Joel

I had very good results fitting the original Sierra damper in addition to the zimmers on the back of a 2B. I think that's the basic problem - the zimmer spring rates are probably fine but they're under damped. In any case this was just a short-term fix and changing to GAZ or equivalent is definitely the long term solution. A word of warning about the Dampertech GAZ kit though - great price and great service, but it's a one size fits all kit, and whilst it will invariably fit, it might not be perfect. I found, on the rears particularly, I had to wind them right up to get sufficient ride height. If that kind of thing bothers you, you might be better off getting some made to spec, albeit at a price premium.

DOH Electrical muppetry all round in the Whittle household this week. Turns out I had indeed taken the feed from the tail lights. I was fooled by a rogue black/red wire, which I'd assumed was the default brake wire colour, but obviously not on my car!

Good luck to you both (Steve and Rich). Let us know how you get on

Nigel, I think on this occasion the only thing that's confused was me! I had my multimeter on the wrong setting! , and once changed I did indeed get the full range of throttle readings, as you predicted.

Does anyone have any Megasquirt maps for a pinto, to get me started? As close to my spec as possible would be great. It's a 2.1 Pinto running on bike throttle bodies, EDIS, FR32 Cam, etc. Many thanks.

I fitted a high-level 3rd brake light to the roll bar months ago, but today's the first time I've actually hooked up a battery to test it, and it's coming on with the side/tail lights. I took the feed for it from the main brake lights which use a common bulb for brake/tail lighting, so I can kind of see how it's happening but I can't get my head around how to fix it. Do I need to run a seperate feed in all the way from the brake switch, or am I missing something more obvious? The regular brake lights do work alone of course, without the side lights on, so in my head I can't see why this wouldn't work. Could it be something to do with using a common earth? Cheers.

Make sure you get rid of any trace of polish/wax too as that'll give you problems.

Ahh yes, that's essentially what I did Nigel. You just explained it a whole load better. So what I found in each case was that... One pair of pins did nothing One pair of pins the resistance rose up to half throttle then had no further response. One pair of pins had no response up to half throttle, then the resistance dropped to full throttle. The pin-pairs where different in each case but the above response was the same.

Right, how to explain this as simply as possible...... OK, I'm trying to decipher the wiring order of a Throttle Position Sensor. I have two TPS's of different makes, both of the 3-pin type. I know the wiring configuration of one but not the other - presumably each has a supply, earth, and signal feed. I've measured the resistance accross all the pins of each, whilst operating the TPS from open to closed, and whilst the figures and pin-order are different for each, the resistance response as I open and close the TPS is the same (i.e in each case the 3 pins have 3 distinct reactions to operating the TPS). So, am I right in saying if a pin on the first TPS has a certain resistance response to operation (i.e. the resistance increases), then the pin with the same reaction on the other TPS would correspond? Even if that is pin-1 on the first and pin-3 on the other? I hope that makes sense?

Ah, just had a response from Webcon to confirm the above. Thanks chaps.

Just received my shiny new adjustable fuel pressure regulator, albeit with no instructions and not a clue how to set it up. So, which connector (bottom or side) is in and out? I assume the smaller top connector is for a vacuum? It's adjustable, but it's just a nut you tighten so how do you know what pressure you're at and is there a factory default? Cheers Joel.

Thanks all, that does indeed make life easier. Alan, I'm injecting a pinto using Honda CBR (600 RR I think?) throttle bodies. I'd be happy with around 130bhp, slightly disgruntled with less than 120 and amazed if it's more than 140, but in any case the injectors should be up to the job. I have an adjustable pressure regulator so there's a little room for adjustment, but the main aim is refined and reliable rather than raucous and racy.

Can anyone confirm that standard zetec injectors (Bosch 0280 155 820) are HIGH impedence? I need to set up Megasquirt accordingly and don't want to fry them, as explained below... ..."To tune the PWM [pulse width modulation] values for your engine, you need to know what kind of injectors you have- low impedance or high-impedance. If you are running high-impedance injectors (greater than 10 Ohms), then set the PWM time to a number like 25.4, in essence you are disabling the PWM mode. This allows full voltage to the injectors throughout the pulse width. For low-impedance injectors (less than 3 Ohms), you need to limit the current to avoid overheating the injectors. To do this, there is a period of time that you apply full battery voltage [peak] current, then switch over to a lower current-averaged [hold] current, i.e. peak and hold. Alternatively, you can add resistors in series with the injectors. High impedance injectors can run on 12 Volts without problems. Low-impedance injectors require some form of current limiting...." Cheers.

Me too.

I'm about to buy a fuel pressure regulator for an injection setup, and was wondering if it's worth getting an adjustable one? It's a fairly mild setup (tuned pinto with bike TB's and zetec injectors), so I don't foresee needing higher than normal pressure, but for the sake of a few extra ££... On the same subject, am I right in thinking 3 bar is 'normal' for fuel injection? Cheers.

Sorry, sold a few weeks ago.

I'd imagined this could be a problem so when I had my manifold made up I specced some webbing to be welded between each inlet pipe, onto which I could bolt a bit of bracketry to support the TB's. Hopefully a picture will make things clearer...

This was my interpretation too, and I've had two cars passed with the belts routed round the seats rather than through. (albeit SVA not IVA) My understanding is that if they're functional for removing heat then they're exempt from the sharp edge test. I've recently put a Model A Ford replica through IVA, whose bonnet is basically one huge cheese-grater vent, and that passed no problem.

Very shiny

Thanks for the replies, very informative... I'm using a Megasquirt ECU, which if memory serves me correctly does have provision for vacuum attachment, though until now I hadn't considered that I might actually need it. There are quite a few vac take-offs on top of the TB's, which I've currently got connected together to hopefully give some brake vac assistance. Let me know if you spot any obvious flaws in this plan. The injectors are zetec ones, which should be more than capable enough for my application - I'd be frankly amazed if my lowly pinto made 165BHP !! Getting back to the original problem, I've got an ITG JC50 air filter already, but the fuel rail cuts into the space where the back plate would normally sit, and I don't know if or how 'normal' trumpets would attach the the CBR throttle bodies, hence the idea of fabricating something. Presumably Honda have a solution - I might pop down to my local bike shop and poke around the parts depot.

I'm trying to figure out how to attach an air filter or air box to my throttle bodies. I'm thinking of fabricating something to fit inside the flange (see pic) that gives a good air flow into the chambers, but there's some holes I'm worried about blocking as I don't know what they do. The TB's are from (I think) a Honda CBR. There are some sprung pins on the top of the TB's which open a series of holes when lifted, but they're not connected to anything and I don't see how they could operate by vacuum. Any ideas what function these might perform?

I had a similar experience recently where the application was apprently held-up in the 'Technical Department'. It turned out the technical department were waiting to hear back from me with a query, but there was a mix up with my contact details, so I had no idea they'd tried to contact me and we were both effectively waiting to hear from each other. It's worth persisting with the nice girl on reception, and trying to talk to someone in Technical to see what the hold up is.

Thanks everyone To be fair to Birmingham DVLA, they were pretty good with the paperwork. They just couldn't spare someone to do the BUI, which seems a crazy situation given the car was there, VOSA and DVLA are on opposite sides of the road, and it would have taken all of 2 minutes! But that's life. Nigel - Ian - I've already missed 2 weddings I'd promised it would be ready for! Jess - BUI is booked for April 5th, so it won't be registered in time for this month, but I should make the one before Stoneleigh. Paul - It's a Sierra donor the same as a Robin Hood.

...a PASS It's my third car through SVA/IVA, and none had previously passed first time, so I'm really chuffed. In fact I'm feeling more relieved than anything at the moment, but I'm sure the happiness will kick-in this evening. The examiner was excellent and couldn't have been more helpful. There was a few issues to resolve but rather than just telling us to go away and fix them, he was full of help and suggestions to get it all sorted there and then - Almost willing us to pass. The usual thanks to all on here who've helped with advice over the past.....7 years!! Good grief, is it really that long? Shame the DVLA (on the opposite side of the road) couldn't spare someone for 2 minutes to do the BUI, but today's not for grumbling. Incidentally, most people probably already know that Brum VOSA is closing this summer, but I learned today it's relocating to Kidderminster, so we won't have to go to Derby/Nottingham afterall. Time for a beer.