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Terminal Split?


alanh65

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just to give an update on this.

 

The repair / reinforcing at the front is very nearly done. I didn't think there was any need to over complicate anything so decided upon a steel inner beam bolted to the existing stainless beam and in turn bolted to the tub of the car.

 

Inner beam and brackets being painted;

CAF597F1-CBA0-4D8B-889E-EE7694C9FB10_zps

 

 

Close up of the inner bracket. These are designed to bolt the steel beam to the tub rail and outer tub skin;

A3CBB82D-ECE5-42A8-922B-942548619770_zps

 

 

red anodised load spreading washers on the outside of the tub connecting to the brackets;

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Inner bracket connecting the tub to the beam.....as well as these brackets bolting to the outer skin of the tub, they also fix onto the folded inner rail of the tub (strong point)

E90F543A-2303-414D-9CDE-F889942A3534_zps

 

 

Steal inner beam bolted in situ;

BFE2A49B-2F7D-4E83-BAA9-66A1513004D9_zps

 

 

Top view of the beam wit the inner beam bolted in (plenty of load spreading plates);

E690FDD8-6833-4A5C-A668-6DE4AB557F8A_zps

 

Next job is reassembly of the pivot arms, shocks etc....and then onto the tie-bars.

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Looking good! Can I ask what the tube is for that is coming out of the top of the original beam assembly as mine doesn't have that.

Thanks :)

It's like a tubular bumper bar that runs down from the suspension beam, forward and then across the front-underside of the nosecone......you can just about see the rest of it in the last photo (left side of the picture). To be honest, I havnt seen many with it either.

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Ok, not seen this before. My bumper bar is in stainless and runs just underneath the nosecone and runs back to the underneath of the monocoque. Bolted to the monocoque with large spreader plates. Don't think it will do anything in the event of a low speed shunt other than damage the monocoque!!!

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The bumper bar below the nosecone was something produced by robin hood to satisfy the SVA requirement that there must be a chassis member forward of the steering rack to reduce injuries in accidents. Pre-SVA cars wont have this.

Edited by Grim
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The bumper bar came in 2 evolutions, the first was a bolt on version added to the kit probably to help pre sva cars pass the sva, welded in version was for later monocoques sold after sva introduction.

Steamer I hope you keep the plans for the modifications if others need a diy solution

Edited by Snapperpaul
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  • 2 weeks later...

Tie Bar modification should be finished tonight and ready for painting.

 

As with all the other Tie Bar mods I've done, I've used the outer arms of the original ARB. For anyone thinking of doing the same, here is a couple of pointers;

 

The first thing to do is to unbolt the large nuts (24mm spanner / socket) from the ends of the arms before you cut the ARB. This is because the nuts are most likely rusted up and need some persuading to get them to spin.

 

Then cut the ARB arms off before the bend. Because the ARB is extremely hard, it's simply a case of slow and steady with an angry grinder.

post-8984-0-80161900-1328523871_zps5zotq

 

 

The newly cut end of the ARB arm needs drilling and tapping M12 for a rose joint. Because the ARM is hard, it needs heating up to (cherry red to orange) and then allowed to cool down as slowly as possible. This softens the metal local to the end of the ARB so you should be able to drill about 40mm into the ARB before reaching hard metal.

94DD051C-5C59-4A28-911A-F9DAEABD3E3D_zps

 

 

 

Even with the ARB softened, you still need a good Pillar drill and decent drill bits.

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All being well, the full front end rebuild should begin this weekend

Edited by steamer
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Well that's another hood finished and ready for the road!!

 

With all the strengthening done at the front end, I felt the rear end of the engine bay needed looking.

 

The drivers-side rear engine bay corner has the pedal well secured over the corner joint of the tub and so no strengthens is needed here.

 

The passenger-side rear engine bay corner (known for cracking) had cracked and someone has drilled the end of the crack to (successfully) stop the crack going any further.

To strengthen this corner, I fabricated a bracket out of 4mm stainless tig welded together.

 

image_zpsw30qke2s.jpeg

 

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A little bit too much heat on this weld....

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And here it is fitted (the pink trainers are not mine, they belong my young apprentice)

image_zpspajno23r.jpeg

 

The bracket is bolted with thick plates on the backside. Time to send the young apprentice down the foot well to hold the spanner whilst I tighten from the other side.....

image_zpszncig9rq.png

 

And there we have it, the RedSeven sticker is fitted marking the end of another project...

image_zpsnllaf6lo.jpeg

 

image_zps1vwn4tqj.jpeg

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