Jez Morton

Hi Phil I'm Binley area fairly close to the A46. I'll PM the address to when you come down. I've not been to the Locost meet do you have any details. Jez

Curious problem, I'd start at the battery check you have 12 volts min before you start if not battery needs changing. I guess your measuring from red or green wire to the black wire, try to measure from red or geen to chassis if this reads 12 volts same as battery you have a bad earth connection between the black wire and chassis. I think the red wire is main and green dip, in test one you have power to main beam not dip, check both sides are wired the same you could have crossed circuits main one side and dip the other. If the car is using a Vicki Green loom the red should connect to a blue/white and green to a blue/white. Good luck Jez

For £5 its got to be pick up only or meet at Stoneleigh. Why dont you come and get them if they dont fit pass them on youd get your money back. A bit more info the hood kit I got was for a 3A originally which I fitted as a replacement to a Series 1, I already had bars fitted so these where surplus. I have a 2B now and they would fit that, the fit is more a question of where you mount the brackets. Jez

£5 set of hood support bars of pre 2B Robinhood and are unused, they are painted in primer so are not rusty. They are 44" wide at the end and stand 22.5" high, second bar fits inside and they come with the RHE straps. Jez

I,m using standard roll bar and I have the RHE boot cover. I've now managed to fit it but it has to ride up slightly on the corners and the fit at the back of the doors is bit wider than I would have wanted. Thanks for looking.

I'm after some tips on fitting the weather gear to my 2B, I have the hood on the car with the front and rear poppers fitted but the car seems too wide across the back for the roof. Has anyone else found this and over come it. Cheers Jez

2B long ali radiator as supplied by RHE never used as wouldnt fit with EFI, its had some surplus bits cut off which need to be removed to fit. £10 Jez

I think taking it out will be only option as you will need to clean out any swarf and filings. I guess its a stainless tank, if it is then dont bother with tank cutters they wont last and can wonder around making a mess. Mark the hole you want then mark another circle inside say less 8mm diameter then chain drill (lots of holes close to each other) around the the inner circle with a 6mm drill, knock out the middle and file out to the required size. This does take a bit of time but will get the hole done neatly without deforming the metal which is useful for sealing the sender. Jez

I've got exactly the same issue, but if you lower the rear ride height you will increase the wheel camber which will need to be corrected with wedges. My zimmers are at there lowest adjustment with no tension on the spring so lowering would mean cutting the upper tubes, with the camber issue and cutting I am living with the ride height. I will be changing to Gaz dampers or similar soon and will fit camber compensation wedges when the ride height is lowered. Jez

Dont worry theres nothing missing, the 3 terminal go down into the wiper gears for the park switch. Jez

I know should buy new ones, Rally Design can do a pair £130ish but I've got to convince the misses. She still thinks its a comprehensive kit with all good parts and I don't need to buy or change anything. Anyhow the tax is out at the end of the month so I just need to get the springs on for the next nine days then its laid up for the winter. (mmm christmas soon, dear santa I been a good boy and really would like some......). Jez

Thanks for the ofer but they are definately 1.9s, the body of the zimmers is 1.9" (mostly but the top 0.5" gets to 1.95"), the old springs are 2.05"ID and the ID of the new springs is 1.925".

I have a 2b plus and had an issue with the "plough" scrapping the floor, looking at some threads here a few people have replaced the springs so I've brought some new 350lb 1.9" springs. The problem I have is the springs wont go on the zimmers, looking at the zimmers the sleeve that goes over the shock to hold the spring bulges out at the top so the last 1/2" wont got through. Has anyone else had this issue and how have you overcome the issue, I've tried whacking them into shape, squashing them in the vice but no improvement. The only thing left I can think is to file the bulge down but this may weaken them. What do you think. Jez

Hi Karl, I'm 6' and bit larger than average, I had an MK1 S7 but which was a good fit but maybe not for someone taller. I now have a 2B plus and have no probs fitting, the seat even has another 3" it can move back so you would fit no probs. When you try a car the steering wheels can be a bit low but can be moved up in most cases. Good luck finding a car. Jez.

You could try and move the shock mounts outward I did this on a MK1 S7, moved them about 3-4" on wishbone and suspension actually started moving. Jez

Tie strap through some fuel type hose wrapped around the nut was good enough for my SVA. Lock nut is a must have. Jez

I'd recommend you replace the filler seal as they can go hard and not seal, Ford still do them for a couple of quid. You could try an oil filter gasket for the sender their quite deep. Jez

Try Merlin Motorsport I brought some from there about £20 each a couple of years ago. Jez

Be carefull using the old Ford relays, the pinouts are not standard. They will be numbered on the bottom 85 and 86 is the coil 30 is switch common 87 N/O switchcontact 87a N/C switch contact (if a 5pin). When compared to a standard modern relay pins 30 and 86 are swapped on the old Fords. PS wired mine as per NW no probs. Jez

Hi I'm in the same boat, I wanted to lower the rear. I have a 2004 purchased 2B plus, the videos say not cut the chassis down so I didn't. The car sits quite high at the rear but the important thing to note is the wheel camber is correct. To lower the car you will need to correct the extra camber angle you get when lowering by using some camber wedges (plenty of threads elswhere). I got some wedges then realised the Zimmers where at the minimum height so would not let the car down without changing the dampers or cutting the chassis. I decided to leave it as is and enjoy driving the car, well I would it would stop bloody raining. Jez

I had the same issue with coolman cap, its the split pin on the cap that fouls in the hole and stops it closing. Halfords still do a cap for cortina, capri etc which works just fine, number is HC01 or something similar. Jez

Good call £55 at Newark, even better they're halogen and make the sealed beams look like candles. Thanks Jez

I'm looking for some smaller headlamp units (5 3/4"), any condition will do I want black so I could paint up some rusty chrome jobs. Jez

No body laugh I had an automatic Cortina a few years ago, the box went wrong it was slow changing up and refused to go up to 3rd (top). I changed the oil cleaned filter which had no effect, then an auto box specialist I spoke to thought it might be a vacumn pipe had come off, it had and when reattached and box was fine. Jez

I went with 6mm plate and welded on a rib at one end which doubles up as the adjusting arm pivot bolt mounting. Can't say its lasted yet just passed SVA. Jez