knights_templar

to be honest, I don't know, I've have had to adjust the pairs, most setups I've seen, but adjustment of individual throttles is rarer and usually achieved by adjusting on one throttle. there is a procedure but I will have to get to a manual to remind myself of it. my guess is you set all the bypass screws the same position (in till bites out a set angle or turns) then wind back tick-over, as mentioned above, set mechanically, and only touch air bypass on one throttle per bank. best advise at 00:08, check your manual, and start afresh good night

me again gasket OK if No 4 is fully in we may have found the problem. balance between the two pairs is mechanical, and often missed, the adjusters for each body are air by pass. have you adjusted the air bypass screws first before the mechanical adjustment?

have re listened to your video, good idea that. engine is running very uneven, and appears to be missing, no point in playing with ECU until that is sorted. follow above, but I suspect you will be taking the inlet off to check seals and gasket, think it should it have spacer gasket between manifold and head? but throttles are clearly out. regards

Hi again think we better go back a few steps. put in a clean copy of the power map, its friendlier. balance throttles so the read EXACTLY the same. and again set tick-over as above, touch anything on the throttles re-set TPS set tick-over 900 to 950 now does the engine run happy? if it doesn't, switch OFF idle stabilization, its a pain and doesn't help. does she run happy now? if no, have you touched the pressure regulator, should be set at 3 bar from box, if GBS, ford regulator is set at 2.8 if I remember rightly, 0.2 bar should make little difference, map was done with 3 bar. if she is still running poorly you have another problem. have seen plugs enameled up after running with throttles set badly. I have also seen the plug caps missing the plugs, their rubber and can get lodged to the side of the plug, I would be inclined to check everything before touching the ECU If it runs fine, now is the time to try the emissions map, keep idle stabilization off, you can inject map whilst running, you will hear it hickup as it goes in but should keep running fine. again don't bother with rolling road just get it checked and adjusted on a gas analyzer, save your money until you have IVA and get it tuned up for power. regards

Hi Jenveys are OK with the power map, but are a little "awkward" when you try to lean the mixtures. you appear to have done your homework, re setting them up, half expected you not to have balanced, a common mistake. however one oddity with only having a TPS and temp sensors for the ECU, don't normally run lambda sensor, is that you can set the throttles to wide at tick-over, and then calibrating the TPS can completely confuse the issue. if it is backfiring at tick-over or there abouts this is the likely problem Ignore what the ECU says the AFR is at this point, with the engine running that erratically it won't be getting a true reading. remove air cleaner and pear down throttle tubes, if you can see a gap between throttle and tube, it is set to wide. slacken off the tick-over screw fully and re-cal TPS. start engine on throttle, it may be easier with power map, and turn in adjuster until it can run by itself. re-cal TPS at that position. AFR is only a guide to what is happening so don't assume that it will get through the test. the thing is, you don't need to pay for rolling road time, they are used to get max power, not emissions. what you need is a friendly garage with an mot gas tester, don't tell them you could overheat their test probe though. tick over setting can be achieved easily and if everything else is OK is near on with the emission map anyway, the messing is at 2500 to 3000 rpm, as you adjust the boxes you will see that the throttles have to move to maintain rpm criteria, in-turn moving to different load sites, a little trial and error but when set the lambda sensor should keep it on track, if it can't you may have air leaks into inlet or exhaust, another known problem. let us know how you go Regards

Hi get the base emission map for your setup, which should get you close, and set the ECU to use the wide band in adaptive mode, you will have to set the lambda calibration to your sensor type, the AFR will then look after itself. re timing should not be necessary. unfortunately there are other variables, that will give you the effects you describe. you haven't said but I guess your on Jenvey's, am I right? regards

cbr1000 carbs make sure you have the pipe on the fuel feed not the vent, easy mistake and short of jammed floats the most likely explanation

should be interesting, waiting for pics

Hi do you need MAP? usually just run with TPS, air and water temp. bolt in tyre valve is an option. Regards

Hi red = sidelights green/violet = stop green = turn black = ground which loom do you have?

they don't like that now

believe you could go for new plate (eg 61) worth enquiring, should be of higher value than Q or age related.

Cat required, even for age related. Lambda not essential, but helps with feed back to ECU. as femster says, depends on ECU and your set-up.

clean it up, use top bottom and front mounts, and use the back mount (not normally fitted) shounld work fine.

Hi mowerman the question was will an S7 get through IVA now. yours is a nice example, and there are many out there, unfortunately they are not to the testers taste at present how's the electrical mod going? regards

just noted when Snapperpaul passed SVA, things do change, as I said the one I took failed on structure this year. there is also "the opinion of the tester at the time of testing" the get out clause. my advise would be to talk to the tester of the station you intend to use, take the vehicle along if you can and ask advise, I have always found them obliging. In reality, you can get anything through IVA, provided it meets the rules, the questions are, "is it cost effective to attempt?" in time, materials and retests, and, "what do you have in terms of a drivable vehicle or standing value?" after you have. that will open another debate I'm sure. there may be a reason for that. Regards

http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-manufacture-dates.html

I must be very slow at typing, this thread keeps changing as I type :-)

Snapperpaul replied whilst I was typing, sorry to say I am NOT being over dramatic. I took an S7 for test at the beginning of the year, it failed because of the structure. The testers did acknowledge that under the SVA the S7 got through and a few had also been assessed under the IVA at various test centres, and passed incorrectly, put down to tester "interpretation" of the book. they did admit to passing one them selves but only after it had been strengthened. I understand that after a problem with a vehicle at a southern test centre, the situation was "clarified", my local centre says no chassis, no certificate. I have spoken to the professional builder of the vehicle that they had passed, he had built a ladder chassis inside the box structure, effectively tying front sub frame to rear. as well as the mods already listed by Snapperpaul. If you have one on the road, I am sure you will know that the structure twists during driving, and having watched what happens to the body when the vehicle I took had its brakes tested on rollers I'm not sure I would want to drive it anyway. Regards

Hi As I am sure you are aware, Robin Hood, who made the S7, has morphed into Great British Sports Cars (GBS) their current car is the Zero. That chassis should take the components you already have and does give alternatives as to engine and possibly gearbox if a Sierra does not come along. I would suggest talking to GBS, in particular, Richard, who was with the company when the S7 was around and designed the current car. http://www.robinhoodsportscars.co.uk/ regards

Hi You have to be able to prove the strength of the monocoque structure. (if they realise it is a monocoque) I believe they will accept computer generated test data, or crash testing, neither of which is available to my knowledge. the only vehicle I know off that got through under current rules, legitimately, had a space frame chassis constructed inside the body structure. You have enquired about a sierra, so how much of the vehicle do you have? Simon

Hi The GBS mount IS the sierra mount used for type 9 and MT75 trim outer edge to fit into recess in chassis, drill four hole to match chassis plate and secure with nuts and bolts two types of plate though, depending on age of chassis, edge of plate up, mount on top, edge of plate down, mount under plate. as a member of the form will testify, it is unwise to alter from standard. regards

Hi I seem to remember there is some info about tacho signals in the megajolt instructions about some compatibility issue, however EDIS 4 does have an out signal on pin 11, (which may or may not be blanked in the loom plug, but should be gettable with little effort) 4 cylinder EDIS module pinout Signal EDIS Module Terminal PIP (EDIS output signal) 1 IDM (diagnostic signal to ECU) 2 SAW (ECU spark control signal) 3 IGN GND (signal return) 4 VRS - (crank sensor negative) 5 VRS +(crank sensor positive) 6 VRS shield (crank sensor shield) 7 VPWR (ignition switched 12 volts) 8 PWR GND 9 COIL 1 (coil drive) 10 CTO (clean tach out) 11 COIL 2 (coil drive) 12

Hi only two small areas need trim, approx 2inch at either side, where the lower edge bends around to the sides. It is not necessary to do the whole edge of the diffuser mounts as they are under the car. Diffuser does look nice though Regards

you have most of what you need on the engine you already have. add an ECU, GBS advise Emerald, and have a loom to plug in (if you have P&P harness), although there are others out there. Mondeo ECU will require a lot of work and more components than you have, as well as a interesting wiring project. Regards