brumster

Wot e said ^^ Just adding this as supporting opinion, that's all!

You lovely man, thanks for sharing ! I see there are some nice cheap VAG secondary/auxiliary pumps available brand new for <£20 so I might put that on my winter project list...

I would concur that it's a cut-up/modified Exmo; basically you can see where the sliding engine tray panels have been chopped about in the engine bay. As said above, the front buttresses have been chopped off and more conventional wishbones fitted (not a bad thing at all, assuming they've been done correctly!)

From what I know of K-Series discussions, the Craig Davies are popular just for convenience/ease because the "80" model pump fits the hoses easily. Me, I'm thinking something like a Bosch auxiliary pump (candidate cars include VW VR6-powered cars ie. golf, corrado) that I can put on a simple post-ignition timer, one I can trigger myself with a button (probably a circuit I'd make myself to be honest) that can simply run the pump on for 5 minutes or so. I'm not fussed for having the fan still going, I really just want to circulate water around the block for a bit, but I appreciate for you you might still need the fan

Will watch this with interest. I am casually interested in fitting an electric pump for post-cooling, not something I urgently need but a future enhancement I fancy doing. However given their proliferaiton in production cars now, I'm loathe to spend big bucks on a Davies Craig thing when I can probably half-inch one from a production car

Like most things, dictated law is one thing, enforcement is another I'd like to see the local council stop me burning the garden waste I accumulate because I'll be *bleep*ed if I'm taking it to the tip! I actually prefer the smokeless fuel anyway, it burns longer and cleaner with just a nice small pile of ash to clean away afterwards. edit: found some details here for those who are worried; doesn't seem all that bad https://www.hetas.co.uk/defras-clean-air-strategy/

Hmmm. No-one's dicked around with the map, I take it? If it started immediately after you changed those bits, then "ergo" it has to be in some way related to them (or incredibly unlucky that another problem started at exactly the same time!)...? So... doesn't make much sense really, maybe ignore the HT/coil/plug aspect and just treat it as a separate problem. In which case I'd be looking at the cold start map and fueling first. If you had an air leak the idle would most likely be off...

No, I know what you mean. I sometimes have to cook for the inlaws at their house, which is halogen hobs. I utterly hate it. There seems to be no control between the lowest and highest settings; your main control of heat is just the size of the hob and that's it. Our new induction hobs are totally as controllable as gas, and just as instantly (in fact, they warm up way quicker, for the technical reasons above). About the only downside I have with them is the fragility; you can't clatter pans around on the jobs or shuffle them on the surface as you'll damage it, exactly as fozzy says above.

An obvious suggestion, can you put the old stuff back in one by one to see if the problem goes away ? I'm also not a fan of these "fancy" mutli-prong spark plugs. It would seem to me you're maybe not getting as strong a spark at the plug - which could be any of the aspects you've changed, so it sort of makes sense.

We're all sorted and "cooking on gas", as the saying goes, but.. errm... not. Induction hobs are lovely, work great, I am a happy convert .

That's interesting. Makes sense; I've seen (on competition cars) that braided lines can fray over time but naturally put that down to rather extreme use . They also don't respond well to kinking or crushing and stay deformed afterwards, so I guess that's probably the problem.

Braided hoses are typically PTFE lined, not rubber. They are prefferential in every way, I'd say - they are more resilient to hits/cuts/damage, they last longer and they also maintain line pressure better than rubber. That's not to say there's anything wrong with rubber hoses, like you say they suit manufacturers of production cars day in and day out! As with all these things it's down to cost, I suspect You can also get braided lines made up to pretty much any length you want of course, but rubber ones you'll be having to half'inch them from a production car where the dimensions and fittings are exactly what you need.

I think that is more aimed at some of the earlier, narrower Sierra models where the subframe protruded outside of the body; in these cases they were often covered with a small dome (not sure whether it was stainless or GRP). It all depends if the part you're looking at there is below the "floor line", and that's defined in Annex 1 of the exterior projections - basically if you imagine a 30 degree cone on the floor, sitting flat on the floor and then pushed up to the car, where is touches the car at the front, back, sides, etc. defines the floor. At a very simple level, if you can put a flat ruler onto the edge of the stainless panel in that photo, and put it at an angle of 30 degree down under the car.... then if it touches the subframe, it needs to be rounded edges and so forth (all the usual exterior projections rules). Or cover it (but obviously whatever you cover it with also has to meet those rules). If however it's below that floor line (ie. the cone doesn't hit it) then it's not something to worry about but - looking at is - I don't suspect that's the case (ie. you have to consider it)

There you go, yep!

GTM provided a load of cut steel that you sandwiched together to make up a secondary caliper, and you then popped a couple of Citroen 2CV brake pads (about the size of a 2 pence piece!) into each side and presto, a handbrake mechanism. It was borderline effective (I'm being polite)

Yup, that's fine.

Not quite sure what you mean, but if you're on about sharp edges and whether they'd fail it for that, you will be fine. They're not that pedantic, that I'm aware of

Turn the wheel to full lock both ways, and with the suspension on full bump and full droop - if the hose doesn't get kinked, touch anything or get pulled taught at any point, then it'll be fine

Little cherry on the cake; treated the car to some new seats - the ubiquitous Odyssey seats from Intatrim.... Ordered at Stoneleigh, ready 6 weeks later, look nice - just set the car off a bit better than the previous onces I had from the Exmo that were blue (to match the Exmo)....

These are now out of the car

Oh blimey yeah, that's daft. I think I paid a tenner at Stoneleigh for it, it was on their stand they were just shifting excess stock I think.

See this link : https://parts.westfield-sportscars.co.uk/steering?product_id=538 Obviously you don't want the whole thing, you just want the rubber cover. Maybe if you ring them they can sell you one. It fits over Mountney steering wheel bosses.

Good news - I had the Mountney wheel and Westfield's (old) solution uses the same - a Mountney wheel with a rubber pad over the centre. I was at Stoneleigh and they had the pad for sale, snapped it up, fitted over my Mountney wheel centre, passed IVA. So I can recommend that route for you - just get the pad, pop it on your existing wheel, job's a good'un

Oh FFS, I'll be rallying in a pedal-powered sofa wrapped in blacmange-filled bubble wrap at this rate

I can confirm, I tried my old 13" Weller rims on the Zero when we got the chassis and exactly as David S says above, they won't go over the rear wishbones shame as I quite liked them!