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geoff shep

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Everything posted by geoff shep

  1. Ah - an option on the 2B - the plot thickens.
  2. Ah thanks - I had assumed it was for high backed seats. So I guess it was more likely a bespoke pattern. Is there any likelihood of the other one fitting a 2B - I don't know how the dimensions differ between that and the Exmo.
  3. Responding to Shaun in the wanted ads, I dug out some hoods that I had acquired at some stage. The question, is what are they from? Did they ever come pre-fitted with fasteners at some stage? They are better quality than the ones from my old S7 which were supplied unadulterated, but I have no real idea what they would fit.
  4. Are these the ones? I think they were RH - someone will confirm. Cant remember where I picked them up from but presumably had great ideas which never came to anything!
  5. And DVLA think it is an 1800 - his advert specs even say it is 1800 but his text says it is a 2L.
  6. You can enable Firefox or Chrome to see all those invisible photobucket pictures with these add-ons - they work a treat for me but I have not yet found a similar product for Safari. https://addons.mozilla.org/en-GB/firefox/addon/photobucket-fix/ https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hotlinkfix=1512490107700
  7. It was mentioned before - but in a 'for sale' thread for some reason - but a bit more info here: http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=45921&p=378267
  8. More than that even, Black Friday is not until 24 November so they are starting early it seems.
  9. geoff shep

    2B For Sale

    The 2b looks like an Exmo, and the gov.uk site shows it as a Robin Hood - https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk
  10. Ah yes, I see now, but interesting that it is not attached. In my unwelded zintec version there was a flange supplied to bolt the tunnel sides to the footwell bulkhead on each side.
  11. I think they were all the same - presumably it would not be possible to attach the bulkhead to the outside wall without weld marks appearing on the outside surface of the car.
  12. The other cause of looseness was the main bush, mentioned above, where the shaft went through the bulkhead. In the Sierra it was mounted snugly in a hole set at right angles to the shaft. In the kit it was supposed to be mounted in a fairly gash plasma-cut hole in a thin vertical panel. I made up a bracket of thicker material at a suitable angle to put it perpendicular to the shaft (as below). I also made a much sturdier bracket to replace the so called 'steering support bar' and it was all pretty solid.
  13. There were a couple of Mods needed for the steering shaft. One was to extend the triangular section by pulling the inner shaft out, but it was easy to move the plastic bush, which may have slipped up inside the larger shaft(?) so if you take it apart you may be able to re-position it. Otherwise, it may only be available from a scrap yard.
  14. Isn't there a plastic bush where one triangular shaft fits inside the other?
  15. Is this the same request as the other post? Are you only wanting 15" wheels?
  16. geoff shep

    Gearbox Removal

    Jim - are you talking about taking it out from underneath? I always found taking the engine out separately was the best option but I was using a crane. Taking both out together was more tricky single-handed and I seem to remember losing most of the gearbox oil out of the propshaft orifice!
  17. I have these, as supplied by RH at some time, set of 5, brand new in their boxes:
  18. For info, they still support the older app, if you still have the app on your device it will still get updates. If you don't, you can re-load it from here: http://uk.support.tomtom.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/22248/~/reinstalling-the-navigation-app-for-iphone However, it sounds like you are happy with the new version. I haven't tried it recently, but had a go with it when it first appeared and didn't like it at all - the graphics were a bit 'My First Satnav' - but if the traffic works better it might be worth a look. One of my biggest gripes with the older version and traffic, is that when you look at each traffic 'event' it shows the incident on a very small map, which you cannot zoom out to see where about it is.
  19. We need to know which model it is - there's a rough guide here: http://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm. On the Mk1 Sierra-based model the camber was 'adjusted' by placing a whole bunch of washers in front or behind the suspension pivot points. In could also be massively out if the anti-roll bar is fitted too far forward or back - and there was no procedure to accurately position it in the build process. There is an option to attach a file using the 'more reply options' button at the bottom right of the editing window. Your pictures need to be less than 100kb in size so you may need to reduce the size using whatever photo program you have. Failing that, you can upload the pictures to some sort of photo hosting site and add a link - for trivial pictures I use http://tinypic.com
  20. The original question may be a bit ambiguous, hence the number of responses, but there are 3 parts between the engine and the monocoque. There is a cast iron 'arm' which is bolted to the engine block, the rubber damper as above (both from the donor), and then the cheap and cheerful (cheap and nasty?) 'top hat section' supplied by RH. The meagre instructions from the old paper manual (for the model immediately before the Exmo) tell you to sit the engine on the top hats which are loosely placed on the floor panels, so that it can all be moved about later to achieve 'perfection' and only then bolt the top hats to the engine bay floor. Not sure if your top hats were welded in place by the builder or whether they came pre-welded - is it a fully stainless monocoque? A lot of the structure for the stainless bodies was pre-welded because of the difficulty drilling the harder stainless steel. These are the pictures provided in the book:
  21. Early ones had fluid filled rubber mounts something like this. Mine were this shape from a 1981 Sierra donor. Later ones were more like this (this picture from a webpage listing it as for a Sierra 1982 on): The early ones are like the proverbial rocking horse doodoo, but there appear to be similar 'uprated' ones available: eg: 4wd-escort-sierra-collins-performance-engineering-alloy-uprated-engine-mounts-1367-p.jpg
  22. I discussed this with Richard Stewart back in 1995, when I bought mine. The tunnel is part of the monocoque structure and it is wide enough at the front to accommodate the bell housing and tapers back towards the diff. I got the zintec version and had to drill and bolt the tunnel sides and top - the stainless versions were predominantly pre-welded because of the difficulty drilling the much harder stainless steel. Even then, I got through a number of drill bits. It is the same size at the back end as the previous live axle version but could be a lot narrower for an IRS setup with a fixed diff. It still needs to accommodate the gearbox at the front so would need to be some sort of waisted design which didn't conform to the keep it simple (and cheap) ethos. It has been done - there is another reference to it here: http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=44829
  23. Prior to SVA/IVA it was the norm to retain the original donor plate if there were enough donor parts in the final car, using a system of points. Mine was registered as a RH in 1996 and, since it was built entirely from one donor, retained the original plates, which I had in the footwell ready to be stuck on for the return journey from the registration office. I had to choose a name for it and went for Robin Hood Sierra 7, which is what is on the V5. The weird thing now is that I cannot get any records on the gov.uk registration site under Robin Hood or Ford or any combination of those, but the correct details show up on the gov.uk MOT history by entering it as a Robin Hood. Interestingly, the Eurocarparts website thinks it is as a Ford Sierra.
  24. MOT checker - it comes up with your car: https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk
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