Fuel Leaks

[Dean Roberts]

My wife and I have just purchased a 2b that has been garaged for approx. 2 years. After replacing the battery, flushing the radiator, changing the oil, filters, wash, wax and all the normal basic maintenance we have encountered a fuel leak from the pipe going into the fuel pump in the engine bay area.

 

I would normally just try to repair it, but after more investigation we have noticed the builder used a black braided fuel pipe from the tank to the pump and to test our patience further also noticed that the same pipe seems to be leaking from another place within the tunnel area and will be a pain in bum to get to as it runs along the tunnel next to the brake lines and above the gearbox.

 

The fuel pipe looks like this:

 

Being a newbie to the kit car world and a novice mechanic (my trade - computers), I would appreciate any advice/recommendations for the fixtures, fittings, adapters and fuel line, pipes to use before we send it in for an MOT.

 

I will also mention that when trying to start it after it's been standing, it takes a couple of attempts and drains the battery, could this be the leak?

 

I hopefully intend on attempting one of the options below depending on the outcome of your advice:

 

Option 1

As per previous forums entries I need to overhaul the entire fuel system, pipes etc… and look into adding an electric pump and all the other expensive stuff that goes with it?

Option 2

Do we just try to replace the pipe with an 8mm copper/steel pipe down the tunnel (don’t know how I going to secure it, with the gearbox in the way) and add braided or rubber piping to the ends (tank and fuel pump) with some adapters. Then as an added bonus to try and stop the cold starts by fitting a non-return valve?

Option 3

Get a mechanic to do it on your recommendations, due to the fuel hazard and my inexperience with such an important part of the car.

 

 

FYI: We have just fitted it with a new battery and paperwork informs us of a new alternator being fitted.

 

TIA - Dino & Nikki

[Guest Ian & Carole]

If it were my car, as a fix for the summer, I would just cut the rubber pipe and forget about it, leave were it is, it's doing no harm.

Get a reel of http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2eb7605bad pipe and a length of rubber spec petrol pipe and clips.

 

Car up as high as you can get it and run a the new pipe front to back out of the way as much as you can and clip to the floor.

 

If you think the pipe is too vulnerable under the car then, as long as you protect it when it exits the cockpit, through the fire walls you could run the pipe down the inside of the car along the carpet edge down the side of the tunnel, this will mean taking the seats out but it is an option.

There is no problem with the pipe in the car as long as there are no joints in the run. Most competition cars run lines inside the cars.

HTHs

[Jez Morton]

I'd go for option 2 fit copper in the tunnel and never have to go back in. You should be able to get one of the tunnel sides off and get in that way, either way it's not going to be a quick fix.

[Guest mower man]

The old saying Do it right once so you don't have to do it again for a year or two , copper pipe and proper spec flex for the joins is the real answer , with a bit of luck you will be able to wigle the copper pipe into the fixings used originaly a few hose clips and a junior hacksaw , job done its not rocket science ! mower man

[steve in stockport]

Braided hose is not really any good. You need R9 spec rubber hose to resist all the additives in modern fuel.

Use it to complete whichever of the opinions you follow above, but definitely bin the braided as it's already leaking where it's breaking down.

[Dean Roberts]

Thanks guys, I was hoping it would be option 2 (as we are on a budget).

 

Ian, never even considered leaving the old pipe and running the new one inside the cockpit area (thought it maybe dangerous).

Suppose I would need to use some kind of rubber grommets to protect the piping when entering and leaving the firewall/passenger cockpit.

 

As per Jez's comment, I might have a look under the passenger side carpets, seating and remove side tunnel if it's easy to get off without causing too much damage. Considering I have got to secure the handbrake and check the wiring after finding out that the screws holding the fancy leather interior to the tunnel seem to be rubbing against the wiring.

 

 

 

 

[Guest peter2b2002]

you can always try taking the tunnel top off to get inside and fit clips , copper pipe is the way to go( thats my next mod)

peter2b

[Snapperpaul]

What I did......

I used copper central heating microbore pipe, cheap for a roll from B&Q

I used 8mm injection fuel pipe from Halfords

 

AT THIS POINT check injection fuel pipe internal diameter as some is 9.5mm therefore 10mm microbore would be better

 

Where copper pipe goes through bulkheads I cut a large hole threaded some fuel hose over the copper pipe and used sikaflex to hold fuel hose to bulkhead, this stops any chafing

[stevedohc2b]

If it is a 2b there is a v in the center of tunnel top of tubes which is where I ran mine then ducking in side around gear stick

 

Stephen

[Dean Roberts]

Cheers for the feedback, I have decided to try and get the following stuff:

 

Copper pipe:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8MM-x-2-5MTR-SOFT-22G-EASY-FLARE-COPPER-FUEL-PIPE-/200645041069?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2eb7605bad

 

Rubber pipe:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-6mm-5-16-R9-FUEL-INJECTION-HOSE-RUBBER-PIPE-SAEJ30R9-/271092734786?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1e62db42

 

Stainless Clips:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-10-16mm-STAINLESS-STEEL-JUBILEE-HOSE-CLAMPS-PIPE-CLIPS-AIR-WATER-FUEL-/200986533330?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item2ecbbb1dd2

 

Please correct me if any of these items are wrong!

 

And then Sunday attempt to start stripping the passenger and tunnel area with the intention of trying to get the copper down thru the centre and secure it, rubber hose the ends and trim with the trusty hacksaw. If this fails then look at feeding it thru the firewall and passenger area and then into the tunnel after the gear selector using the old copper piping/rubber hose sikaflex trick ;-)

 

All the rest is just hard graft and common sense.

 

Fingers crossed.X

[theduck]

Those type of jubilee clips cut into rubber pipe as you tighten them

 

This type is better but the edges can still cut in if done too tight

 

 

but this type is best, same as above but with the outer edges rolled up which stops them cutting in.

[Longboarder]

Clips for fuel hose? This type gives 360 squeeze and is IMO best of all.

 

Nigel

[blue]

Just a quick thing but copper pipe should not be used in fuel lines the Impact of Ethanol Blended Petrol eats it way through it

 

Permitted ethanol content in petrol is 5% which is to rise to 10% in 2014.. However we are led to believe supermarket fuels may already have as much as 10% ...

That was a comment made in car mechanics magazine after a 2 issue article on the subject

[Snapperpaul]

Well so far 6 years and no issues

The braided hose however didn't make a month

[Dean Roberts]

OK cheers I will change the order to use the clips suggested by longboarder.

 

Another quick question...

 

Do you think it would be possible to coat the copper pipe in vaseline and then push in thru the middle of the old braided pipe. Could be a time saver and this way it will be double shielded and the fixings will already be in place, just a case of clipping it at each end and and attaching the rubber pipes onto the pump and tank.

 

I imagine I'm living in "La-La land" and more than likely the braided pipe will be too thin, impossible to push the pipe thru, but just a thought?