sj-bradley

There are some pictures of me bending the rear panel and scuttle to fit which you can find on my web site below. Simon.

Maybe Mick, but a bit hard getting a 2.5mm radius edge on 3mm plate. Simon.

As far as I remember, there is now a "glass missing" section which means if items like the wiper motor is present, but no screen, they should technically fail you on that now. It was added after my IVA and I only had the washer bottle fitted at that time too. This might also cause a fail on "glass missing" category. Simon.

What a fantastic weekend. Car is now in garage again - hopefully drying itself out ... Simon.

It's not the top frame that's the problem, but the windscreen pillars made from 2 or 3 mm flat steel. It's these edges that would not pass the edge test. If you can find some way to make these rounded too, then it should pass. The normal door hinges are also too sharp edged with the standard fittings. Simon.

I can't remember what model Clarke Mig I have (I'll look tomorrow) but I know it can be both gas and gasless. I also have a small stick welder which I find can produce better welds on thicker material. Again, I don't practice enough with these, but I have passed the level 3 C&G welding certificate which also involved gas and Tig welding aluminium. Now, aluminium welding is NOT easy ! Simon.

As you're in S Yorkshire, you are welcome to come and try my stick and mig (gasless) type welder. Welding requires some skill and practice to get a good weld. If you want to try out, give me a call. (At Stoneleigh this weekend, so if you're going we can chat then?) Simon.

Whether the weather or whatever? Simon.

"theduck" - thanks for filling in this detail. It's been over 3 years since I went through this.

One point to really look over is the quality of the wiring in the vehicle as this is often a builder's weakest point. If it looks like a rats nest, how do you know safety items like seat belt mounts are correct? These are harder to see on this model. Don't be afraid to ask if someone is here local to you as we love to talk about our cars and can see other builds for what they are. And - TAKE OFF THOSE ROSE COLOURED GLASSES ! Simon.

I feel that you would be relying on the original builder's "build quality" which can vary from excellent down to abysmal. If you can find someone local who is a member of this club and has built or understands the build, ask if he can help you give this the once over. Simon.

As theduck says, £2000 for an unregistered car in this condition - maybe. But you would still have to prep it and go through the IVA However, as this listing has been removed "due to error in listing", this is a moot point. Simon.

If it's got a number plate holder on the rear and he declared it a "track day" car. This car "looks" like it was built for the road and not the track. Looks downright suspicious this one. Simon.

My memory still works then (Must post quicker ...) Simon.

Yes, ok, that sounds dead. However, did it just "click"? Some horns (old ones if I recall correctly) used to have a vibrating diaphragm which was adjusted by a central screw as the horn had a "vibrating" switch which made these work. It might be adjustable and work again. Simon.

I agree with theduck above (I tried to edit my post TWICE to add this and both times the forum ignored my edit ... ) Simon.

In that case, this car will need a LOT of work in order to get it road legal. Maybe even a complete strip down and rebuild. Simon.

Posting just crossed over. If it is not road legal now, then it NEEDS to go through the IVA test and the BUILDER has to declare that HE BUILT IT HIMSELF. So, kind of tricky if you are relying on his photos to prove the build. Also, track cars are usually built DOWN to be light and a lot of the REQUIREMENTS for passing the IVA (e.g sharp edges) are unlikely to be met. Simon.

No, that is called "Ringing" and would get your collar felt. Out of interest, does this vehicle already have a licence plate and V5? If not, then what he is suggesting sounds real dodgy and illegal. Simon.

No. If it doesn't say "Robin Hood" on the V5 - walk away. If it still says Sierra or something else, it is not legal. Or is this a part built - unfinished car? If so, then it NEEDS to go through the IVA test. Budget on £1000 to cover this test, possible re-test, first TAX and £55 initial registration fee. All adds up to a good chunk of that £1000 Simon.

How have you tested these horns? Simon.

When I say that the lamp lights brightly, it means there is no other load on that circuit between those two points and the lamp restricts the maximum current to approx 2 amps. Replacing with a wire would be akin to dropping a spanner across the battery with the expected short circuit melting wires if there is no fuse to protect them. If the lamp DOESN'T light up, either these two points are already at the same potential (zero or +12) or that the load being driven requires much less than 2 amps (E.g relay coils). (Just to explain what the lamp means) Simon.

The problem with relying on the colours of wires used in cars is, they CAN'T be relied upon to be correct. All the colours are really useful for is telling you which end of the wire is connected to the other end (and even THAT can be wrong) You need a good multimeter to trace the wires and write down what is connected to what when you find the ends. To help prevent short circuits, a high wattage bulb (21 Watt indicator is ok) with two wires can be used to connect two points. If the lamp lights up brightly then replacing this with a wire is WRONG as there is a direct short from +ve to -ve between these two points. The lamp helps prevent you burning out wiring and / or blowing fuses. Sidelights also are not high wattage so do not need a relay. In other words, they are directly switched through a low amp (3 or 5 amp most likely no higher) fuse. The relays are to be regarded as high current switches operated by a low current stalk / dash switch. This means thin wires operate the coil and the thick wires take the current load to the main headlights. From you description above, it is almost impossible to help. If you can post up what you have drawn in terms of wiring diagram, it will say more than 1000 words can. Thanks, Simon.

PM sent. Simon.

If the fuel cannot flow freely, then pumps have to both push AND pull fuel through the pipes. If this happens, then a low pressure point happens before the pump and this can lead to easier cavitation around the pump blades. If this happens, you will hear a marked increase in noise. AND, more importantly, cavitation is a HIGH WEAR phenomenon as the minute bubbles created collapse at supersonic speeds and produce a fluid hammer effect on the moving parts leading to pitting and excessive wear on the pump. Simon.