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Engine Paint


jaimo

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On the other hand -- if your under-bonnet is just functional -- Smooth Hammerite. Florin's coat of black is nearly 4 years & 40,000 miles old & still O.K Block temperature should not get hot enough to need a high temp paint, & it's one coat.

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Guest 2b cruising

If you use the same prep as the derusting kit, ie, degreaser and zinc coating they use, you won't have any problem.

Alternatively use their etching primer.

If clean enough you can use direct onto casting.

As you know Bob, it depends on how much of a perfectionist yo are, as to the standard that you work to.

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Guest mcramsay

Por15 sticks to rust better than it does fresh metal, in fact fresh metal takes a lot more prepping to get it to stick well. The basics are the same when painting, clean off all loose rust, use the marine clean (Por 15 degreasing agent) and get rid of any oil/grease, wash the material off, then etch prime with the Por 15 zinc etch. Wash off the excess liquid and dry. Then finally paint. I hand painted my chassis with it and it came out great, self levelling so no brush marks what so ever. I have no experience with spraying it.

 

It's expensive, and to do it right it's time consuming, but it goes hard as a rock and you won't ever get rust come back under the paint

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Por15 sticks to rust better than it does fresh metal, in fact fresh metal takes a lot more prepping to get it to stick well.

That's why traction engine builders of old would leave a finished machine out in the weather for a few days -- the micro rust is natures surface etching.

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Rumour has it that BMW race engine blocks were left out in the yard to weather

for a month or 2 before being finish machined. The theory was that

any stresses would have been evenly distributed and that the rust dimples would retain oil.

 

http://www.enginelabs.com/news/engine-myth-urinating-on-cylinder-block-improves-durability/

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