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2B Sliding Pillar 'knock Down And Rebuild'


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Well - hello again! Its been a while!


Thought i would add a few more photos. Really pleased with my progress of late. I have fabricated the cross-bracing for which my seats will be mounted to (eventually). I have also added some strength to this and braced it against the upper chassis rails.


Finally i have welded in some brackets which will hold the brake pipes through the body.




This is the view from under the car. You can see the cross members running from n/s to o/s. The rear ones i welded to the plates that the rear subframe is bolted to.


I have tried to mirror the shape of the upper chassis tubing out of angle that is running front to back. This is welded to the cross members for strength.


Lastly i welded in some support bracing to the upper chassis tubes. Under which i have drilled into this for my inner seat belt mounts. I am deliberating whether to weld in some captive nuts.




The seat are in - well i can kid myself!




These are the simple brackets i have welded in.




and yes she complained with being cold in the garage! :shok:

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Oh forgot! The view from above!




Right - next jobs.


I want to get the chassis painted up. Right, now for a quick rub down… :rofl:

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This all looks very good.

The person that built mine left the angle with the L shape pointing out of the car.

This lost the flatness of the underside. It now is the first thing that gets hit going over bumps.

I've had to raise the rear end by an inch with my shockers.

Just one poin on consideration.

Would it be feasible for you to fit double wishbones at the front instead of the sliding pillar.

It just might save you a future modification.

IMO they create better handling characteristics.

Tell me to shut it and mind my own if I'm out of order though.


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I would but it's really down to the finances. I saw a set of shocks come up on eBay a few months ago but lost out.


I think new I would be looking at £1k or more. Unless it can be done cheaper???

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Yes I agree. Unless used or old stock parts can be found, things do cost lots.

No idea what the link arms, brackets and bushes cost, but I've just bought a pair of new Gaz adjustable so without springs. They were around £220.

I will keep my eye open for you and give you the nod if I see anything.

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  • 1 month later...

So. The progress since my last update. I have stripped down the first sliding pillar assembly. I have also painted the chassis bar the places I still need to weld bits into.




Looking at what others had done and as I have decided (for now) to make the best of what I have, I have done the following;

  • Complete strip down - regrease - and rebuild
  • Increased the bottom threaded bolt to M12 8:8
  • Installed grease nipple to hub to grease inner hub for shaft
  • Sourced new bottom bump stop
  • Sourced new springs following what others have done on the forum to alleviate bump steer
  • Installed new adjustable mini shocks.

Just waiting for springs to come back from powder coaters in Chichester.


Had a trial fit of upright with old spring and it looks great! So chuffed bits are going back on the car!


Need to upload the pics from my other camera. To follow

Edited by Sid76
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Heres some more pics. First one is the new assembly on the car!




The next few are pics of the second upright before the strip down which i am hoping i will get done this week!








This is a pic i took once i had cleaned up and painted the hub from the nearside prior to re-assembly



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One piece of advice if you haven't already considered it is, strengthen the wing stays where they fasten to the hub or you will loose a mud guard on your 1st outing.


Mine both broke within 100 miles.


Quality work by the way. :clapping: :clapping:

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The bump steer is caused by the steering arm moving in an arc, & the hub

moving in a straight line.

I minimised the effect by re-positionin the rack (higher I think?)

It didnt get rid of it, but did improve it a lot.

To see the problem, put the wheels on glossy magazines (your choice!)

& bounce up & down on the front. You will see the wheels toe out, then toe in again.

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Thanks Bob. What did you mount the rack on? When I pulled mine apart it was originally packed out is the best way I could describe it with small bits (look like off cuts) of metal about 50mm thick x 2.


I've seen a post on here (but forgotten where??? 😳) where someone mounted there's on some thick pieces of alloy (that's what it looks like).

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Those small bits of off cuts are what came with the kit as "Rack spacers"


We all had them but I thought most through them away!!


I had 2 blocks machined with holes in to allow the "U" bolts to go through and the rack sat on top.



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Thanks to you both and for wracking the grey matter!


I'll do some digging locally. If I can find the thread with the pics on the forum I will print them off and see if I can get something made that's similar.


Can you remember a ball park figure of how much it cost you to gets yours fabricated?


Thanks again. 😊

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Hi Sid


I have an old photo which you can just make out the ally blocks/ spacers mine had fitted (before I started the rebuild).

Also have a look at the original info I have previously posted on Sliding pillars as that will give you loads of tips and pointers on what you should look out for.




Looking good by the way :acute:

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Hi Sid - Really enjoying reading your build thread, great work so far!


If you have the weird upside down LHD Metro steering rack thing - then mine came with the same thing fitted which included those alloy spacers. I'm positive I still have them so if you want them, drop me your postal address and I'll post them out to you.


I just couldn't cope with the fact that Metro track rod ends are totally the wrong taper to fit into the modded sierra hubs that our sliding pillar cars came with. So I bought a recon Sierra rack (which is far too wide) and had the steering arms machined down and re-threaded and used Sierra track rod ends that fit the hubs properly.




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