into letting me make some carbon fibre bits for my Zero build.???

welcome to the madhouse. i'm currently building mine, it's, err..... challenging to say the least. Nick.

Hi Mcramsey, Sorry if i pi###d you off a bit there, but i'm not trying to state that shoddy workmanship or it-will-do design practice is acceptable in any area of manufacturing, but as i'm sure you'll agree, this world is, unfortunately, full of "you get what you pay for" products. I agree with you it's wrong and pointless, but i do believe it is a real life issue that won't change. What i meant by a unique kit, not mass produced, wasn't really about how they would all look pictured in a line up, but the differences between cars due to the amount of builder input required to solve problems and such. We all look at problems and issues differently and as such solve them uniquely. Thats not to say one is right, one is wrong or one persons 'fix' is better than the next persons, just that i believe the amount of variance in the kits leads to a more bespoke finished car that the builder can be proud of. I'm 100% Pro GBS, much the same as you, and hope people read my previous post and leave with a positive, encouraging attitude that will, hopefully, assist them with their individual decisions with regard to building a car. I assume, as you used the diff mounts as an example in your response, your's where as far out as mine? I ended up cutting the bracket off the chassis and making a new one, it was 16mm out!! How far are you with your build? Cheers, Nick.

Hi Dan, I've got a set for my Zero here. I can get you dimensions off of them if you think it would help. They are the same ones as fitted to the Zero on the GBS Zero homepage. Nick.

I picked my Zero Plus kit up on the 11th December 2009. All went smoothly and i didn't feel rushed to load up and leave. There where a couple of items i refused to accept in the kit (chipped fibreglass / some stuff not as requested) but this was all noted on the invoice and replaced and/or remade by GBS within 7 days. I ,personnally speaking, can't fault them so far and would like to assure those who have kits on order not to panic too much about some of these horror stories. Yes, some of the kit doesn't fit properly, yes, some bits need redesigning or remaking from scratch, but as previous posts have mentioned, these kits are at the lower end of the price range within the 7 style of kit. I'm an precision engineer / tool maker by trade so perhaps i overlook some of the minor difficulties with the build, but i do appreciate there are many different skill levels of people on here building. That said, this is the best place known to man to get help, advice or assistance, so stick with it and you'll be blatting about in your very own bespoke creation sooner than you think. Who wants a mass produced, oohhhh, i've got one like that too kit car?? Not me. Good luck all, Nick.

Hi Darren, Mine are 43mm standard. Thats shaft length only, i.e.... not including the thickness of the head. HTH, Nick.

Hi Jason, I'd advise you to use a thermal insulator block between the inlet manifold and carb. The float chambers are very low in the Weber and if your looking for 170 BHP plus you'll be reving it high with a 3.5. Without an insulator you could end up running very lean due to fuel evaporation, particularly at higher RPM. The off the shelf ones from Weber / RPi etc are too thick for your application so make your own using a bit of Tufnoll, Phenolic or similar. Are you going solid lifters with adjustable pushrods?? Cheers, Nick.

................ " and some Wilwood calipers to stop me. (I'm blaming SHAFT for that bit) " Oi, i only opened the box, you and you alone chose to peek into it! Sounded well enough when you left anyway, could here you pull away from 3 junctions after you left, PMSL. Nick.

Hi Graham, The side panels can be riveted down into the top rail and up into the bottom rail as the panels have a return flange on to do this. Whether you rivet the sides or not is personnal preference really. I'm going to Sikaflex the sides, no rivets, as i don't like the battle ship look myelf. (No upset intended if you've riveted yours, my preference only). You can also rivet at the rear and front extreme's into the side as they will be hidden by the arches / nosecone. To ensure a good surface for the bond, abrade the panel ( where it contacts the chassis) and chassis with 120 grit paper and clean well with Acetone or similar prior to assembly. HTH, Nick.

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. Is that my old race engine you had off me or the one you originally had?? Nick.

Hi, Sikaflex ALL panels where they contact the chassis. As mentioned already in a previous post, it will strengthen the chassis, but also, it will eliminate any 'Drumming' of the panels when driving. I bought 12 tubes of genuine Sikaflex from Ebay for £35. GBS want £8 a tube for cheapo stuff. Buy cheap as chips nail polish remover (Acetone) to wipe the chassis / panels with to ensure a really good bond. HTH. Nick.

Hi Dean, I got the proper items from a local bike breakers for £10 all 4. (CBR 900 Fireblade ones.) I'd be wary of plain bore hose to be honest, the proper ones are ribbed to ensure a good 'bite' on the carbs / manifold. Your call mate, just my opinion. Nick.

I got a Tank Driving day from the wife and Clarkson's new DVD & Book, and the new Top Gear DVD from the kids...... The biggest present the wife told me i got was................. ........ that she didn't b*ll*#k me when the Visa bill came and she saw my payment to Bogg Brothers. Bless her. Here's to a good New Year to all. Nick.

I like the X factor, strictly come dancing, i'm a celebrity.... & dancing on ice............. BECAUSE, when the wife settles down to watch them....... i get to go down the garage. What da ya think? lol. Nick.

Hi peeps, just had to share this i found. Follow this link http://portablenorthpole.tv/watch/09d93640555c8507ick It's simple to do and the result is you get a personnalized video clip for your child (or wife, lol) from Santa. If it says /error, don't worry, just use your back button and click next again. It works, it's just very busy. The links will error, on the screen it says click here in green, use that. This is genuine, not spam or malicious. i am a member after all. ;-) I've got 2 girls 5 & 8 and they where completely mesmerized, brought a lump to my throat watching them watch it. Merry Christmas all, Nick.

Calipers still available if anybody wants them. Cheers, Nick.

Sorry, it's sold. Tried to reply by PM to you, but it say's your inbox is full, so won't send it. Cheers Nick.

Hi Steve, the best way to form a 'Seat' for the fuel tank is as follows. 1; Mark on tank where the chassis rails will be and remove tank to your bench. 2; Stick brown parcel tape to the tank where you marked it. 3; Lightly abrade the chassis rails where the tank will contact and degrease / clean using thinners. 4; Apply a GOOD bead of Sikaflex or similar to the chassis. 5; Place tank on sikaflex and work it down until your happy with how it sits. 6; Ratchet strap or clamp in place and leave to dry. ....... ....... 7; Lift away tank and trim excess Sikaflex away to leave a clean perfectly formed saddle for your tank. 8; Don't use masking tape instead of parcel tape........ *bleep* to blanket springs to mind. Hope this helps mate. Nick.

Welcome Graham, i picked my kit up Friday just gone. I was counting the time left in number of sleeps to go!! So your not the only one to revert back to being a kid!! Good luck with the build mate, and this forum is excellent in every way. Nick.