knights_templar

the small alternator used on the Zetec does have an ignition feed for the internal electronics. If the ignition was left ON whilst you fiddled, it may get warm, but hot? if you did not start the engine, the alternator will not produce any charge, or turn fast enough for a mechanical fault to be apparent, so must be electronics, which do produce heat, but to what degree is debatable.

and I missed the "a". too many "Beck's". that’s spelt right, I copied it off a bottle

Dooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh As I said, I'm not the English expert, nor spelling, or grammar, and you are right, I deserve the clip around the ear. but I do have little knowledge of IVA

to be fair it is down to the interpretation of the written word, and the use of English. "The rear fog lamp(s) must only illuminate when dipped beam, main beam or front fog lamps are lit" says to me the rear fog light must work with either dipped, main or fog if they required dipped and main would it not read "The rear fog lamp(s) must only illuminate when dipped beam and main beam, or front fog lamps are lit" regrettably, my expert, my farther, an English literature teacher, and expert in Greek, Latin and Anglo Saxon, passed away last year, so can not check the English, but I do know a couple of testers and their interpretation is as mine, I can not say that all testers will agree. perhaps it is worth builders talking with their proposed test centre to confirm their interpretation.

So you agree, dip OR main

a lot of advise, but, at the risk of being "unpopular", after double checking the IVA manual, it is only necessary for the fog light to work with dip, OR main, but who would use main in fog? so if we can not use the brown black link wire, we can simply take a feed from the output of the dip beam relay and run it to the fog light switch.

teach me for reading post out of sequence, you haven’t the spades? stupid me. You have replaced one odd switch, out of the nine different versions made, with another, the joys of Ebay. not a problem if you don’t have the relay, as you indicate it is pre 1985 earth pin 31 NOT live, fit relay into circuit at headlight join, yellow wire, to reverse switching and lessen the load

save your money, if you want power, you will not beet the GBS map. many have tried, at a cost, but appear to vary by only a few BHP, that can be machine error, difference in transmission loading, weather, you name it. if you want emissions, that is another thing entirely, the GBS emission map is "close" but without the advantage of feedback it can not be guaranteed, be prepared to intervene. I do not know of an economy map. "Persuasion" is possibly easiest way, but you will have to hope the tester does not read the bulletins, if it isn’t in their emission database they are meant to use the number plate year, or refer to log book for date of registration. or so I'm told.

"I know nothing"...."nothing" for those ancient enough to remember Hogans Heroes. as longboarder says, early switch does not use relays, and the later switch, both earth switch and live switch, may not take the power. quick look at book, this is how I see it , BUT, it needs checking. longboarder? old light switch. live for headlight DIP beam comes from pin 15 off the light switch, and out off S54 of the light switch, when headlight are switched ON, this is linked to the headlight flasher switch pin 56. on your new switch there is no pin 15, instead it uses spade 31 as one side of the circuit, live or earth, BUT connects to pin 56 when the headlights are ON, which again is linked to the headlight flasher switch pin 56. so assuming you are changing JUST the light/wiper stalk disconnect the wire to pin 15 and extend it to spade 31, as there is no pin S54 you will need to make sure that the link wire is connected to pin 56. Switch load pre 1985 Sierra looms did not have relays for the headlights, after 1985 with your early switch, it did, for DIP beam only, if you have the relay it should be fine, if not I think you will need to put a relay into circuit. I think the easiest place would be where the yellow wire exits the loom at the headlights. If you intend to change the headlight/indicator stalk as well, there will be more changes required. interested to see if people agree/disagree with theory, as I have no way of checking

95 is crossover as Sapperpaul says, and you will have to be able to prove age of engine or they will test as if new. Ford engines use an age code in there engine number, if you are going to Nottingham they just refer to a list they have, other sites appear to require documentary evidence.

brown black wire between stalks

one warning light is simple enough, just use diodes. can run up a diagram if needed, but I am sure someone on here will have one prepared. toggle switch is also possible, but it will depend on your switch how you can wire it. if it has one set of contacts you will have to have a permanent live to the flasher unit, this unfortunately means that the indicators will also work all the time ignition on or off. switch the left and right indicators on with switch, through diodes, to prevent cross feeding with indicator. if it is a two pole switch, or you can replace it with one, one pole can switch on the flasher unit, the other the indicators, as above with diodes. Can also run up diagram if required, but again suspect that I will be beaten to it.

Found this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_registration_plates_of_the_United_Kingdom,_Crown_dependencies_and_overseas_territories#1960s_to_1982 I read it as FMS = Chester, but haven’t read it all

the fuel reg is Ford, the throttle is Ford and the injectors are Ford, The Plenham is simply to direct the air from throttle to inlet valve. provided the ECU is mapped with everything connected it should make little difference, removing the vac link or changing the reg after mapping will require a re map. GBS don’t use the vac link either with ford or aftermarket reg

what do GBS do? You can't go far wrong doing what the manufacture advises.

standard Zetec engine alloy sump casing will require trimming, but it would be better for ground clearance to fit a raised sump which has provision for starter motor

Dickie, controling fuel is one part of the equation, but air is also a factor. You have IVAC so you have greater control, but it will still require some fiddling to get them to match the START of the map. Standard MAP fuel pressure is 3.0 bar, but the Ford regulator, the one genrally used on the GBS plenham, is usualy 2.8. Given also that the injection scaling varies MAP to MAP, dependant on throttles, you may inprove running but you will not get it acurate without RR. That said, RR is best done AFTER IVA, so you do not have to do it twice, so I think your IVA plan will probably be the best way forward. do not waist money untill you need to

switch type is important if you are using the Ford loom. If you have an after market loom, they usually live switch the relays, both switches can switch live.

pin 10 and 11, white and black are the power supply to the three wire hall effect sender all pin numbers refer to the GBS dash plug pin 10 bridge to pin 1 pin 11 bridge to pin 20 This connection is normally in the GBS P&P dash loom

even set at emerald you may have to tweak at test.

morning CMA would have to agree on the generic map, Dickies 1.8 may not match the 2ltr GBS maps anyway.

does it state GBS plenum?

If you have the Emerald from GBS get the plenum power and emission map from them, but you will have to set up the ICV as it isnt in the map as standard, the basic set-up is a bit of a fiddle, saw a step by step procedure on their web site which may help.

The base map is very base, you will need either the maps from GBS or a RR session. If you haven't gone through IVA as yet you will also need the emission maps and a bit of knowledge to adjust it, if needed, at the test centre, if they allow. For now though for pre road use the map can be tweaked, but which throttles are you on?

that looks like the standard zero type. key can not be removed when unlocked, so meets IVA. http://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=194&search=fuel&page=2